New Cimarron 1860 Henry

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Last week I ordered a Cimarron Firearms (made by Uberti) 1860 Henry Civil War model from Buffalo Arms. It arrived at my FFL on Tuesday and I picked it up today. It's chambered for .44-40, for which I already handload for use in my Cimarron 1873 Sporting Rifle.

Uberti 1860 Henry R.jpg


Some nice wood and the rear sling swivel:

Uberti 1860 Henry L.jpg


No butt trap for a cleaning rod:

butt.jpg

German silver front sight blade, and the forward sling attachment:

front-sight.jpg

Facsimile of an original advertisement for the Henry rifle:

1860 Henry advertisement.jpg

That's some puffery.

Like my other Ubertis, the overall fit and finish is excellent. Comparing it side by side with my 1873, it's about a pound heavier and has more drop in the stock.

I'm hoping to shoot it this weekend and will post a range report.
 
You need the proper sling for that rifle, since it has the military sling swivels. Look at this one: http://www.ssfirearms.com/proddetail.asp?prod=L36&cat=52
http://www.ssfirearms.com/proddetail.asp?prod=L36&cat=52
The hook goes through the staple on the gun's barrel. (There are better hooks available than the one supplied by S&S with this sling, but you get the general idea.) (The hook is supposed to be attached to the button end of the sling, plus there is supposed to be one leather keeper. In these respects the S&S picture is incorrect. The S&S product is a good starting point, but it needs to be "defarbed.")

It's strange that your rifle doesn't have the trap in the butt for the jointed cleaning rod. My Uberti Henry does. There is also a specific Henry cleaning rod that is supposed to fit in there.

Gloves are a must if you're going to be doing extended shooting with that rifle. Otherwise you're going to burn your hand. Also, you have to remember to move your hand as the follower comes down the magazine tube.

When I was doing Civil War reenacting, it was a bit of a problem to make blanks that would function through that action. To get the required overall cartridge length, I had to use cut down .444 Marlin brass sized for .44-40. Regular .44-40 blanks are too short.
 
Ahhhh, beeeeeeautiful rifle! Makes me want one! Yikes...I must have caught the disease!
I have several leveractions, a Uberti 1873 saddlering carbinen in .44-40 (with butt trap and repro cleaning rod), 1894AE in .30-30, Browning 1892 in .44 mag, Miroku Winchester 1892 takedown in .32-20, and a Uberti Colt's Burgess 1883 carbine in .44-40. The Burgess has no butt trap ..... (the 1873 is the only one I have that does) but I don't know if originals did or not.
I wonder if leaving but traps out is a cost saving measure .... but I don't believe all Winchester lever guns had them anyway.

Enjoy your new rifke. I am soooooooooo jealous!:D
 
My rear sling swivel came apart and I had to remove it from the stock to replace the little circlip fastener that holds it together. Just be aware. Does yours have U.S. stamped on the side of the receiver? If not, that might be why there’s no trapdoor in the butt. Just a wild guess.
My Uberti 1860 is by far my favorite rifle. Congratulations on a beautiful rifle.
 
@Jimster It is "US" marked on the receiver and although it didn't show up in any of my pictures, the right side of the stock bears an inspector's cartouche. I was surprised at the lack of a trapdoor on the butt. I suppose it's possible that the wrong buttplate got mounted at the factory. I plan to remove it at some point and see if the stock is drilled.
 
Howdy

I have been using my Uberti Iron Frame 1860 44-40 Henry as my main match rifle in CAS for close to ten years now.

Other than the day it was proofed at the factory, it has never seen any Smokeless powder, I only shoot it with Black Powder cartridges.

Yes, you might need a glove on your left hand, especially if you load up any Black Powder rounds, on a hot summer day the barrel gets really hot. After ten quick rounds it is too hot for me to hold onto.

Henry07_zps6828738f.jpg




Mine does not have the cleaning rod pocket in the stock either, but that may be because it is the Iron Frame model. Don't really know. I bought this model because it was on sale at Dixie Gunworks at the time for a steep discount. Never really cared for brass framed guns anyway. The first 400 or so Henry rifles produced by the New Haven Arms Company had iron frames. Most likely because some of the equipment to make parts had not shown up at the factory yet, so Oliver Winchester contracted out for some of the parts. Winchester wanted the frames made of brass, really gunmetal, a form of bronze, because he hoped to win military contracts and felt bronze would stand up better than iron to the salt air if he ever won any contracts with the Navy. I was originally planning to have the frame on mine blued, but then I found out that some of the original Iron frames were Case Hardened, so I left it alone.

Two things: Never drop rounds straight down the magazine. Hold the rifle at an angle and allow the rounds to trickle gently down the magazine.

And always keep a firm grasp on the follower tab under the magazine. Never allow it to slip out of your hand and slam down on a column of cartridges. Bad things can and have happened. That little piece of rubber in the follower won't provide enough cushioning to prevent a discharge in the magazine.

Like all lever guns, only use Round Nosed Flat Point bullets, or Truncated Cone bullets. No pointy bullets.

When I am loading mine, I wrap my left hand around the barrel just below the opening in the magazine. That way if the follower somehow gets knocked loose, it will smack into my hand instead of into the column of cartridges. Yes, it hurts, but it's better than rounds firing in the magazine.

