New to reloading from the UK

[kcofohio]

Welcome to THR Pilgrim!
Look at the 158 gr. lead load data. Which ever powder you use, cross reference Lee's data to the powder makers data. Usually you'll see where Lee uses data from powder or bullet maker's existing data.
And that should give you the type of bullet that was used for that load.

 

[Potatohead]

You need to have your home inspected by a firearms officer.

OMG, that's horrible..hate to hear that.

 

[Furious Pilgrim]

Bullets have landed! Think I can finally start making up some dummy rounds to get the dies set up.
Quick question though, 95% of the bullets are fine, but a very small amount have had the lube ring chipped away, probably during transit.
1. Does it matter?
2. Is there anything I can 'fill in' the missing bit with?

 

[Magnum Shooter]

A little bit will not matter, picture looks like a little more than a little bit, try Lee liquid alox (if you can get it), or wax from toilet seal or some other type of wax.

 

[al123]

Welcome to reloading. I am also relatively new to this. I do mostly 38 and 357 reloads. I think you may find Trail Boss powder for light target loads to your liking especially with lead bullets. This powder is much harder to double charge. There should be more information in the Hodgdon loading data manual.

This is just a precaution, and you may already be doing this in order to minimize lead exposure.

Wash your hands thoroughly after handling lead bullets and spent primers. Primers release lead salts after being fired. You can also wear disposable gloves. IMO, one doesn't have to go overboard on this, but common sense wouldn't hurt either. Many reloading books should have a section on this.

Note that the Lee CT setup when using their decapping die minimizes any lead salt spraying when primer 'pops' when being punched out. IMO, it really is a well thought out product for the money.

Good luck.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

So I've been reading the Lee reloading book, everything is starting to make sense

The club I shoot at have some limits on muzzle energy and velocoity. 471ft lbs and 1400 fps. Jacketed bullets aren't allowed.
For some reason I had it in my mind these were fairly tame limits? Maybe they are? But looking at the loading data, it seems they aren't as light as I imagined?

Unfortunately, the Lee manual doesn't list data for a 158grn swc. I presume a search on here will throw up some loads to try though. For reference, these are what I have coming

http://www.shellhousebulletcompany.co.uk/apps/webstore/products/show/4302078

If you're going to load lead bullets, and it seems you will because of your range requirements, I highly suggest buying a Lyman 4th Edition Cast bullet Handbook. It has tons of load data for lead bullet loading and if in the future you decide to cast your own bullets that book will help there too.
http://www.midwayuk.com/epages/Midway_UK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Midway_UK/Products/867465&

I'm not sure which powders are available there but you can find a powder that will load hot .38 Special and light .357 Magnum ammo too. Powders like W231/HP-38, Unique, Accurate #5, Power Pistol and a few others are the powders I know but I'm sure powders made by Vihtavuori are probably easier to find. I can't get them where I live so I'm not sure which to recommend but I'm sure someone here can.

Here is a link for VV load data that might help you.
http://www.lapua.com/en/products/reloading/vihtavuori-reloading-data
It looks like N330 is the crossover powder between the .38 Spl and .357 Mag with a 158gr LSWC bullet.

Good luck and welcome to the forum...

 

[blarby]

And thats a very good question- what powders do you have access to ?

 

[Furious Pilgrim]

And thats a very good question- what powders do you have access to ?

I haven't looked into availability in depth yet, but do recognise the brands talked about in here. This is a popular reloading supplier for the UK...

http://www.henrykrank.com/index.php...64_187&zenid=d86fc4dc44104cc80ab9d461a8089aff

I wonder how the prices differ for you guys?

 

[blarby]

**** !

39 #'s for a Lb of powder !

I'm so sorry..........

( for those of you who aren't familiar, the pound sterling is 1.68/ USD today. Think your powder is expensive ? Be thankful, America !)


At those prices- you'll have to do some math, but I think the unique at 36/# is gonna be your best bet.

For comparison, the last Unique I bought was $24.00 USD before the panic. The last powder I bought- last week, was H4198, and it was $31.00 USD per pound. Rifle powders generally run a few dollars more than pistol/shotgun powders, so I wasn't too upset by this slight uptick.

