Hi guys, I'm new to firearms and also new to this forum. I got a hi power handed down to me and I know the basics of field stripping etc, but I don't really know what to use to clean or what parts to clean. I've looked at some vids on YouTube and got mixed advice. What is the proper way of cleaning/lubing and also on what parts? I've noticed some ppl put lube in the barrel and some don't. What about the firing pin? How do I clean that without detail stripping? What about the reciever? Any advice would be highly appreciated thanks.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Noob- need cleaning advice
- Thread starter LaDave
- Start date
- Status
-
Not open for further replies.
Ragnar Danneskjold
Member
Handguns are pretty straight forward.
Take the magazine out, clear the weapon, go put the ammo someplace away from where you're cleaning and clear the weapon a second time to be sure.
Clear the weapon a third time.
Youtube how to field strip it if you don't already know how. Once you get it broken down into the slide, barrel, recoil spring/guide rod, and frame, do the following.
Give everything a light scrubbing using a nylon brush/tooth brush and Hoppe's #9 solvent (available at Wal-Mart, any sporting goods store, etc.) This will clean most of the soot, dirt, carbon, and old lube off the gun. Take a bronze brush and go over the barrel's feed ramp to get the hard carbon off there if there is any. Do the same with the bolt face (the part of the slide where the firing pin comes out of). Make sure you get anything that might be inside the little hook of the extractor. Use a clean dry cleaning patch to wipe everything off until it's clean. Cleaning the inside of the barrel of a handgun is not really that necessary that often, but if you do: 1: Run a cleaning patch with Hoppe's on it going the same direction the bullet travels. 2: Run a bronze barrel brush of the approprite size the same direction. 3: Run a dry clean patch also the same way. 4: Go back to step one and repeat until the patches come out free of black stuff.
Take a patch with a little Hoppe's on it and clean off the guide rod and spring. Be careful not to bend or warp the spring. Just give them a once over, no need to scrub.
You can run another patch with a light coating of lube down the barrel if you want. Some people feel this protects the steel and inhibits rust. It's not crucial, but it won't hurt if it gives you peace of mind. Use a very small amount. Apply small amounts of lube to the parts on the slide and frame where they meet and rub against each other. You don't need a lot, just so it shines with a wet sheen. Put the gun back together.
Clear the weapon again. Work the slide back and forth to get the lube where it needs to go. While the gun is clear and pointed someplace safe, dry fire it a few times to function test it (don't do this if it's a .22lr).
Clear the weapon again, and reload it safely.
Good lube to use: FP10. You can also get some RemOil to wipe down the surface of the gun when you're done cleaning it to protect it.
Take the magazine out, clear the weapon, go put the ammo someplace away from where you're cleaning and clear the weapon a second time to be sure.
Clear the weapon a third time.
Youtube how to field strip it if you don't already know how. Once you get it broken down into the slide, barrel, recoil spring/guide rod, and frame, do the following.
Give everything a light scrubbing using a nylon brush/tooth brush and Hoppe's #9 solvent (available at Wal-Mart, any sporting goods store, etc.) This will clean most of the soot, dirt, carbon, and old lube off the gun. Take a bronze brush and go over the barrel's feed ramp to get the hard carbon off there if there is any. Do the same with the bolt face (the part of the slide where the firing pin comes out of). Make sure you get anything that might be inside the little hook of the extractor. Use a clean dry cleaning patch to wipe everything off until it's clean. Cleaning the inside of the barrel of a handgun is not really that necessary that often, but if you do: 1: Run a cleaning patch with Hoppe's on it going the same direction the bullet travels. 2: Run a bronze barrel brush of the approprite size the same direction. 3: Run a dry clean patch also the same way. 4: Go back to step one and repeat until the patches come out free of black stuff.
Take a patch with a little Hoppe's on it and clean off the guide rod and spring. Be careful not to bend or warp the spring. Just give them a once over, no need to scrub.
You can run another patch with a light coating of lube down the barrel if you want. Some people feel this protects the steel and inhibits rust. It's not crucial, but it won't hurt if it gives you peace of mind. Use a very small amount. Apply small amounts of lube to the parts on the slide and frame where they meet and rub against each other. You don't need a lot, just so it shines with a wet sheen. Put the gun back together.
Clear the weapon again. Work the slide back and forth to get the lube where it needs to go. While the gun is clear and pointed someplace safe, dry fire it a few times to function test it (don't do this if it's a .22lr).
Clear the weapon again, and reload it safely.
Good lube to use: FP10. You can also get some RemOil to wipe down the surface of the gun when you're done cleaning it to protect it.
Last edited:
JTQ
Member
Here is my first stop if I have Hi-Power questions. The late Mr. Camp's excellent Hi-Powers and Handguns site.
http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/
The only different recommendation from the above post is I only use Clean Lubricate and Protect (CLP) type products on my pistols. BreakFree is one example, but there are many more such as Ballistol, SLIP 2000, WeaponShield, Frog Lube, and the aforementioned FP-10 (WeaponShield by the way is the updated formula of FP-10 from the creator of FP-10), and many others. Many of those are also non-toxic and I generally look for those.
http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/
The only different recommendation from the above post is I only use Clean Lubricate and Protect (CLP) type products on my pistols. BreakFree is one example, but there are many more such as Ballistol, SLIP 2000, WeaponShield, Frog Lube, and the aforementioned FP-10 (WeaponShield by the way is the updated formula of FP-10 from the creator of FP-10), and many others. Many of those are also non-toxic and I generally look for those.
Last edited:
Certaindeaf
member
^
It certainly wouldn't hurt. Do you have an air compressor or canned air? Best to blow the begotten crud out and kinda dry it at the same time.
It certainly wouldn't hurt. Do you have an air compressor or canned air? Best to blow the begotten crud out and kinda dry it at the same time.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
No.can i just spray some gun scrubber and let it sit for a few minutes then wipe it clean?
Not unless you take the wood grips off first.
Use an old toothbrush and Q-Tips to reach down in the places the toothbrush won't reach.
Follow with a bore cleaner wet patch and wipe it down.
rc
JTQ
Member
I suppose you could, if that's the way you normally clean a pistol. Remember, everything that degreaser stuff hits you need to make sure you put some oil back on.can i just spray some gun scrubber and let it sit for a few minutes then wipe it clean?
It never made sense to me to degrease a pistol I spend some time and money putting lube on. Unless I was refinishing the pistol or applying sight paint, I can't think of a reason to degrease a pistol. Find a CLP product you like and just use that.
- Status
-
Not open for further replies.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 9
- Views
- 3K
- Replies
- 5
- Views
- 1K
- Replies
- 4
- Views
- 588
- Replies
- 21
- Views
- 1K
