Nickel Plating Revolver?

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jstein650

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Recently picked up a new Taurus M66. I had ordered this inline, and thought I was getting a 'blued' revolver. Turns out it is 'matte black'. Sort of a bead blasted version of a blued finish. It's OK for now, but I was wondering about getting it electroless nickeled at some point. My questions involve build up. The side plate fitting is so close, do they nickel with it installed? The cylinder gap is very tight now, is the forcing cone face plated as well? How about the inside of the barrel?
Just wondering if anyone has had this done. Peeling an issue?
I have a question in to an online company that does this (not Robar) but no response yet.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
I think you'd be FAR better off selling your Taurus and buying a nickel plated S&W than paying someone to polish off the matte finish and plate it. This unfired model 15 set me back $750 last fall.

IMG_6658b.jpg
 
That's a pretty gun!.. I'm wasn't so much looking for a bright nickel finish necessarily, just that it seems like a more attractive alternative to the matte black. I'd be OK with a satin or dull finish if it were of a stainless or nickel appearance . Mahovsky's offers an inexpensive EN nickel and something they call Metalife (SS Chromium M?). Robar has some very nice NP3, NP3Plus, etc. offerings, but they are a pretty expensive..
 
Dont do electroless. It won't hold up. Standard Nickel electroplating runs in the $300-$400 range . Might not be worth it for that gun. Nutmeg sports did this one for $350 polishing included and it was a matte blue to begin with. Fords refinishing has one of my other guns right now . About the same price.

OX9pyH.jpg
 
The bright nickel plating does build up. If the tolerances are tight now it may not be able to function. I got a Savage 1917 that is plated. Took some work on the internals to get it to function. Next, I've looked at some nickel plated revolvers where the plating that flaked off around the cylinder from firing I guess. I like the looks but not the way the plating holds up.
 
yugorpk said:
Dont do electroless. It won't hold up.

Interesting theory. Where did you get your information? It's pretty much the exact opposite of standard industry and engineering practice. Electrlytic nickel is infamous for cracking and peeling, while many of the toughest finishes on guns (NP3, etc) are based on the electroless process.

http://advancedplatingtech.com/plating-topics/advantages-electroless-electrolytic-nickel/

What are the advantages of electroless nickel over traditional electrolytic nickel?

Electroless nickel (EN) has several distinct advantages over electrolytic nickel deposits. EN is an amorphous alloy of nickel and phosphorous. The addition of phosphorous provides the deposit with more corrosion resistance, less magnetic properties and a low coefficient of friction. The application of post-plate heat treatment causes the formation of nickel phosphides at grain boundaries which hardens the deposit. Because the deposit doesn’t require the application of an external electrical reduction force (DC rectifier or power supply) to create the deposit, but uses a chemical reducing agent within the solution chemistry, the deposit is extremely uniform in thickness.
 
Interesting theory. Where did you get your information? It's pretty much the exact opposite of standard industry and engineering practice. Electrlytic nickel is infamous for cracking and peeling, while many of the toughest finishes on guns (NP3, etc) are based on the electroless process.

http://advancedplatingtech.com/plating-topics/advantages-electroless-electrolytic-nickel/
Your experience with electroless is different than mine or you are going by what you have read on the internet from vendors. Ive had 2 guns in the last 30 years that were electroless nickel plated and both flaked and peeled within 2 years. One was so bad I had to strip the entire gun and have it blued after half the barrel peeled off. Also the electroless plating was nowhere near as good looking as polished and electroplated guns. Electroless looks good for matte finishes that don't take a polish but on shiny guns it pales in comparison to real electroplating. Its cheaper to do thats for use since there is a lot of expense involved in setting up a commercial electroplating setup . If real electroplating was crap compared to electroless it would have gone away a long time ago.
 
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Recently picked up a new Taurus M66. I had ordered this inline, and thought I was getting a 'blued' revolver. Turns out it is 'matte black'. Sort of a bead blasted version of a blued finish. It's OK for now, but I was wondering about getting it electroless nickeled at some point. My questions involve build up. The side plate fitting is so close, do they nickel with it installed? The cylinder gap is very tight now, is the forcing cone face plated as well? How about the inside of the barrel?
Just wondering if anyone has had this done. Peeling an issue?
I have a question in to an online company that does this (not Robar) but no response yet.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
My opinion? Get accustomed to what you have. Either electroless nickel or electro plated nickel, if done right, will likely cost you more than the gun is worth. The prep work alone would be expensive. Again, that is to do it correctly.

Just My Take....
Ron
 
I'd go with....

.......mahovsky's hard chrome(metalife). Shoot the gun and make sure you like it first and that it's a keeper for you. It's not an expensive gun. You'll pay almost as much for the finish as the gun. You'll never get your money back later if you don't like the gun.

I have two guns finished by mahovsky. One is a FEG Hi Power clone and the other is an Asra A70. Not expensive guns. I'll never get my money back for what's into them. But I don't care because they function very well and now they're set up just as I like with a beadblast finished chrome for carry. A quick wipe with some Ballistol every now and again plus regular maintenance with shooting, I never worry about rust.

IMHO, I think that a satin finish would be nice on a Taurus 66.
 
Thanks folks.. Glad I posted this. All good experienced feedback and ideas..
Will do what the budget offers along with how this finish wears, or wears on me.

Thanks...
 
I think you'd be FAR better off selling your Taurus and buying a nickel plated S&W than paying someone to polish off the matte finish and plate it. This unfired model 15 set me back $750 last fall.

IMG_6658b.jpg
+1

Good idea. BTW: those are some of the best looking, coolest grips I have EVER seen on a revolver.
 
jstein650

Another recommendation for Ron Mahosky's SS Chromium Metalife. It is hard chrome plating not electroless nickel. I had it done to my Beretta Model 70S many years ago (problem with the original bluing from Beretta and then again after they had reblued it under warranty), and it still looks as great today as it did when I got it back from being refinished. This gun has been my constant companion on many a hike through the backwoods as well as being one of the guns I use for handgun training.

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Both finishes have their advantages and disadvantages. Nickel is a bit softer than hard chrome but it covers more evenly and is more corrosion resistant. Hard chrome is a bit harder and is more abrasion resistant. Another thing that has to be taken into account is the difference in color. Nickel has more of a warm, bronze hue. Hard chrome is a colder, blushing, whiter finish. Here's one of each:

IMG_8088b.jpg
 
Here is a picture of a stainless steel S&W model 63, a nickel plated H&R 999 Sportsman and a Colt Diamondback with Metalife hard chrome brushed finish.

B4D49F32-FE8E-4145-8E49-D9F39C40A71F_zpswe0bqerv.jpg
 
Personally, if you are going to refinish that gun, I would suggest brushed hard chrome. I had a gun that was hard chromed and it was fantastic...very easy to clean as well. Fouling just wiped right out.
 
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