New Dillon 650XL Press

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loadedround

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I'm not normally one to brag, but I have to say that after 20 plus years of running two Dillon 550B presses, I have finally ordered a Dillon 650XL press with all the bells and whistles. Since I'm now sitting here like a kid waiting for Christmas morning to arrive, I was hoping for any hints or suggestions users of a 650 press could offer me. The new press will be used for primarily loading 45 ACP ammo: and my older 550's will be set up to load 223's and 308's with some 9mm and 44 magnums thrown in. :)
 
welllllll, since you didn't ask any specific questions, all I can say is follow the directions when setting it up, then get busy! First thing you'll notice is how nice it is to have auto index, and not have to put a shell in the shell plate each time,(unless you have the new case feeder for your 550's.

I got the 650 video because my 650 was my first progressive. It's nice but you won't need it because your 550's are similar. The printed instructions are very well writen IF you are already an experienced reloader.
 
How much did you have have to pay for you 650 with all the bells and whistles?
looking to buy one myself
 
Adjust the powder check stem so that it makes enough contact to bend the plactic arm on the underside of the buzzer. The arm is made to flex and after following the instructions from Dillon, the buzzer would not always go off.

The shute that guides the loaded cartridges into the bin may need to be bent to clear the shellplate; be careful raising the shellplate until you know there is enough clearance.

Purchase more large primer pickup tube; you'll need them.

Start looking for additional .45 brass sources; you're going to need a lot of brass to feed the beast.:)
 
Mh38sp: To answer your question, my 650 was purchased online used, but in like new condition. It came loaded with all options less a "Powder Check System'' and an operating manual that I have subsequenty have on order with Dillon. Email me and I will quote you the price. I have been shopping around for over a year to find the best price and what I found is "there ain't none! Dillon has fixed prices with all their dealers to sell at M.S.R.P. pricing (Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price). BTW, this is an example of the Fair Trade Law and is my understanding illegal in the USA. However I am not an attorney, but have had 38 years industry experience where price fixing brought the Attorney General's office down on you. Having said all that, the best deal I've found so far is through Brian Enos. Still MRSP, but he pays transportation for all orders over 400.00 and without sales tax. Good hunting. :)
 
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Woo Hoo! Congratulations! I'd say your best course of action at this point is to spend the time ordering 45 ACP components ;-)
 
someone once posted a fix, so that when the shell plate indexes, it won't spill powder from the cases.
 
I've had a 650 for a while now and I can tell you one thing right now getting the priming arm out is a royal PITA and that was confirmed by one of their tech guys. I tried every conceivable way to get the primer arm out and there is no room to get a wrench in to remove it. Pliers will work but you'll mangle the flats on the arm. i saved my pennies and bought a second 650,it's easier to change the machine than the primer arm. I also bought a replacement piece for the primer catcher. It's replaces the cup and has a length of tygon tubing that I put in a trash can and when the primer pops out it goes straight into the trash.
Bought it off a guy on E bay but sadly the ad is no longer there.
 
when the shell plate indexes, it won't spill powder
Click to expand...
If you have your left hand on the case that is indexing from station 3 to 4, it takes the vibration out and powder will not 'flip' out of the charged cases.

I can tell you one thing right now getting the priming arm out is a royal PITA and that was confirmed by one of their tech guys
Click to expand...
This is true. I use an open end wrench (think it's 9/16) to remove and tighten this bolt. The wrench is placed on the bolt at +/- 140 deg in lieu of 90. Not the best way to turn a bolt, but it works in this case. The bolt does not have to be real tight.
 
If you have your left hand on the case that is indexing from station 3 to 4, it takes the vibration out and powder will not 'flip' out of the charged cases.
Click to expand...
Agree. This definately takes the 'snap' out of the shell plate as it indexes. I also grounded my machine and this eliminates static electricity which also causes powder to jump around.
 
Dillon has fixed prices with all their dealers to sell at M.S.R.P. pricing (Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price).
Click to expand...

