My "tentative" AR build idea...opinions?

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ANDROTAZ

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I've been in the market for an AR-15 for a little while now, and have recently decided to build it custom, the way I want it. After plenty of researching, I've come up with what I think I'm gonna do, and I'd like some input and feedback on it.

1) Mid-length A4 Upper from Rock River Arms (options - std. mid-length handguard, chrome-lined lightweight 1:9 barrel, A2 flash hider/front sight, std. latch) - $495.00

2) Lower parts kit from Rock River Arms (std. pistol grip, RRA 2-stage trigger) - $180.00

3) Stripped lower from somewhere local; as far as I know, a lower is a lower, right?

4) I'll probably get a 6-position stock.

5) Lastly, for now, I plan on getting a 40L low-profile flip-up rear sight. When I have the extra cash, I'll mount an EOTech on there.

Looks like I'm looking at around 900 bucks dropped on this (before the optics). How does all this sound to you guys? Am I forgetting anything?
 
you might want to get a full length, mid-length parts are sometimes hard to find, especially if you dont want to order online and wait for shipping.

if buying an RRA upper, get an RRA lower.

pay the little extra for the ergo grip, or get the magpul MIAD grip.
 
Personally, I like the mid length length. My AR-10 is, and I love it. Don't worry about parts for it.. they're still out there!

I second the opinion that you should get a better grip right out of the gate. You're just going to end up taking the standard grip off, and then it's useless. I have one Ergo sure-grip, and several Hogues. Try a Hogue... they rock. They make it comfy to hold, shoot, and they're nice a grippy, so you have good confidence in your grip.
 
Thanks for all the input, fellas. It'll be mostly just for plinking and target shooting for fun. That said, I still want a quality rifle...I just mean that I don't exactly need the very TOP of the line in everything.

I'll definitely look into the other grips...now y'all have me wondering whether to get mid-length or full size though. This first one I kinda wanted a more "carbine-like" rifle with an EOTech, and later planned on building another, longer one with a scope, more suited for longer-distance shooting and varminting.

Any more input?
 
if you want to spend a bit less for a still quality weapon, go for a stag arms lower (about $60 cheaper than RRA) and a stag upper (about the same price as RRA, maybe less).

for your first AR get a CAR length (also a bit cheaper), you dont really need a full/mid length unless your doing longer distance shooting (>200 yards).

also, i wouldnt get the 2 stage trigger, but thats just me.

there are lots of options, its really your call.
 
In terms of midlength accessories, what would you WANT to put on it? If you're not going to "tacti-cool" it, then you're probably going to leave the plastic handguards on it. I have a rail system on my rifle length 5.56 AR, and it's bulky. I like the midlength OEM handguards on my .308 AR. I swapped out the furniture on it for OD furniture, and put a swivel on the handguard so I could mount a bipod. I may put a short rail on the underside, too, so as put a vertical grip on it.... I love the vertical front grip on my 5.56.
 
Honestly, I don't plan to go all "tacti-cool" with this one. I plan on leaving the plastic handguards. The only thing I really want to put on there is an EOTech. I guess I'll probably go with the carbine length instead of the mid-length...I just can't decide what companies to go with.

I initially was all set on RRA, but the Stag upper comes with a rear sight already (MI ERS as well as standard front post) and a chrome-lined barrel. I don't know, however, if the barrel is lightweight - the RRA one has that option. From what I understand a heavy barrel isn't really necessary here. And whatever company I go with for the upper, I'll probably go with the same for the stripped lower.

Another question I have is this: will the non-low profile rear flip sight and post front sight hinder the mounting of/vision through the EOTech I'll eventually mount?

God, this is making my head hurt.
 
Another question I have is this: will the non-low profile rear flip sight and post front sight hinder the mounting of/vision through the EOTech I'll eventually mount?
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It really depends on how high your rear sight is and which EoTech you buy. Also depending on how much rail the BUIS takes up the regular AA EoTech might be to long.
 
Another question I have is this: will the non-low profile rear flip sight and post front sight hinder the mounting of/vision through the EOTech I'll eventually mount?
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Out of the box the EOTech will co-witness with your fixed front and the rear when it's up. You wont even notice the front sight with the bright red reticle of the EOTech powered up. Some folks put a small riser under the EOTech so the irons are unobstructed and can be viewed through the lower third of the EOTech's sight window. If you're looking at an EOTech I'd strongly advise you to look at an Aimpoint too. I was going to get an EOTech, but after doing more research I realized the Aimpoint is a far better buy based on battery life and features for the price.

