New rifle prep

[igotta40]

When you receive your new rifle, do you remove it from the stocks and coat the steel with a rust prevention or preservative like Rem oil or Hoppe’s grease?

 

[mgmorden]

No - for the most part the factories oil them pretty good before they ship out as they might be sitting in those boxes for a while.

 

[American_Fusilier]

I also don't do anything, except if it's a milsurp. Then after cosmoline is removed I oil the parts that will be beneath the wood

 

[illinoisburt]

For a new rifle I don't do prep in that sense. Rather I will clean the barrel as recommended by the manufacturer and check every screw before it gets to a range for official sight-in. Chasing a loose base screws or optics ring can be terribly frustrating. You would be disappointed to know how often I have found a screw loose or bottomed out before actually applying torque on the mount. It happens so dealing with it proactively.

 

[1948CJ2A]

Nope, pretty much mount my optic appropriately, run a cleaning rod through it a couple of times and go shoot.

 

[lightman]

I do! I also run a wet patch and a few dry patches down the barrel. A few times I didn't get anything out of it but most times I did get some metal particles left over from the machining process.

 

[Dave DeLaurant]

I haven't bought many genuinely new rifles lately, but new or used, I'll take it out of the stock and give the exterior metal surfaces a wipe down with a good CLP before sticking it into its knitted silicone sleeve for storage.

This is especially important with older used rifles -- before shooting you should find out what's happened under the stock line.

A couple years ago I bought a pair of antique German hunting rifles that turned out to have moderate-to-severe pitting in a few places under the forend, where I suspect blood had seeped in between the stock and barrel. I had to DQ one as a wall-hanger because of deep pits in the chamber area.

You can learn other things with the stock removed. My 'new' FN 1924 Mexican Mauser held a happy surprise in this respect: under the stock and handguard its barrel still wore a virtually unblemished factory blue finish, and displayed a set of proof marks matching those on the receiver, thus confirming originality. It was also apparent that the receiver was still in the white as manufactured rather than just having a worn reblue job.

 

[dh1633pm]

Never. Clean as needed and then shoot it. It happens pretty fast. Like most can't wait to put a round through it.

 

[igotta40]

I can wait. It also gives me a chance to check for thread locker on the receiver screws. If I’m spending my money on a rifle with a nicely blued barrel I want to protect it.

 

[3Crows]

When you receive your new rifle, do you remove it from the stocks and coat the steel with a rust prevention or preservative like Rem oil or Hoppe’s grease?

I generally fully strip and then disassemble the components for inspetion and deburring or as needed polishing. I am very conservative in that regard, it gets overdone by many. I, henceforth, will only purchase stainless steel (yeah, sure ).

 

[Oldschool shooter]

I may go overboard, but I always to a disassembly, wipe down with a light oil and run a few patches through the bore. I also find out the factory torque specs for reciever to stock so that I am not over/ under tightening stock screws. That can drive you nuts if the rifle isn't performing as you would expect.

 

[luv2safari]

Nope, pretty much mount my optic appropriately, run a cleaning rod through it a couple of times and go shoot.

Absolutely!

 

[Captcurt]

I had a friend who is a gunsmith suggest a good barrel lapping with Iosso when I bought a new Savage Model 10 Sierra 300 WSM. I ran tight patches with Iosso through it for 3 nights when I was bored. Maybe 3 fifteen-minute sessions. Ran a couple of dry patches through it and loaded a starting load of IMR-4350 under 168gr SMK. The first 7 groups (3 shot) groups measured under 1". I lap all of my new guns now.

 

[Steel Horse Rider]

When I got my new Ruger Mini home I took it apart and lubed the moving parts with Mobil 1 and then wiped them down. I normally pull a bore snake with some CLP through the barrel from both ends after reassembling it. I like to ensure that moving parts are lubed and contaminates are removed before putting new acquisitions into the firing rotation. I use the same basic routine on the used rifles I buy also.