New Flash Hider... Do I Need An Upper Vice Block?

[Scrod314]

Hello...
I was going to put a new flash hider on my AR. How essential is an upper vice block for this?
I saw a friend remove one by wrapping his upper in towels, putting the upper in between his mattress and box spring, then sitting on it. It kept enough pressure on the upper that he removed a stubborn bird cage.
I'm not sure I want to try that method, but it seemed to work.

 

[mcb]

A reaction rod (https://midwestindustriesinc.com/mi-upper-receiver-rod/) with a lug that goes into the charging handle slot is the best option, giving the upper the most protection from damage. That said I have done it before using a bench vice with polymer jaw covers that gives me a good grip on the barrel without marring the barrel finish. In that case my handguard came off easy enough that I was able to get a full 6-inches of grab between gas block and receiver.

 

[herrwalther]

I have gotten A2 flash hiders off with an AR wrench and holding the upper between my legs. Going forward for my next AR, I will probably grab a reaction rod. Those look the best option for keeping the upper still and stable.

 

[tritonguy]

I've used this:
BROWNELLS AR-15/M16 BARREL EXTENSION TORQUE TOOLS | Brownells

 

[DustyGmt]

I've used an AR wrench/multi tool and just gave it a few light smacks with a rubber mallet with the upper recvr wedged between the legs. Worked like a charm, maybe not ideal but it works with no ill effect. I bought some surefire shims to get my GA FCIII flash comp timed correctly and have used this method multiple times....

Like I said, not ideal but if you're just talking about swapping a muzzle device or two, having the proper tool is nice but probably not critical... just my humble opinion.

 

[MachIVshooter]

Insert a 30 round mag for leverage and stick the rifle between your legs.

I have all the professional equipment, and I still remove/install tons of muzzle devices this way

 

[12Bravo20]

Insert a 30 round mag for leverage and stick the rifle between your legs.

I have all the professional equipment, and I still remove/install tons of muzzle devices this way

I so similar myself. Every once in a while I find a muzzle device that the 2 ton gorilla at PSA installed and over torqued but most of the time they come right of with not much effort.

Anymore, the only time I really use a vise is when torquing the barrel nut. I assemble lowers at my desk or while watching TV.

 

[AlexanderA]

It makes a difference if the flash hider was installed with a crush washer or a peel washer. Sometimes, with a crush washer, way too much torque was used. You might have to use a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to slice the crush washer, first. (This is a delicate operation since you don't want to nick either your barrel or your flash hider.)

 

[Chuck R.]

I normally use a MagPul BEV block or a Wilton vice.

In a pinch, you can take your upper and straddle the corner of a bench (rail up), and clamp it to the table by using a block of wood on the rail.

 

[mcb]

Just remember that if you are holding onto just the upper or upper-lower pair together. All the torque you are applying to the muzzle device is being transferred to the upper through the index pin and the friction generate by the barrel nut pinching the flange on the barrel extension against the receiver. We have all done it and gotten away with it. But remember that and if you get a muzzle device that is really stuck get a reaction rod before you damage an upper. It only takes breaking one good upper to pay for a reaction rod. If you have the equipment to clamp the barrel directly without marring it is always the best as the upper never sees any toque then.

 

[Shawn Dodson]

Use a barrel vise block, which clamps the barrel in a vise.

Why?

A barrel vise block prevents torque applied to the barrel, through the muzzle device, from being transferred to the barrel extension, which can cause the barrel to rotate on the barrel extension. While the barrel extension should be torqued onto the barrel with 100 ft/lbs torque, your barrel may not be properly torqued.

The locating pin on the barrel extension can also shear, allowing rotation.

Upper receiver rods, action rods, and upper receiver blocks do not prevent this.

 

[trackskippy]

Ive taken a bunch off using MacIVshooter and 12Bravo20's method and never had any troubles. They usually come off pretty easily.

If it was being ignorant, and not coming off easily, and I was going to put anything into a vice, it would be the barrel, if possible. That, or use a strap wrench on the barrel itself, so it doesn't torque anything else. It doesn't make sense to me to try and secure anything else, if its not isolating the barrel.

 

[12Bravo20]

Ive taken a bunch off using MacIVshooter and 12Bravo20's method and never had any troubles. They usually come off pretty easily.

If it was being ignorant, and not coming off easily, and I was going to put anything into a vice, it would be the barrel, if possible. That, or use a strap wrench on the barrel itself, so it doesn't torque anything else. It doesn't make sense to me to try and secure anything else, if its not isolating the barrel.

I totally agree. And when I run into a muzzle device that some gorilla over torqued, then I will use a barrel block in a sturdy bench vice.

 

[BigBlue 94]

Magpul BEV block or a barrel vise.

A quick vise can be made by clamping two blocks of hardwood together and drilling a hole, slightly undersized for the barrel, on the seam between the blocks. Use in conjunction with a bench vise.

I have warped an upper using a clamshell in a vise. Bent right below the ejection port.

 

[DustyGmt]

What is the best all purpose AR vice/clamp? Just out of curiosity. I always thought the BEV block was a good, reasonably priced item for assembling and torqued bbl's but I also thought the Geissele Reaction Rod might be a good way to go, but which one stands the best chance of not bending or reaming on the reciever/reciever ext. ?

 

[mcb]

What is the best all purpose AR vice/clamp? Just out of curiosity. I always thought the BEV block was a good, reasonably priced item for assembling and torqued bbl's but I also thought the Geissele Reaction Rod might be a good way to go, but which one stands the best chance of not bending or reaming on the reciever/reciever ext. ?

A reaction rod with a lug on top that goes into the charging handle slot (I linked to the Midwest version earlier in the thread) is probably the most protection you can give and upper when torqueing or removing a barrel nut. PSA actually has them on sale at a decent price right now.