New toy new rounds 45acp

[raddiver]

I picked up some 45 acp dies about a month ago. But i had nothing to separate ammo into components. Yesterday i solved that problem and bought an SR1911 ammo separator.

Ive loaded for 380, 9mm and 38spcl. Is there anything i need to know or special caveats for 45acp? Other than ill need to change out my primer feed tubes for large pistol?

I dont have bullets yet, im not sure what to pick up. I use bullseye and unique for powders. so if you guys could offer some suggestions, id be down for that.

thanks
-Rad

 

[Cherokee]

45 ACP is one of the easiest to load. Lots of good loads in your load manual. Your powders both work fine. I suggest starting out with some FMJ RN 230 gr bullets to get the hang of loading the 45 ACP, or similar lead if you want to shoot cast bullets. Then you can try different bullets once you are familiar. I personally like the truncated cone design in 230 gr but lots of folks use the 200 gr SWC which is a vey good bullet. The Ruger should fed them fine. Since you have some experience, the learning curve should be quick. Let us know how it goes with the new Ruger.

 

[Galil5.56]

Might try a traditional 230 grain LRN to get started, loaded to a worked up to "GI ball" velocity. Bullseye and Unique very easily and safely have done as I say for many, many decades. Actual hands on testing over a good quality chronograph will show about 5-5.2 grains of Bullseye, and 6-6.2 grains of Unique will get these 830-850ish fps type "GI hardball" velocities from 5" 1911 pistols with 230 grain LRN bullets. Of course cast vs swaged, different lots of propellant, primers used, and case volume will dictate actual results, and why having a good chronograph used with good work up practices is the way to go IMO and experience.

Like any other auto pistol loading, good strong neck tension is key, as is not going overboard with taper crimping. Also lots of empty space especially using Bullseye in .45 Auto, so double checking charges prior to seating is as important as ever. I too look forward to how you like your new Ruger 1911.

 

[mbopp]

I believe 5.0gr of Bullseye and a 230gr RN equals the GI load.
I've found 3.8gr of Bullseye behind a 200gr cast SWC to be a light, accurate load that still cycles my Springfield with the standard spring. It tosses the cases about a foot and a half away from me.
5.3gr of W231 and a 200 SWC is supposed to make IDPA Major PF but I haven't verified it.
I have some Unique but haven't tried it yet. Bullseye and 231 are my "go to" powders.
I crimp my loads to .470" with cast bullets. They cycle fine and pass the "plunk test" (dropped into the bare barrel.)
I load RN ammo to 1.27" OAL and the 200 SWC's to 1.25"
Have fun!

 

[Blue68f100]

Is there anything i need to know or special caveats for 45acp? Other than ill need to change out my primer feed tubes for large pistol?

You need to check your primers..... Fed, Speer and other now have 45acp with SMALL Primers.

I have found that WST is the best powder for the ACP. 4.8-5.1 for 200gr 1.225" OAL

 

[BYJO4]

I also use Bullseye and Unique for 45 ACP. Both give excellent accuracy.

 

[Walkalong]

45 ACP is one of the easiest to load. Lots of good loads in your load manual. Your powders both work fine

Yep, and I'll add W-231. Have fun.

 

[Furncliff]

If your experience with Unique has been good, that's a good start. I've had a few good groups with it, but I have trouble getting consistant metering with it. W231 is what I'm loading with today. I had an excellent group with it yesterday out of a 1911, and it meters nicely for me. An additional benefit was that it grouped well at 4.8 gr under a plated 200 gr rn bullet., For bullets I'm trying out the RN plated bullets from Berry and Reinier in 230 and 200gr..As well as some Hornaday XTP in 185 and 230. Many here buy their lead bullets from Missouri Bullet Co. I plan to try them soon.

I needed a separate crimp die on my Hornaday LNL AP to get my loads to feed correctly.

 

[Cherokee]

I'll add that 231Win is the powder I use 90% of the time for 45 ACP and have for over 30 years. Never cared for Bullseye and Unique did not impres me like 231.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I have to agree, I also feel W231 is the best powder for loading the 45 Auto.

As for bullets why not give a try to 230gr LRN bullets. They have the correct profile and are cheaper to shoot than FMJ bullets. That's what I shoot.