Just grabbed my hornady manual ( closest, lol ) and it lists unique at 3.3 grs for 700 fps to 5.0grs at 950 FPS for a 158g cast lead bullet.

Nice thing about Unique- as you venture into more reloading, is that it works in dang near everything. Thats what makes it Unique, lol

May not be the bleeding edge performance leader in every cartridge- but it will work well in almost every single one- and thats not a claim really any other powders can make with published data.

 

[Furious Pilgrim]

Haha, I thought they might be slightly more expensive than your used to. It used to bother me, but I had to realise that if I want to carry on the sport I enjoy, those are the prices I have to pay.
Same as .22LR, over here, a good price is £70/$110 per 1000. I won't tell you how much I paid for my S&W M&P 15-22... thankfully I have a good job and an understanding Mrs.

Hopefully later in the year I'll be back over your side of the pond, and I can stock up on some items that are customs safe.

 

[blarby]

customs safe.

Just make sure, lol

If there wasn't the damn ITAR, I'm sure we could load you up with enough stuff that your postal carrier would quit !

But do "vet" that customs thing well. If you are going to have a shipping address while you are here, and can provide a list of what you can take back, you might be very surprised at the generosity of the shooters this side of the pond.

We feel your plight on the guns. We told the crown that once, I'm sure we'd be more than happy to ship some more lead their way given the opportunity- especially the muzzleloader guys

 

[Furious Pilgrim]

I know of this generosity! I came over last year, flew into New York, 3 weeks and an awesome road trip later, flew out out Miami. Went to a shooting range in NC, and the people there were so helpfull. Shot all day and hardly cost us anything.
Strange situation where another country has more trust in you with firearms than your own country does.

 

[Master Blaster]

LSWC bullets seat them so 1/16" of the wide section or base is above the mouth of the case along with the entire conical reduced section. Light target loads are a job for faster burning powders, Bullseye, W231, unique. The best source for loads overall length information etc is either the powder makers websites, or a manual like the lyman manual. Monitor your charge weights carefully small loads of fast burning powder will only fill a small part of the .357 case and a double charge can blow up your gun. Under-charges and squibb loads that do not leave the barrel are also a hazzard, never try to shoot a stuck bullet out of the barrel. If anything does not sound or feel right stop and check your barrel for an obstruction or stuck bullet.

You will want standard small pistol primers for most powders in .357 mag reduced loads or .38 spl. Magnum primers are for slow burning powder in magnum power loads. Tumbling the bullets with a little lee liquid alox and letting them dry will reduce leading if you have any.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Well it looks like you have access to plenty of good powders from Alliant, Hodgdon, IMR, Ramshot and VV, that's a good thing.

If you're going to be loading .38 Special pressure loads in .357 Magnum brass I would use HP-38 and a CCI-500 primer. (and I do) HP-38 can do the higher pressure stuff too... (but not full house magnum velocities)

 

[Bush Pilot]

I'd bet that if Furious Pilgrim ever makes it back to the states there would be plenty of THR members lining up to take him shooting and wouldn't accept a cent.

 

[Furious Pilgrim]

Update.

So I finally got some free time so set about setting up the press. Just wanted to post up some pictures so I could get some advice. Made about 6 rounds (minus primer and powder).
It's probably too hard to tell from the photos, but do they look ok? Am I seating/crimping too much. The overall length measured out to 1.595", that's with a .357 case and 158gr keith style SWC.
Also, I used some previously fired Midway cases and brand new PPU cases. The PPU cases seem to have bevelled (if that's the right word) slightly. Hopefully this shows on the photos. What would cause that? The other thing I noticed with the new cases was there seemed to be a slight scuff on the one part of the case, again hopefully this shows in the pics.


Once fired Midway case on left, New PPU cases middle and right



Once fired Midway case on left, New PPU case on right






Once fired Midway case standing, New PPU cases lying down. Slight bevel on PPU case where bullet has seated?

 

[Elkins45]

I think they look good, but for relatively light loads you might not need quite so heavy of a crimp. Still, it probably doesn't hurt anything except maybe reducing the life of your brass just a tiny bit.

