New conundrum- to fix or not to fix...

HowardC

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2004
Messages
139
Location
Thornton, CO
Today I picked up a Taurus 605 snubbie. It's sorta soothing an itch for a little revolver I've nursed for some time. Got it at a pawn shop, so couldn't check the trigger, etc in the store. Mandatory trigger lock, etc. I won't comment on the insulting background check procedure here in Colorado.

It seems in pretty good shape, locks up tight on 4 of the 5 cylinder positions, and can barely feel wiggle on the 5th. Overall condition is good, few handling marks on the satin SS finish. Slight but visible cylinder line. I can't see any flame cutting in the top strap. I suspect it hasn't been fired much, being as it's likely a handful with 357 loads. I'll have to see what some mid-range 38s will feel like.

The trigger is rather stiff on both double and single action. It breaks pretty clean but seems heavier than my other revolvers. I'm pondering whether it's worth it to have a pistol smith work on the trigger to make it easier to pull in double action and less heavy in single action. I'd have to find a pistol smith here around Denver and fear he'd laugh at me wanting to try the silk purse/sow's ear effort on this gun. I have a few store bought 357's to try, and I'll gin up some mid range 38 loads to test it with. It may get some new Hogue grips if it shoots OK. I'll post a range report in a week or two and listen to any comments proffered.

-West out
 
If it looks like it hasn't been fired much, try cleaning out the action first, I mean any crud left over from the machining process. Then dry fire it about 500 times. Then clean the action out again, and another 500 dry fires.
That's where I'd start before spending money on a trigger job. It may smooth out on its own.
 
If it looks like it hasn't been fired much, try cleaning out the action first, I mean any crud left over from the machining process. Then dry fire it about 500 times. Then clean the action out again, and another 500 dry fires.
That's where I'd start before spending money on a trigger job. It may smooth out on its own.
I saw this same advice about dry firing it to death regarding my SW 642. I’ve got to say it truly cleaned mine right up nicely.
 
I second the dry firing. In my case, I have fired my 1966 Browning HP probably 40x more with my Ciener conversion unit than with CF ammo, that has smoother out the trigger nicely.
IMHO dry firing achieves the same as polishing or stoning, it just takes longer.
 
try cleaning out the action first, I mean any crud left over from the machining process.
Not sure how to 'clean out the action'. I guess I could run a gallon of Hoppe's through all the holes into the interior. I'm not sure about opening the side plate. Course it'd make for an interesting afternoon. A new learning experience.,... It's not like I have a fortune in this gun.

They made the grip removal hard enough. It's held on with a roll pin not the usual screw arrangement.

Thanks for the comments, all.

-West out
 
Not sure how to 'clean out the action'. I guess I could run a gallon of Hoppe's through all the holes into the interior. I'm not sure about opening the side plate. Course it'd make for an interesting afternoon. A new learning experience.,... It's not like I have a fortune in this gun.

They made the grip removal hard enough. It's held on with a roll pin not the usual screw arrangement.

Thanks for the comments, all.

-West out
Flush the action brake cleaner or gunscrubber. Don't forget to relube.
 
I've had a lot of Taurus j-frames, mostly bought used. Most of them have had stiff triggers. If so, I replace the mainspring with a slightly reduced power one from Wolff Springs. It costs around $10 and normally solves the problem.

I got this one last year because I didn't have a snub 357 and it was super cheap. IIRC, it was one of the few that came to me with a decent trigger. Someone may have already switched out the springs. :)

 
Those guns were known to have somewhat rough internals. Machine marks not addressed and whatnot, some guns had scarf in them somehow. I can’t imagine how scarf would stay in the frame through a cleaning and bluing process but it did, and I have seen it. Do a detail clean and at least pop the side plate off and hose it out with whatever cleaner you prefer. When you go back together with it use a decent lubricant and then dry fire the snot out of it.
 

Not sure how to 'clean out the action'. I guess I could run a gallon of Hoppe's through all the holes into the interior. I'm not sure about opening the side plate. Course it'd make for an interesting afternoon. A new learning experience.,... It's not like I have a fortune in this gun.

They made the grip removal hard enough. It's held on with a roll pin not the usual screw arrangement.

Thanks for the comments, all.

-West out
Unless the early ones were way different than the ones I've worked on, getting the side plate off isn't really that hard. Take the screws out and then tap around the frame with a soft-headed Hammer, or other rubber coated thingy, until it pops loose. You don't want to pry at them cuz there's a lip, and you can bend the plate trying to get it off.

There's some good videos on YouTube.
 
I'm not sure of the vintage of this one. It's in pretty good condition. I tried the serial no. lookup, but didn't figure out how to make it work. Maybe later when I'm home. It has a hammer lock, so it's that recent. I appreciate the comments and suggestions.
-West out
 
CLP, I hose out the internal parts then blow out the excess with canned air. I take the side plate off, but there is probably a way to do it with it on if you don't care to take the plate off.
 
Out of curiosity I looked for a Taurus disassembly procedure. I found out the 605 and 85 are built similarly. I found this pictorial that appears to have been done by @chicharrones unless there is another Chicharonnes out there if that’s the case I apologize.

The first post may be compressed in the link. You may have to click on a photo or a small window to expand it. LOTS of good info here, it seems.