 

[Sunray]

"...special caveats..." Only that you can't roll crimp. Taper crimp only.
My Colt likes cast 230 grain RN's or FP's(Flat Points) with 4.5 grains of Bullseye. Nice, accurate, target load.
Jacketed bullets are far too expensive to shoot regularly. Plated bullets use cast bullet data.

 

[raddiver]

Only that you can't roll crimp. Taper crimp only

That's nice considering Hornady was nice enough to give me a roll crimp seater combo.

Looks like ill have another die purchase in my future then.

 

[Walkalong]

Buy a Redding taper crimp die. they are really nice. Problem solved.

 

[raddiver]

If i want to do them in the LNL i think im going to have to go with a seater/crimp combo as i refuse to ditch the powder cop.
Unless i go with a powder through expander combo.
Or i just load on the turret. Decisions decisions.

 

[raddiver]

Lyman 49th page 380 says use a taper if necessary.
Looking at the Hornady 7th edition.... Page 897 very last sentence..... Do i really need a separate crimp die then?

 

[Steve H]

My go to plinking round, 6.0 Unique over a 230 FMJ.

 

[Walkalong]

If i want to do them in the LNL i think im going to have to go with a seater/crimp combo as i refuse to ditch the powder cop.

That will work just fine. In auto calibers there is so little bullet movement while the tiny bit of crimp is applied that it will not cause any problems at all.

Same for the revolver calibers as long as it is a light taper crimp.

If you want a heavy taper crimp on a caliber like .38 Spl or .357, then you must crimp in a step after seating.

 

[raddiver]

I dont know if anyone else has loaded for the SR1911 yet, but 5.6 grains of unique with a 230 FMJ RN 1.230 OAL seemed to do the trick for mine.

It's a basic recipe as i haven't played with the OAL yet (just took what was in the Hornady 7th edition)

Steve H I tried the 6.0 grains of unique (i had worked up from 5.2 to 6.0 in .2 increments), it just seemed really hard on the slide. It was kicking the shells out 7 or 8 feet. The difference between 5.6 and 6.0 is night and day.

 

[raddiver]

Ok im back.
And kinda of at a loss.

The beginning run of reloads in this thread were hornady 230g FMJ-RN's.
The OAL for these, i set to 1.230" and they all went in the barrel nicely.

With those shot, i though it was time to buy in bulk. So i picked up 500 Zero 230G HP's. I had heard that these should be used with Hornady load data, but i haven't been able to confirm that.

I cannot get these to chamber, rotate, and fall freely at anything more than ~1.192".

Does this seem too short?

Im using unique and start from 5.2 in .2 increments.

 

[Walkalong]

The beginning run of reloads in this thread were hornady 230g FMJ-RN's.

230 Gr RN bullets should be loaded at around 1.260 to 1.265 O.A.L., but Hornady 230 Gr TrFP's should be loaded at 1.230.

I have loaded the Zero 230 Gr JHP at 1.245 O.A.L. with excellent results.

Are you saying they will not go freely in your chamber at more than 1.192? Yes, that sounds short.

 

[hAkron]

Hodgdon HP-38 is the same powder as Win 231, if you you plan to go that route pickup which ever one is cheaper.

 

[raddiver]

Thats what I'm saying. At 1.220 100% of them stick ( you can see the ring on the bullet where the rifling starts)
@ 1.200 it's about 50%
@ 1.195 it's about 10%
But all seem to chamber freely at about 1.192-3

 

[Walkalong]

I guess the next thing to do is load a few and see is if they will feed at that O.A.L. I would also back the data down a hair at that length.

 

[Lost Sheep]

That's nice considering Hornady was nice enough to give me a roll crimp seater combo.

Looks like ill have another die purchase in my future then.

You should be able to use the crimp/seat die just fine, even though it CAN do a roll crimp, doesn't mean you HAVE to. Just back the body of the die out so that there is no roll. The beginning of the roll will apply enough taper and tension to retain the bullet without rolling in the case walls and closing the mouth of the case.

It just means that the cartridge case length is critical. But then, because of headspacing on the case mouth, it was always critical.

Lost Sheep

 

[Walkalong]

It just means that the cartridge case length is critical.

Yep, it is a pain trying to "taper crimp" without a proper taper crimp die, or a proper taper crimp built into a seater. It is much better to buy a die with a proper taper crimp, either a seater or a separate crimp die, simply because it just works so much better.