NORINCO 1911 Steel - How hard to mill?

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The slides on mine are pretty hard, but I think a standard (non-carbide) cutter should do the trick.

Jim
 
Think so, Jim? I keep hearing folks say how gunsmiths get pissed because the gunwork on Norincos dulls their cutters.

I hope they were griping about HSS cutters and that carbide will go right through, but thought I'd better get some input before making a mess of it.
 
I keep hearing folks say how gunsmiths get pissed because the gunwork on Norincos dulls their cutters.

Yes, I see that, too, and I usually chuckle when I read it. It's one of those things that gets repeated, but you never hear it from the source. But I've never met a gunsmith/machinist who ever made a deal about it (and I've talked to a few in great detail over the years). I think the point really is that people are surprised it's hard forged steel on (what was) an inexpensive gun in the day (eary '90s). I've had work done on my Norinco, and even done some cutting myself on one. It is no harder than other quality forged steel.

What do you have and what are you planning on doing to it?
 
So it's another net rumor is all, Oro? That's good news!

I have an unused Yost-Bonitz sight that the Norinco 1911 NEEDS :)

I bought five of them during a sale in Midway - the price to me was $16. each as best I remember. It needs a "YoBo" cut that's not too complicated and sets the sight down to nearly level in the slide. I like it and it's designed sorta' like the 10-8 version that allows for a shelf that can be used to one hand rack the slide.

Maybe it's my cheap HSS dovetail bits but I had a slow cut in a GI slide where it seemed like the bit was pushing instead of cutting. A carbide went right through so if the Norinco is no harder than a USGI of WW2 vintage I won't have a problem.
 
I've installed sights, that require milling, on a number of Norinco slides.
The only HARD area I have found is at the front sight. I've found evidence of silver-solder in this area.
I believe too much heat was applied and allowed to cool too quickly. This will definitely cause a localized hard spot.
The way to deal with it, is to anneal the area before any milling. Of course this destroys the bluing in this area.
 
Thanks Chuck, I'll do that. The bluing loss won't be a problem.

I scratched around the front sight tang inside the slide and it looks like silver solder WAS used. I had begun to wonder if the original sight had been milled from the slide stock it was so immovable.

Solder and a quick quench.
 
KRS - I see Chuck has already answered as to the one odd spot - the very one you are working on! Are you a gunsmith, or a machinist and doing some work on your own gun?
 
I wouldn't make claim of being either, but yes, I work on my own guns.

I've got a pretty good manual machine shop here built up over some years and can operate the machine tools fairly well, tooling and setup permitting, and have made sight cuts before now.

Thing is that this particular sight requires a 65 degree dovetail and I've got just one carbide bit with that capability, pending shipment from EGW shipment due any day, and didn't want to lose it unnecessarily by just diving into a steel wall so to speak..

I've got two other slides that are good fits to the Norinco frame but didn't want to use one if I can cut the original. I'd seen these testimonials to the hardness of the thing... but think I'm good on it now. I'll get back to that one in a few days probably - something else has come up now.
 
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