Here is what I would do if this were my 605.
I would remove the grips, remove the side plate then flush the insides with Hornady One Shot CLP (not One Shot Case Lube)
It will clean and leave a nice dry film lube on all the internal parts. You could add some drops of oil on pivot points and any areas with obvious friction wear.

Congrats on your new to you Taurus.
 
Out of curiosity I looked for a Taurus disassembly procedure. I found out the 605 and 85 are built similarly. I found this pictorial that appears to have been done by @chicharrones unless there is another Chicharonnes out there if that’s the case I apologize.

The first post may be compressed in the link. You may have to click on a photo or a small window to expand it. LOTS of good info here, it seems.

Here is what I would do if this were my 605.
I would remove the grips, remove the side plate then flush the insides with Hornady One Shot CLP (not One Shot Case Lube)
It will clean and leave a nice dry film lube on all the internal parts. You could add some drops of oil on pivot points and any areas with obvious friction wear.

Congrats on your new to you Taurus.
If you don’t like dry lube then make sure there’s no plastic bits around and then hose it out with carb cleaner. Lube it up with your preferred lube and go back together with it.
 
If I were mine I would remove the side plate and take a picture of the guts, cellphone, tablet, digital camera, whatever will give you the largest picture. Then I would flush out the innards with something like Supertech carb cleaner, a very good cleaner and so far safe to any finish I have had it on. After drying which can be accelerated with something as simple as swiping your wife's hairdryer I would remove the trigger and hammer and carefully smooth the contacting surfaces using Brownell's trigger hone stones. Be gentle keeping the stone flat with the surface and the stone will tell you when all the burrs are gone. Reassemble and lube. If the trigger is still too heavy then it's time to consider a lighter spring.

The stones are a good investment as they will last your lifetime and you can improve a lot of triggers during that time.
 
Today I picked up a Taurus 605 snubbie. It's sorta soothing an itch for a little revolver I've nursed for some time. Got it at a pawn shop, so couldn't check the trigger, etc in the store. Mandatory trigger lock, etc. I won't comment on the insulting background check procedure here in Colorado.

It seems in pretty good shape, locks up tight on 4 of the 5 cylinder positions, and can barely feel wiggle on the 5th. Overall condition is good, few handling marks on the satin SS finish. Slight but visible cylinder line. I can't see any flame cutting in the top strap. I suspect it hasn't been fired much, being as it's likely a handful with 357 loads. I'll have to see what some mid-range 38s will feel like.

Sounds good, and I would not expect flame cutting on that revolver. .357 is indeed a handful. I suspect the relatively few I have shot through mine are the reason it's sloppyier than yours is (from your destiption).

The trigger is rather stiff on both double and single action. It breaks pretty clean but seems heavier than my other revolvers. I'm pondering whether it's worth it to have a pistol smith work on the trigger to make it easier to pull in double action and less heavy in single action. I'd have to find a pistol smith here around Denver and fear he'd laugh at me wanting to try the silk purse/sow's ear effort on this gun. I have a few store bought 357's to try, and I'll gin up some mid range 38 loads to test it with. It may get some new Hogue grips if it shoots OK. I'll post a range report in a week or two and listen to any comments proffered.

-West out

So you haven't shot snubbies yet. They are like that.

Don't bother with a trigger job yet, and don't be tempted to put a spring kit in. Just shoot it a bunch. It will smooth up.

Hogues are OK.
 
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I'm not sure of the vintage of this one. It's in pretty good condition. I tried the serial no. lookup, but didn't figure out how to make it work. Maybe later when I'm home. It has a hammer lock, so it's that recent. I appreciate the comments and suggestions.
-West out
https://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/taurus-revolvers.13/

A pinned thread in the revolver subforum of Taurusarmed.net, on dating Taurus revolvers. There's a serial number chart in there. And, to complicate things, the serial number system changed 4 or 5 years ago.
 
Out of curiosity I looked for a Taurus disassembly procedure. I found out the 605 and 85 are built similarly. I found this pictorial that appears to have been done by @chicharrones unless there is another Chicharonnes out there if that’s the case I apologize.
Only one chicharrones! That was actually a pretty good 85UL. I traded it towards something different a couple of years ago.
 
Just my humble opinion -
A Heavy trigger pull on a little magnum caliber revolver is a feature, not a problem. The last thing you want is this going off when you are not 100% ready. If it catches you by surprise it will hurt.
This is not a target gun. It is a bad breath contact range gun.
Having said that, you also don’t want the trigger so stiff it is white knuckle shake inducing grit your teeth hard. If you feel the need to have the trigger smoothed out to a moderate few pounds of pull go for it. I just don’t think this is an application where you want trigger pull measured in ounces.
 
What @lee n. field posted is very true. If you haven't shot small-framed revolvers very much, their smaller size basically gives the trigger parts worse leverage (someone can doubtless explain this better). As a result, their average trigger is stiffer than an average k-frame trigger.

I'll still replace the springs if it's too stiff for me (looking at you, Taurus), but my expectations are appropriately low in the first place for j-frames.
 
Well, I called the Taurus customer service and they informed me that this gun dates to June of 2022. So it's pretty new. I can't get to it for a few days, but I'll clean it up inside and go from there. Thanks all for all the info.
-West out
 
Had a similar issue with wife's 649. Removed side plate to find hardened grease. Replaced grease with white moly. Big improvement.
FWIW YMMV
 
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