Homerboy
Member
Couldn't resist. Local sale so no shipping. Looks almost unfired. Made in 1973. I didn't need it but I missed my old Model 36.
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New Model 60 No Dash!
- Thread starter Homerboy
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Sistema1927
Member
Nice. I like the original .38 Special Model 60 better than the .357 that it morphed into.
Homerboy
Member
Me too. Not interested in the magnum version.
Homerboy
Member
Thanks. It's from a different time. Factory stocks are numbered to the gun. Don't wanna change a thing with it. I usually Polish my revolvers with Mother's Mag to
A high shine but not this one.
A high shine but not this one.
CaptTripps
Member
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- 284
I miss my Model 36 also! I'd put a Tyler T-grip on it.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
I would,add a grip adapter like a Tyler T-Grip or similar for shooting comfort. I painted this T-Grip black a week after I got it.
Homerboy
Member
I might put a Tyler grip on it. Been a long time since i shot a j frame. Gonna shoot it Monday and see how it goes. If it's uncomfortable I'll add the T grip.
edmo01
Member
My model 60 "no dash" is a square-butt and chambered in 38 Special (non +P) and as you can see I'm another T-grip fan.
It is on the left in the picture and is posing with it's J-frame brothers... A model 642 Airweight (38 +P) on the top right and a 640 Pro Series (357 Mag).
I generally carry them with 38 Special rounds, but will load 357 Magnums in the 640 for carry in the woods.
Edmo
It is on the left in the picture and is posing with it's J-frame brothers... A model 642 Airweight (38 +P) on the top right and a 640 Pro Series (357 Mag).
I generally carry them with 38 Special rounds, but will load 357 Magnums in the 640 for carry in the woods.
Edmo
bannockburn
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- Apr 24, 2007
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- 26,308
Homerboy
Another vote for a Tyler T-Grip adapter. Makes the tiny factory J frame stocks much easier to get a decent grip on and doesn't add any bulk to the gun for concealed carry purposes.
The factory boot grips on the newer guns is also very comfortable to use, especially with the lighter weight aluminum alloy frame guns.
Another vote for a Tyler T-Grip adapter. Makes the tiny factory J frame stocks much easier to get a decent grip on and doesn't add any bulk to the gun for concealed carry purposes.
The factory boot grips on the newer guns is also very comfortable to use, especially with the lighter weight aluminum alloy frame guns.
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Homerboy
Member
The Model 60 is stainless steel, and the Model 36 is blued steel. Other than that, same gun, until the later 60's were made in .357. The Model 60 is the first stainless steel revolver ever made.
P5 Guy
Member
36 is carbon steel and will be blue finished or nickel plated, the 60 is stainless steel and will not have a 'finish'.
The 60 is a 36 made of stainless steel. The original no dash was a .38 special , just like the "Chief"(36). Later variations were chambered for 357 magnum , and the proportions changed slightly. The later 60's , in 357 , are not a stainless Chief's Special in my book.
I carry a 60-9 ,(I think..) ; it is a great carry piece and very good shooter , but not as classy as the no dash .38. I also own a nickel Chief's Special , which later became the model 36.
I carry a 60-9 ,(I think..) ; it is a great carry piece and very good shooter , but not as classy as the no dash .38. I also own a nickel Chief's Special , which later became the model 36.
351 WINCHESTER
Member
Nice score. This was s & w's hottest number for a long time. Back in the late 60's thru the 70's you usually had to wait a long time to find one, and when you did you probably paid double the list price.
Homerboy
Member
Yeah. I have read about the 6 month waiting list for these back in the day. Made quite the splash back in the day.
bannockburn
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- Apr 24, 2007
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- 26,308
Homerboy
Back in the day a typical Model 36 would go for around $125 to $150; you might find them for a bit less money if you went with a 3" barrel. When and if you found a Model 60 the price was usually $300+. Likewise a Model 40 or Model 42 could fetch anywhere from $450 on up. If you were a regular S&W stocking dealer you might have to agree to take 10 or more Model 10s in order to get one Model 60.
So yes, they were the "hot ticket" item back then, along with the Model 29!
Back in the day a typical Model 36 would go for around $125 to $150; you might find them for a bit less money if you went with a 3" barrel. When and if you found a Model 60 the price was usually $300+. Likewise a Model 40 or Model 42 could fetch anywhere from $450 on up. If you were a regular S&W stocking dealer you might have to agree to take 10 or more Model 10s in order to get one Model 60.
So yes, they were the "hot ticket" item back then, along with the Model 29!
RUT
Member
>>Me too. Not interested in the magnum version.<<
Ditto that... .38 +P is all I care to shoot out of a snubby.
Ditto that... .38 +P is all I care to shoot out of a snubby.
Homerboy
Member
I shot it today at 21 feet. Certainly killed the target, but I think a Tyler T-grip will be a must. Gun kept slipping around in my hand. My hand would even rise up slightly and I would feel the hammer touch my hand when I fired quickly as if it was a self defense shooting.
I carried it in a cheap Bianchi suede holster that fits pretty much any 2" snub, and it was much more comfortable than my LC9-S i carry in a nylon Desantis. I literally forgot the gun was there.
I was shooting my handloads, which are 158 grain lead loaded middle of the road, and I forgot how these little snubbies recoil. Those same rounds in my Model 67 feel like almost a .22. I forgot my carry ammo, which is 158 grain +P hollowpoints, but I have no doubt they would have felt almost like .357.
I know they probably could handle limited +P ammo, but were these 60's rated for +P? I'm still gonna carry them, just never shoot any in it other than a cylinder or two a year to just stay familiar with them.
I carried it in a cheap Bianchi suede holster that fits pretty much any 2" snub, and it was much more comfortable than my LC9-S i carry in a nylon Desantis. I literally forgot the gun was there.
I was shooting my handloads, which are 158 grain lead loaded middle of the road, and I forgot how these little snubbies recoil. Those same rounds in my Model 67 feel like almost a .22. I forgot my carry ammo, which is 158 grain +P hollowpoints, but I have no doubt they would have felt almost like .357.
I know they probably could handle limited +P ammo, but were these 60's rated for +P? I'm still gonna carry them, just never shoot any in it other than a cylinder or two a year to just stay familiar with them.
RUT
Member
>>I know they probably could handle limited +P ammo, but were these 60's rated for +P?<<
No, they're not rated for +P, but that's what I carry in mine in the unlikely event I'll ever need it for self defense.
No, they're not rated for +P, but that's what I carry in mine in the unlikely event I'll ever need it for self defense.
Sistema1927
Member
S&W states that any steel .38 Special revolver made post-1957 (those with Model numbers) are safe with +P.
MICHAEL T
Member
I saw a 37 few years back with a cracked frame from to many +P rounds .
I carry +P in my 36 and 49 But only shoot min amount at range. Just to be use to the difference over 38 spl.
I carry +P in my 36 and 49 But only shoot min amount at range. Just to be use to the difference over 38 spl.
F-111 John
Member
I have a Model 60 no dash, 1987 build, and I find that the Hoague 61000 grips are very comfortable to shoot, and very easy to conceal.
(Not my Model 60, just an internet photo to show the grips)
(Not my Model 60, just an internet photo to show the grips)
Sistema1927
Member
Michael T, the Mod 37 is an alloy lightweight, the Mod 60 is stainless steel. I don't shoot +P in my Mod 37 (I use the Buffalo Bore standard pressure 158 in mine when I carry it), but I would have no qualms using +P in any STEEL S&W with a Model number.
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