Old RCBS powder measure, new reloader.

[jr_roosa]

My dad and I just got his old reloading gear set up in my workshop, and we reloaded my first box of .45ACP. It went pretty well and now I'm hooked.

The 30-year-old powder measure (an RCBS model, looks like the current Uniflow) has just enough light corrosion on the cylinder to make it catch from time to time when throwing a charge.

Oil sounds like a bad idea since the powder will stick to it. Lightly polishing it with some fine steel wool also sounds like trouble.

Any suggestions? Should I load up a few boxes, wait for a busy month at work, and send it back to RCBS for some refurb? Is it likely to smooth out with use?

Thanks for your help.

-J.

 

[CBS220]

Call RCBS. They have a great warranty and stellar customer support!

I'm more of a Lee/Hornady person, and all of the big reloading companies have good customer support, but RCBS will go out of their way to set things right, from my experience.

 

[SASS#23149]

some good powder measures like yours are fitted so tightly that they will cut grains of powder,causing a 'catch' like you describe.

 

[Idano]

Remove the plunger and clean the rotor lightly with steel wool to remove the rust. I wouldn't use any oil but I would wipe it down when your done with a silicon rag to remove any oil from your fingers or else they will cause rust in time,

 

[Slamfire]

Might want to buff with crocus cloth. The sheets I use are red, must have Jeweler's rouge on it. I get mine from Auto Stores, Home Depot.

 

[rcmodel]

I agree with the above.

What you are feeling is powder grains getting cut between the rotor drum and the housing.

It is common with all brands of rotary drum measures from any manufacture. Especially with stick type rifle powder.

Clean the surface rust with fine steel wool, and apply a coat of Johnson's Paste Floor Wax to prevent further rusting or powder contamination from oils.

DO NOT use sandpaper or other course abrasive that will change tolerances.

rcmodel

 

[jr_roosa]

I don't think it is all powder, because it's just as rough without anything in the hopper...although I suppose cutting the powder grains isn't helping the issue.

I'll take it apart and clean out what I can. I have an e-mail in to RCBS so we'll see what they say.

I'll find some polishing cloth and a silicone cloth too and see if that helps any.

Thanks for the advice!

-J.

 

[308win]

Clean the drum and outside bearing surfaces with 0000 steel wool and kerosene or a light oil to carry away the rust. When rust free wipe down with acetone, alcohol, or any volatile solvent to clean off lubricant residue. RCBS will do something - up to and including free replacement - from my experience with them.

 

[dagger dog]

jr,
If you want to try "lubing" use powder graphite, after the cleaning described in the previous posts.But I'm leaning towards the crunching catching, being the powder granules being cut.

 

[Idano]

we reloaded my first box of .45ACP

Guys I am guessing that the powder jr_roosa is using is either ball or flake and not extruded so I doubt that the friction he is feeling is the grains being cut. I have two Uniflows and one Hornady and I don't feel any "catch from time to time when throwing a charge". I am betting that there is a bur or bit of rust between the rotor and the housing. I liked SlamFire1 idea of using with crocus cloth rather then steel wool as I had suggested and also working some graphite through it afterwords like dagger dog recommended.

 

[308win]

When I throw stick in my Uniflow I can routinely feel and hear the sticks being cut by the edge of the cavity in the drum. Occasionally, more than one stick will get caught between the edge of the drum and the frame and it will take a lot more effort to cut the powder. I always dump those cases and recharge them as they are always quite a bit off on the charge.

 

[rcmodel]

Steel wool is best as it will get down in the grain of the cast iron frame mo-better.

rcmodel

 

[tbtrout]

I have bought a few Uniflows from E bay in rough shape for dirt cheap. I scrubbed them down with Hoppes and 0000 steel wool, washed off in mineral spirits, and polished with crocus cloth. The cylinders are smoother than my new ones

I use one for IMR 4895 and have not had inconsistant charges due to cutting the sticks. I use a powder baffle in each measure..

 

[308win]

Like TBTrout I have had good results with stick powder by using a baffle. Being a cheap SOB, I make mine out of 2 liter bottle caps and I use them for stick, flake, and ball powder.

 

[Slamfire]

I make mine out of 2 liter bottle caps

You have a picture?. These must not be 2 liter coke bottle caps, because I cannot imagine where they would fit. I am wondering how big, and how you got them in.

 

[308win]

I used a soft drink bottle - probably Coke - and cut out wedges (three or four) from the rim to the top of the lid. The wedges are about 3/8 inches wide at the rim. I will take pictures when I get home this evening and post them - if I don't forget or someone doesn't beat me to it. The baffle keeps the powder from settling/packing and gives a more uniform throw.

Drop the baffle in the hopper and use a screw driver (or something) to orient the baffle; the weight of the powder keeps the baffle in place. The baffle doesn't fit into the outlet hole from the hopper to the charge, rather it rests on bottom of the hopper.