Regarding the ones you describe as having been 'beveled': I think that is the roll crimp you are referring to. Roll crimped revolver ammo crimp is sensitive to overall case length more than the taper crimp of auto pistol rounds because every tiny bit of extra length is turned into the crimping groove by the crimping/seating die. I suspect the 'beveled' cases are a tiny bit longer than the one you used when initially adjusting the crimp.

The scuffed one probably rubbed against the side of the case mouth of the flaring or seating die because it wasn't fully inserted into the shell holder. It shouldn't be a concern.

 

[FROGO207]

Welcome to the forum.
If the case lengths are not the same you will apply more crimp to the longer casing and thus less or none to the shorter ones. You could do them by headstamp and adjust for each batch if you wanted. Your crimps look OK to me. If the finished round fits into chamber you should be good to go. Too much crimp on the actual bullet sides that squeeze it down might reduce accuracy and increase leading. This is more of a problem with taper crimped brass such as the 9MM. That part will require experimentation.The scuff marks shown in that location are due to you not putting the brass fully into the shell holder and allowing it to ride straight up into the die. That could be due to something holding either the brass base or the actual shell holder from fully seating sideways into the ram. I would clean both of these areas just in case. You should have a ring that is the same all around when sizing your brass, my carbide dies actually shines up the brass and leaves no sharp gouges on the outside as those scratches will weaken your brass over time causing it to split faster. You will soon be a pro at it.

Elkins 45 is faster at typing than I am.

 

[Furious Pilgrim]

Thanks for the replies guys. I was wondering if perhaps I had the seating die in too much, and it was maybe trying to crimp before the bullet had seated fully. I'll have a play around with it and see what happens.

 

[Blue68f100]

You may be seating the bullet a little too deep. Which is causing the bullet to hang on the brass mouth as you crimp. Back off the OAL (1/8 turn) till you can see the groove. Leaving your crimp the same. As already said when doing a roll crimp it's best if all the cases are the same length.

 

[Furious Pilgrim]

Is it worth mentioning I'm using the Lee 4 die set, so have the factory crimp. Should I not crimp with the seating die, and just with the factory crimp?

Used Midway cases are measuring up at 1.279"
New PPU cases are measuring up at 1.272"

Is that enough of a difference to cause the extra crimping? If so, I can trim them down.

 

[Elkins45]

For light loads I just crimp enough to remove the flare from the neck expander die, making sure the mouth is at least turned back in parallel and they chamber easily.MI have no experience with the factory crimp die so I can't offer any advice there.

I don't believe you have mentioned the gun you are shooting these from. As a general rule a heaver gun doesn't need as much of a crimp as a light one, all other factors being equal.

My practice is to trim all of my revolver brass to the same length when I first get it, then forget about it. I have some brass that is 25+ years old and they are all still close enough in length.

 

[Furious Pilgrim]

Hoping to use them in a Taurus long barrel (12" barrel) and 1894c Marlin.

 

[Furious Pilgrim]

Hmmm, just been looking at the press again, it seems the dies are out of alignment with the ram. The die holder clicks into position at each stage, but is slightly off. Tried to get it on video...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/39aqzqkpz8ajxhj/VIDEO0020.3gp

 

[John C]

Pilgrim;

The others are correct that for light loads, or heavier guns, heavy crimp becomes less important. In these cases, bullet pull is less of an issue.

Since you're loading for a carbine with a tube magazine, crimp is important to keep the bullets from setting back due to the magazine spring pressure.

I think your crimps look fine, and agree that the different brands of cases have different length. Adjust your seater and crimp die between batches of cases to the difference.

On a different note, I'm not a fan of the Lee carbide factory crimp die. It sizes the case down after the bullet is inserted. When you're loading lead bullets, this will size down the bullet up .004. This will lead your bore like crazy, since bullet fit is critical in cast lead applications. I have picked up orphan seating dies, removed the seating stem, and use them as crimp dies. Thus, I still seat and crimp in different stations, but skip the final resizing. Whenever possible, I seat and crimp in separate operations. I only combine when I'm loading on a single stage press, which is very seldom.

Good luck!

-John