New AR, first round hangs.

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QUOTE: Here is what do know, the bolt is not overiding. It is firmly pushing back of the case. Pushing the forward assist sends the round into the chamber, bolt into battery, and the rifle fires. The rifle runs fine after the first round is in. This is only happening on the first round. Not a mag issue. Unless 11 magazines ranging from new commercial, new GI, to very well used GI who went through both Iraq and Afghanistan all have the same flaw. No mag with slow manual cycle creates no hang ups. Manual cycling doesn't feel as smooth as used guns.

If it were bad lips, bore, assembly, the rifle would stop during firing. This isn't the case. Gun cycles 100% under recoil.

It seems there is too much drag for inertia to overcome or the spring isn't providing enough force to counter the drag of the bolt and magazine together.
I think it is one of two things, or both. Poor polish/over coating of bolt carrier or weak recoil spring. If spring, a wolfe extra power spring should do the trick but I worry short stroking. If rough finish, gut should break it but I also wonder about helping that along.

I see no reason to ditch a rifle that otherwise works as intended. Logic and mechanics will sort it out. Why take the easy road?[/QUOTE]

I had one kit build that had an out-of-spec upper receiver. The bore that the bolt carrier slides in was axially misaligned to one side--the bolt carrier did not slide straight along the centerline of the buffer tube. Once it was firing it was OK because the action was violent enough make the gun function. When hand cycling the bolt carrier would wedge itself against the inside of the buffer tube and stick in the rearward position. "Reverse-mortaring" the gun by driving the muzzle down onto a block of wood was enough to dislodge it and the bolt would slam into battery. Replacing the upper after finally figuring out what was wrong made it function correctly.
I'm NOT saying your upper is bad, I'm saying the possibility exists that the carrier may be encountering drag/resistance inside the buffer tube. You can check it by removing the buffer and spring and re-assembling the gun with JUST THE CARRIER. (no bolt) Tilt the muzzle skyward and back down and the bolt carrier should slide easily back and forth without resistance.
I know it sounds crazy but what have you got to lose?
 
Also every one of my carbines run best with the Wollf springs and H2 buffers. They will still function with cheap russian ammo without short-stroking.

3 of these are Deltons
 
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Ok, sounds like a good idea. Opened the rifle, removed buffer and spring. Removed bolt from carrier. Inserted carrier into upper without the charging handle even, closed rifle, set rear pin. Gravity will slide carrier all the way for and aft with a slight nudge when the carrier is contacting the hammer.

Someone else try this please. Does your carrier contact the hammer?
 
Ok, sounds like a good idea. Opened the rifle, removed buffer and spring. Removed bolt from carrier. Inserted carrier into upper without the charging handle even, closed rifle, set rear pin. Gravity will slide carrier all the way for and aft with a slight nudge when the carrier is contacting the hammer.

Someone else try this please. Does your carrier contact the hammer?
I think it should have light contact with hammer, but I'm currently about 200 miles offshore with no access to any of my weapons for quite a while.

With the carrier contacting the hammer, can you stick something in the ejection port and push the hammer down any farther? Or is it at the limit of its travel and stopped solid? maybe take a small screwdriver and pry VERY GENTLY down on the carrier and look for movement against hammer spring pressure. Your description sounds like it's really OK but anything's possible. Be sure to put a little oil on the bottom of the carrier where the hammer slides too.

One more question---if you are hand-cycling the action and manage to get the bolt closed on that troublesome first round, will the next round feed OK by hand or will it hang up in a similar manner? Have you even tried hand-cycling more than 1 round? What about the third round? 4th? etc

I'm running out of possibilities, especially with no gun of my own at hand to give me ideas. If you have one of the Wolff extra power springs, maybe in another gun, I'd just stick it in there and see what happens.
 
No, hadn't tried cycling more than one. No other AR's on hand. Kind of wish there were. I would swap upper and lowers to see what would happen.
 
Was mainly wondering if feeding from both sides of the magazine had the same results or was the problem only from ONE side of the mag.
If it's always from the same side there may be some glitch with the feed ramp on that side.
 
Was mainly wondering if feeding from both sides of the magazine had the same results or was the problem only from ONE side of the mag.
If it's always from the same side there may be some glitch with the feed ramp on that side.
Oh, that I can answer. Tan and green followers are opposite each other for some reason. So ya, happens on L and R side.
 
I would say it should be broken in with 300 rds thru it, but maybe just needs more lead downrange to smooth everything up some more.

This thing doesn't have a BAD lever installed does it? The symptoms don't fit, just a WAG.
 
No, no BAD lever. Bone stock.

That was my guess, keep running it and break it in more. Figuring maybe polishing and finish took a dive in the rush to catch up with demand not to mention it is a budget rifle.

I am considering now marking the mating surface of the BCG and hammer the using the "fine" stone to buff them as well as the 4 BCG rails where I can already see some wear marks on the finish. I ran my finger over the tube, upper and all moving parts feeling for burrs, not finding any.
 
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Still have no idea what the issue was, WAS. Didn't do any of the buffing I was thinking but had some spare time this morning. Went and dropped 100 rds at the range. First round hung but then on first mag change the bolt closed. Second change, closed. Loaded up a bunch of different mags, closed every time when hitting the release. Looks like the fix was to just shoot it more. Very happy.
 
No, no m4 feed ramps, but the round hangs before the ramps. Have not tried other than GI mags. Ammo tried is PMC xp193, Rem 223, Norinco brass 55gr 223, WPA steel, Tula steel, Herters steel, and green-tip GI. All new, no reloads yet.

Am giving the mags a "love tap" like all good GI's should.

Rifle is a DT Sport. https://www.del-ton.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DTSPORT
So a buddy of mine a while back had a Del-ton and had the same issues. We called Del-ton and they talked about a "break in period" after about 500rds we didn't have anymore issues. Lately I've put together about 6 Del-ton Kits with 1:7 barrels and mid-length gas systems and none of my "customers" have reported any issues.

Glad to see it's working
 
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