When I bought my 550B I found a dealer on eBay (way back - around 1999) who sold at less than sticker (new in box). With shipping it was still less than sticker, and I was happy with the deal. If Dillon sells to dealers at a wholesale price high enough to "force" them to sell at sticker price in order to make a dime, I'm not sure that's price fixing, but like you, I'm not a lawyer (and can sleep nights & look at myself in the mirror :rolleyes: ). I can say that for the money I paid, it has been worth every penny, and Dillon customer service is truly the icing on the cake. I would love to get a 650; if ever I run across a really good deal, I will probably buy it. :cool:
 
Forget the Dillon powder check, all it does is eat batteries.
Get a Powder Cop or Powder Check die.
 
I use the RCBS Lock-Out die and I wouldn't load pistol cartridges without it. I wish they made one for rifle cartridges.
 
Unless you handle each case individually before tossing into the casefeed, position yourself so you can see the cases entering stage one. It will save you a stoppage (and probably a broken/bent decapping pin) if/when a .40 or 9MM case gets mixed in.

Also, I modified the casefeed adapter to clear longer cases. In stock configuration a longer case will pull the tube out spilling cases everywhere.
 
Forget the Dillon powder check, all it does is eat batteries.
Get a Powder Cop or Powder Check die.
Click to expand...

I totally disagree! The dillon is audible, you don't have to watch it. The Hornady powder cop is visual The RCBS somehow locks the press.

If your dillon powder check is eating batteries, it must be alarming a lot, then you have something wrong with your powder charge. Or the wrong foot on the powder rod. Operator error, not a design fault. The times mine squeaks at me is the only time I look at it, usually it's just a bit out of adjustment, or I didn't make sure the nut was tight on the plunger.
 
Set it up according to the manual. Buy dies in all the calibers you shoot and caliber conversions. Get a 9/16" 45 degree offset wrench for the primer rod nut. Feel free to call Dillon's customer support for anything. They are very helpful. Go to Brianenos.com and look in the dillon reloading forum. Lots of good tips there.

Congratulations on a great purchase. The 650 is the only loader I have ever owned. I dont think I could have done it the one at a time way.
 
To those Gentlemen who recommended the RCBS or Hornady lockout die over the Dillon lockout die, I most totally agree. After reading all the literature available for both dies I have decided to place an order for the RCBS die. It's half the price of Dillon's die and seems much less complicated to set up and operate. Another bonus is no batteries needed. Thanks guys for the heads up. :)
 
My Dillon powder check dies get two to three years on a single battery (seldom beeps). Don't know how easy the RCBS and Hornady are to set up, but if you can use an Allen wrench the Dillon isn't to difficult.

Regarding powder check dies in general: I would never trust my health and well being, or that of my guns, to a die. I have far more trust in my eyesight. I have powder check dies because they came with the press. I wouldn't waste the money on them.
 
Just happy and looking for comments and advice.
Click to expand...

The best advice I can give you is that once you have the press figured out, let me come over from Paoli and see how it works! I'll bring a pound of the powder of your choice.
 
New 650

You will love this loader.

A few suggestions which you probably know.

1. Be smooth with your stroke, the deluxe handle is easier than the standard.
2. Do Not force the reloader, you will break indexing ring
3. If needed change your springs with a piece of thread, hook one end on tie a LOOP of thread to the other end stretch the spring and then cut the loop.
4. If you haven't done this order the replacement parts kit, it is a lifesaver.

Be Safe
 
Alrutzz: You have a deal. I will be installing it this weekend. Still waiting for some needed parts to come in. Give me two weeks and I'll contact you for a demo if you send me your email address. LR
 
Quote:
when the shell plate indexes, it won't spill powder
If you have your left hand on the case that is indexing from station 3 to 4, it takes the vibration out and powder will not 'flip' out of the charged cases.

Quote:
I can tell you one thing right now getting the priming arm out is a royal PITA and that was confirmed by one of their tech guys
This is true. I use an open end wrench (think it's 9/16) to remove and tighten this bolt. The wrench is placed on the bolt at +/- 140 deg in lieu of 90. Not the best way to turn a bolt, but it works in this case. The bolt does not have to be real tight.
Click to expand...

here is a link to a fix for this problem thanks to yankeeprepper
http://youtu.be/g52b6NIsAfM
 
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