New Colt Night Cobra yoke / cylinder disassembly?

[JRadice45]

Hey Folks, I just picked up a new colt night cobra. Does anyone know how to separate the cylinder from the yoke once the yoke is removed from the frame? I'm assuming I must unscrew the extractor rod from the extractor while using empty cases in the cylinder for support.

I'm familiar with S&W and their use of left hand threads for the extractor rod into the extractor.

Are the new colts the same or do they use standard threads for the extractor rod into the extractor?

Obligatory photo of the new blaster.

 

[Project355]

Don't Colts operate in the opposite directionthan a Smith? Aren't Colts right-hand wheelers as opposed to left-hand wheelers

 

[wiscoaster]

Just wondering ... because I'm ignorant ... why are you "using empty cases in the cylinder for support"? Never done that with my S&W's. But I'm shopping for a Colt Police Positive (which would be my first Colt revolver), so please educate me.

 

[Project355]

Standard practice to not let star rip out cylinder hole

 

[wiscoaster]

Standard practice to not let star rip out cylinder hole

Just with Colts? Never had even a hint of that problem with my S&W's. Though I suppose if the extractor was seized ....

 

[JRadice45]

Yes, This colt cylinder rotates Clockwise. I was always taught to support the extractor with a tool designed for the job or empty brass in a pinch so the extractor cannot twist out of the cylinder and damage the corresponding interface between the two.

There doesn't appear to be any cylinder stop lug on the frame of the colt so I'm assuming once the yoke comes out of the frame, the cylinder wont come loose of the yoke until the extractor rod is unthreaded from the extractor. Based on the lack of a cylinder stop lug on the frame and the knurling on the tip of the extractor rod I'm not imagining how the cylinder comes off the yoke without taking apart the cylinder / yoke assembly..

 

[BBBBill]

why are you "using empty cases in the cylinder for support"?

Any time you disassemble/reassemble a revolver cylinder you need to provide some support to the extractor. Otherwise it can be damaged. Spent rounds are fine or you can a tool sold by Brownells, or at least used to be sold by them. Basically two brass rods turned to cartridge case diameter attached to a flat bar at a set distance apart so that they drop into two chambers. Either the spent cases or the tool keep the extractor from twisting and damaging the ejector and/or cylinder while you turn out the ejector rod.

 

[wiscoaster]

Any time you disassemble/reassemble a revolver cylinder you need to provide some support to the extractor. Otherwise it can be damaged.

Makes sense to me, and I'll certainly do that. Funny though, I don't remember any disassembly YouTube video using that method. Could have been my memory, though. I guess I was just lucky my extractor rods weren't that tight. I'll use snap caps.

 

[BBBBill]

Funny though, I don't remember any disassembly YouTube video using that method.

I did a quick search and you are correct. I guess that is why it's sometimes called the errornet! At any rate the tool, which was available for many years through Brownells and Midway does not seem to be available anymore. The Kuhnhausen double action revolver manuals all show it in use and insist that it or spent cases be used. Failing to do so can bend or break the ejector guide pins on older S&Ws. That is the first thing that will show failure, but by no means the only thing. A gun that has a bunch of carbon fouling in the threads will be much harder to break loose.

 

[dfariswheel]

Putting three empty cases in most any DA revolver when unscrewing an ejector rod is the correct procedure, including Colt and S&W.
The empty cases support the ejector and prevent damaging the splines on the ejector rod or the cylinder.

I always had at least three unprimed cases cut off about half way on my bench to use.

The latest Colt's disassemble like the post-1970's Colt's in that the ejector rod is unscrewed to disassemble the cylinder.
The older Colt's required unscrewing the ejector itself, and that's something you only want to do when you have no other choice.
Those older assemblies are easy to damage.

If in doubt about which type you have, put the three cases in the chambers, grip the rod head and attempt to unscrew it.

If the rod head unscrews from the rod, it's the old type that requires unscrewing the ejector.
If the entire one-piece rod unscrews it's the new type, which is much easier to work with.

 

[JRadice45]

Great, That confirms my suspicions - Thanks dfariswheel.

Follow up question, am I going to turn the ejector rod counter clockwise, or clockwise to unscrew it?

 

[JRadice45]

Well, my gun answered my question adlfter shooting a few cylinders full today. The ejector rod got stuck in the yoke a few times and ended up becoming loose. Good news is I know it is threaded like a standard fastener (clockwise tightens it right up), bad news is I have to call Colt to see if they will send me parts or an RMA

 

[JRadice45]

Update, Colt had it for a little over 5 weeks. They replaced the ejector rod, and adjusted the cylinder to factory specs. Ejector rod no longer sticks, but the excessive endshake is still there. I shot it a bunch today and the only time the cylinder would bind up is when I would get powder under the extractor.

 

[BBBBill]

Ejector rod no longer sticks, but the excessive endshake is still there

I've not had a chance to examine one of the new Colt revolvers so I don't know how much they have in common with the older ones. Folks that work on revolvers often use shimms to remove excessive yoke and cylinder endshake. I've used them many times over the years on guns that came across my bench. You might check with these folks to see if they can advise whether they have correct shims for your gun - Colt Revolver Shim Kits and Springs (triggershims.com)