NP3 Long Term Wear

[GDownRange]

At some point I'm going to send a handgun off to Robar for thier NP3 finish. I'm justifying the cost by saying the gun will be a fishing/hiking carry piece, but in reality I just want a gun with an NP3 finish.

Back in the mid 90's I almost had a revolver refinished with NP3. I didn't go through with it, and have been thinking about owning a gun with NP3 ever since. Did any of you show more moxie than me, and go with NP3 20 years ago? I'm curious about how the finish holds up to long term wear.

I did a Google search, but didn't come up with any solid info.

Are any HighRoaders willing to give testimonial on decades of NP3 wear? As always words are good, but words with pictures are great.

 

[dave from mesa]

I had my 45acp 1911 done many years ago when I shot it in IPSC open class. Now it is back to stock. Don't even know how many rounds have been thru it. LOTS.
Still don't see any real wear on it, even on the slide rails. Have 2 other guns that I want done. Not cheap but it seems to last forever.
Will try and post a pic later.

 

[C0untZer0]

Although I don't have any experience with it, according to Robar, NP3+ is even better

 

[BSA1]

Not with NP3 but with electroless nickel on a revolver. Held up great, never peeled or discolored, never rusted even under the grips and excellent job resisting holster wear.

I have been considering for sometime now having a stainless steel 1911 either hardchromed or NP3'd as I think it would make a ultimate rust resistant gun but we are a long ways away from salt water here in Kansas.

 

[iflyem1]

I had a SIG NP3 in 1995. Still looks new. It was my EDC for many years.

 

[19-3Ben]

but we are a long ways away from salt water here in Kansas.

Do you sweat? Even never being near salt water, I have guns (even a stainless Sig) that showed freckling after carry on hot summer days.

 

[dave from mesa]

Well I shot alot in Richmond, CA right by the SF bay. Sweaty hands and all. One thing it is a slippery surface.
Not a bit of rust. No flaking not even on the slide rails. In fact the only thing I have noticed is that the finish has gotten darker with age and shooting.

[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[19-3Ben]

While we're at it, and not to derail the OP's thread at all, if anyone has long term experience with an NP3 finished revolver, I'd love to know how the finish holds up at the BC gap along the forcing cone, top strap, and cylinder face. Especially if shot with .357mag or other high pressure round.

As opposed to a semi-auto where it's not directly exposed to the flame and pressure of the round, these areas of a revolver do see those forces and I'd be interested to see if NP3 withstands them.

 

[Twiki357]

I would also like to know how it holds up on a revolver. Could be a good replacement for bubba’s Krylon finish on the model 10 I recently acquired.

 

[gbw]

I don't know if NP3 is the same or not, but...

I had a Colt S70 done many years ago in Armaloy, which is an industrial hard chrome applied electrically very thin, at about .0003" if I recall. It has held up very well, many many thousands of rounds through the gun. The gun was tight and very smooth to begin with and notably smoother after plating.

There has been no flaking and wear just makes it appear shiny, although I suppose it could have worn through - I don't know how to tell for sure. The inside of the barrel was plated also and the leade area looks fine.

It will permit rust to start if neglected but it's far more rust resistant than bluing, and much depends on the condition of the base metal before plating.

Very satisfied overall and I'd happily use it again. If I had a steel revolver I wanted for carry I'd first get it exactly as I wanted it, and then get it plated. But honestly I'd probably just choose a well tuned stainless model.

 

[RustyShackelford]

PA Fish Commission surplus...

In 02/1997 I purchased a NIB/unfired surplus Beretta 96D .40S&W from a small gun shop near Pittsburgh PA. It was $581.00 USD, . The pistol had NP3 with 03 Beretta .40 magazines(NP3 on all 3). The Beretta 96D also had new Trijicon 3 dot green night sights and Farrar black rubber grips(with a Beretta logo).
The pistol was intended for big LE contract with the Pennsylvania Fish Commission(which at the time, I knew almost nothing about ).
The gun shop manager informed me the state police & other smaller sworn state agencies extended the order for NP3 Beretta Police Special models so they sold the surplus to local distributors/FFL holders.
I owned, carried(CCW at the time) & shot the .40 for several years.
I used Ballistol mostly to clean-oil it. I had zero problems with the NP3 96D pistol. It feed and cycled both FMJs and factory JHPs w/o any misfires.
The only minor wear I ever had were some spots on the 96D barrel where the slide moved back & forth over it. The frame & 3 NP3 magazines held up fine.
Id get NP3 again on a weapon but Id upgrade to the Robar NP3+.
Id also consider Ceracote. The coating in addition to a layer of Armor Clear could provide years of service without wear/scuffs/scratches. Many Ceracote application centers or shops offer lifetime service plans too. It costs about the same as Robar's NP3+.

Rusty
PS: The PA Fish Commission later asked the gun shop where I got my 96D for them to sell it back to state office but the manager said I already bought it.

 

[Snowdog]

Electroless nickel "with ptfe/Teflon"may be similar. I have a few firearms with such finishes and I can tell you they wear well. I like the looks quite a bit, but like them for their corrosion resistance also. My '96 K9 with factory option electroless nickel has seen some serious perspiration and holster draws/reholstering over the years and looks great still.