Also, in regards to barrels, do you know what weights/constructions of bullets you plan to shoot. The 1:9 twist will let you shoot the light construction very thin jacket varmint bullets of 55 grains & less, but will only stabilize up to a 69 grain projectile. A 1:7 twist bbl won't shoot those thin jacket light construction bullets (it'll still shoot 55gr FMJ fine though), but it will stabilize the really heavy (in 5.56 terms) 70 plus grain bullets. In a varmint carbine I'd go 1:9, but for a defensive or medium game carbine I'd go 1:7. Also, stainless steel or unlined 4150 carbon steel barrels are generally regarded as being slightly more accurate than chrome lined bbls. There are always exceptions, but most of your match barrels and varmint barrels are either stainless or unlined 4150. Hard chrome lined 4150 is a great choice for a defensive rifle or a plinker because it's easier to clean and is a bit more tolerant of being run dirty. Of course there are those exceptions where you may find a chromed bbl that's a tack driver. I've seen it in a Colt SP1 I used to own, and the bbl on the LMT that I'm breaking in right now is showing signs that it may be quite accurate as well.

Keep asking questions.
 
About the barrel - the thing is that I was planning on putting together the lower, but buying an already completed upper, just for simplicity reasons. This'll be my first "project" weapon, and I'm not sure about dealing with headspace and that sort of thing. That said, pretty much all of the uppers I can find are only either chrome-moly or chrome lined, and all 1:9. RRA does have a stainless, 1:8 option, but it's in .223 Wylde.

Man...lots of decisions to be made. I appreciate all the help.
 
personally i would go with that barrel in the 1/7 twist. it will allow you to shoot a larger array of bullet lengths out of it. 1/8 is also good for being able to shoot large array of bullet lengths out of it.


1/9 twist is great for everything from 45 to 69 grn bullets, and some people even claim shooting 75 grn bullets with good accuracy. so, it really depends on if you plan on a lot of relaoding or plinking and fun shooting with wally world ammo.

sorry if i am just causing more trouble.

brian


EDIT: with a little bit of reaserch on the net, it seeesm that some od the statement i made above is wrong. a 1/7 twist will shoot 52/ 53 macth grade bullets into tiny little holes. i say go for the 1/7 twist. i think its the best bet.

i erased the untrue comment made earlyier. brian
 
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IMO i wouldnt get a barrel chambered in .223, get any barrel in 5.56 before any in .223

reason being... a .223 will shoot through a 5.56 but not vise versa. dont know if you know that.
 
IMO i wouldnt get a barrel chambered in .223, get any barrel in 5.56 before any in .223

reason being... a .223 will shoot through a 5.56 but not vica versa. dont know if you know that.
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Second that unless your going to be only putting match grade .223 in it. Much wider choice in ammo with a 5.56 barrel.
 
dont worry. that specific rifle you want says it comes with a .223/5.56 chamber. i think that all RRA rifles are either 5.56, or wylde type chambers. which measn that you can shoot both .223 and 5.56 through them. BUT ITS ALWAYS BEST TO ONLY USE AMMO SPECFIED ON THE BARREL ITSELF!!!!!


brian
 
Thanks for all the replies. It'll likely be a little while before I get it all done...in college - gotta save up. I'll probably buy the lower, sights, stock, etc. first.
 
That said, pretty much all of the uppers I can find are only either chrome-moly or chrome lined, and all 1:9
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Most are. However, CMMG, Colt, and LMT offer 1:7 off the shelf. Even Rock River offers a 1:7 16" chrome lined lightweight http://rockriverarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=273 . You just have to specify the 1:7 twist bbl. when you do the upgrade to chrome lined. If they don't show it on an assembled upper on their website they should assemble your upper with it if you call in the order.
 
Don't make it too complicated. A flat-top MLGS 16" upper is a good choice. 9 twist is fine unless you have a specific need to shoot the heaviest ammo (75-77gr).

-z
 
Am I wrong or are not all lowers alike. I thought I heard somewhere that Colts had larger pin holes than every other manufacturers. Don't know for sure but you may want to check this out.
 
the larger pin hole is on late model colts. this is a non problem for any other lower out there. now, colt makes all their lowers with the same hole size. the old hole size can be fixed with a special offset pin. the thing that colt does different now, is that thay use a two pices pin and screw for the front pin. i guess just to be different. brian
 
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