I don't have to do the Henry Hop with mine because I keep my left hand on the barrel just in front of the frame. I use a spacer stick that allows me to load ten rounds, we never need more than ten in CAS. With the spacer stick behind the cartridges, the follower tab never quite reaches my hand. I made my spacer stick from a piece of 1/2" dowel.

stick02.jpg




After I load ten rounds I put in the spacer stick.

stick03.jpg




After the tenth round is fired, the spacer stick keeps the tab about four inches away from the frame, so I never have to do the Henry Hop.

stick04.jpg




I changed out the factory sight on my Henry for a Buckhorn sight sold by Track of the Wolf. The sight dovetail is too close to the frame to allow a standard Marbles buckorn sight to be mounted there.

trackofthewolfrearsight02.jpg
 
I loaded up 100 .44 Henry Flat-equivalent cartridges today. In Starline brass, I loaded 28 grains of 3Fg Goex, 0.5cc of cornmeal filler, and an Accurate 43-215C bullet, 219 grains as it drops from my mold when cast of 20:1 lead:tin alloy. Primers are CCI No.300 LPPs.

Some of them are in this picture. The rounds with the bullet seated still need to go through my Lee factory crimp die. The rounds in the top three rows show the cornmeal filler, which prevents there from being any air space between the powder charge and the base of the bullet.

44WCF_Henry_Loads.jpg

I should be shooting the rifle tomorrow.
 
That’s a cool idea. Replicating the original round never occurred to me.
 
That’s a cool idea. Replicating the original round never occurred to me.

If you don't mind smokeless powder, the Black Hills .44-40 cowboy loads pretty much duplicate .44 Henry ballistics, as do the Winchester X4440 200 grain JSPs.

OTH, if you want to duplicate original .44-40 ballistics you need to either handload or get the Buffalo Bore "heavy" .44-40s.
 
Driftwood

Great tutorial and photos on the Henry! Must say I like them both (brass and iron frame), especially the color case hardening on the frame.
 
I got to shoot the rifle yesterday. First 10 shots, taken with the .44 Henry-equivalent loads, from about 40 - 45 yards offhand:

first-10-shots.jpg

I put rounds through it, 50 of the .44 Henry-equivalent loads, and 50 loaded with 35 grains of Goex 3Fg. Cleanup was a snap, requiring only about 10 -12 patches wet with a Ballistol/water mix. No fouling got into the action, which is slicking up nicely. Here's 10 shots with the full-power .44 WCF loads:



Overall, the rifle shot accurately, functioned well and the action is smoothing up nicely, and in general was a blast to shoot for my friends and I.
 
By the way, I bought some copper tube to make a few “speed loaders” for my Henry. I stole the idea from the Spencer loading tubes.
 
By the way, I bought some copper tube to make a few “speed loaders” for my Henry. I stole the idea from the Spencer loading tubes.

Interesting. Just be careful about dropping a bunch of rounds down the tube en masse. If you have a high primer -- kaboom.
 
I for sure hold the rifle at an angle to slow the speed of the dropping cartridges. I also don’t let the follower slam down onto the cartridges. Definitely a unique firearm.
 
Howdy Again

A lot of guys are interested in duplicating the old 44 Henry Rimfire loads. Some go to the extent of finding a relatively rare 44 Special rifle, just so they can load it with a bit less powder.

Interestingly enough, when Navy Arms first imported the Henry rifle from Italy, some were chambered for the 44 Henry Rimfire round. But since the round had not been commercially available for many years, the decision was made to chamber them for 44-40 and 45 Colt, since those rounds were still commercially available. The length of the carrier of the original Henry rifles was not long enough for the longer 44-40 and 45 Colt rounds, so the carrier of the reproductions had to be made a little bit longer. This also necessitated stretching frame slightly in the area of the carrier to accommodate the slightly longer carrier. If you ever get a chance to examine an original 1860 Henry take a really close look at the carrier and frame and you will see what I mean. Next time I see one I will take a measurement.

Personally I have never quite understood the desire for the less powerful round. The frames of the modern reproductions are proofed for modern rounds, and are perfectly fine to shoot all day long with SAAMI spec loads. Just don't try to hot rod them or you will stretch something. In his book Shooting Lever Guns of the Old West, Mike Venturino relates an incident of that happening with a brass framed Henry. But they are fine with SAMMI spec loads.

The other justification for using a shorter round is to duplicate the original magazine capacity of 15 rounds. Twelve or thirteen rounds (I don't really remember now) is the magazine capacity of my 44-40 Henry, and that is plenty for me. Plus, I just stuff my rounds with powder, I don't need to fuss with fillers. Much simpler.

In this photo, left to right the cartridges are 44-40, 44 Henry Rimfire, 44 S&W American, 44 Russian, 44 Colt, 44 Special, and 45 Colt. You can see why the originals had a bit more magazine capacity.

44-40%2044henry%2044am%2044russian%2044colt%2044sp%2045colt_zpsgecm7dda.jpg


P.S. Nice video. I noticed you did the Henry Hop at one point. Did you feel the follower tab contact your hand? I also notice you are keeping your left hand way back near the frame like I do. If you try a spacer stick like mine, you probably will not need to do the hop, because the follower tab will never quite reach your hand. Of course with my spacer stick, my magazine capacity is down to 10 rounds, which is all I need for CAS.
 
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@Driftwood Johnson as always, an informative post.

I recall seeing the Navy Arms Henry rifles in .44 rimfire listed in the back of Gun Digest back in the early 80s.

My main reason for loading up some .44 Henry-equivalent loads was curiosity. I wanted to see how they'd shoot, both accuracy-wise and recoil-wise, compared with full .44 WCF loads. However, I noticed that the cases were a bit cleaner. I soaked them all in soapy water for about 24 hours and the ones loaded with 28 grains are noticeably cleaner inside than those loaded with 35 grains. All are going into my tumbler, however.

I felt the follower contact my hand. I might mess around with a spacer stick.
 
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