Need help with 12ga. load, please.

[SIRVEYR666]

I've been reloading handgun loads for quite some time, and now I'm about to venture into shotshell reloading. I know that shotshell loads are VERY specific, so my question pertains to hull recognition. Most loads I've found are for the same 6 or so hull types. I've got a boatload of Winchester AA (red, smooth, high and low brass) and I've got quite a few Winchester (Western) Super X (red, very slight "ribbing", high and low brass). Both are 2 3/4". Where can I find photos of other hulls, so I know exactly what I've got . I'v got a pile of mixed Remington, too. Nearly all of these were field loads or trap loads.

 

[cloudcroft]

Well, I have to disagree a bit...

Contrary to popular belief, shotshell reloading is not that component-specific or complicated.

All I care about is identifying TWO types of hulls: Those with paper base wads (the only ones I've seen in that category are the lower-end field-load Federals) and those without (just about ALL the rest out there). Slightly more powder is used for the former type hulls, slightly less with the latter.

That's all there is to it.

Others here will disagree, but I still say it's pretty simple. And so the people at Lee Precision.

Been reloading hulls for decades on my Lee Load All. No problems yet and I'm not worried about any down the road.

Of course, that's just me...you do as YOU think best.

-- John D.

 

[Steve C]

Different case types have different volumes as do different brands. It is important to match load with case type and wad type and load exactly as the book says which includes primers and powder.

There are 2 basic types of shells cases, Compression formed and Polly formed. The compression formed are one piece and the base is integrated into the rest of the case. Compression formed cases are the best type of reloadable case and you can often get 10 or more reloads out of them before they crack or split. Winchester AA's, Remington STS, and Federal Gold Medal target loads are all compression formed type cases.

While you can load the cheaper polyformed cases that's found in inexpensive field loads I've found that they usually are only good for 1 reload and then the crimping portion of the case splits and will not crimp well for a second reload.

Its generally best to pick one type of shell to reload so you can limit the types of wads and the powder bushings to you need to buy. If you have more Winchester AA's than other types they are a good one to use. It really doesn't matter if it is high brass or low brass as long as the shell length is the same (ie. 2-3/4" or 3")as the internal volumes of the cases are identical, however most trap and skeet target loads use a 7 star crimp while hunting loads often use a 5 star. To get a good crimp you need to match the type of crimp to the shell that's being reloaded or you will get an unsatisfactory crimp.

I reload one basic shell now for most of my shotgun shooting which is a 2-3/4" AA shell with 1-1/8 oz 3 dram trap load which is also excelent for quail and dove which are the only upland birds to hunt in AZ. In my younger years I also loaded a 1-5/8oz baby magnum in the same case for ducks and 1-1/4oz field load for pheasants. Each of these loads had a particular wad, powder and bushing to throw the charge.

My suggestion is to pick out the AA's and segregate them by crimp and maybe ht of brass if you want a couple different loads in shells that are easily identifiable. Pick a powder, bushing, wad and primer for the load type you want from a manual. Toss the rest of the shells into the recycle or if you have enough of another brand of compression formed case worth keeping then keep them seperate.

 

[snuffy]

Well, I have to disagree a bit...

Contrary to popular belief, shotshell reloading is not that component-specific or complicated.

I read an article once where a balistision,(SP?), went into why we should follow specific recipes when loading shotgun shells. He took a specific load from a respected manual, put it through a pressure gun. It performed whithin a couple hundred PSI of what was specified. It was a common type of hull, with everyday type of components. He then substituted ONLY THE PRIMER. The PSI went nuts, some dropping to where the velocity would have only been 900 FPS, others went to over 13,000 PSI! Now realize that the top pressure limit for 12 Ga. 2 3/4 inch shells is 11,500 PSI. Would that 13,000 PSI load have burst a modern shotgun? No, but it sure wouldn't do it much good. And the empty hulls would be cooked!

Again he went with the specified load, but this time only substituted the WAD. Again the pressures went nuts.

As for your question about hull identification, the absoulute best sorce for identifying hulls is in the Lyman shotshell handbook, the bible for shotgunners.

What SteveC said is good info. I routinely would load my trap/skeet/sporting clays loads with 7.5,8's, or 9's. But when I went bunnyhunting or for pheasants, I simply changed to 6's or 5's with the same powder/wad/hulls. You DON'T NEED high velocity to cleanly kill small game, just bigger shot.

 

[byf43]

As for your question about hull identification, the absoulute best sorce for identifying hulls is in the Lyman shotshell handbook, the bible for shotgunners.

I routinely would load my trap/skeet/sporting clays loads with 7.5,8's, or 9's. But when I went bunnyhunting or for pheasants, I simply changed to 6's or 5's with the same powder/wad/hulls. You DON'T NEED high velocity to cleanly kill small game, just bigger shot.

snuffy is spot on!!!!!

+10 million!!!!!

I load ONE powder. ONE charge.
18 gr. Red Dot...1-1/8 oz shot.
#7-1/2 shot to #9 shot for clay birds
#5 shot for pheasant.

And yes, I'm a dinosaur. I still have a couple of small wooden crates full of Peters 'Blue Magic' hulls. (They load the same as the OLD AA cases, and last a LOT longer!)

 

[Grayrock]

I read an article once where a balistision,(SP?), went into why we should follow specific recipes when loading shotgun shells.

I would like to read that article. Where can I find it?

 

[JackM]

There's tables in Lyman #4 on pressure changes with primer and wad changes and they are impressive. It's got the shell identification diagrams too, as mentioned above. Lyman has announced the #5 shotshell reloading manual, but I don't know if it's on the shelves yet.

Bye
Jack

 

[cloudcroft]

I said others will disagree (we had this same discussion some time ago here). And yeah, I know, I'm the only one who does this.

But in all the years I have, I've never seen any "cooked" or otherwise abnormal cases come out of ANY of my shotguns.

I just don't worry about it because it's a non-issue.

-- John D.

 

[Grayrock]

I like your thinking, Cloudcroft. I have also been reloading .45 Colt and obsessed over loading all the same headstamps, and keeping track of once fired brass and twice fired brass, etc. It made my head hurt so I stopped. Now, if it looks good, I'll reload it.

 

[Steve C]

I load ONE powder. ONE charge.
18 gr. Red Dot...1-1/8 oz shot.

Right on byf43. This is the same load I too have been using for the last 30 years. It translates well into other cases and wad combinations and is a 3 dram to 3-1/4 dram load depending upon wad and hull used. Usually I've used Red Versalite wads (now Hornady) but at times I've used Clay Busters, WAA12's and Eclips wads with the appropriate hulls. When I was shooting quite a bit of trap I liked Federal Paper shells.