One more stock refinishing thread...

[Jason M]

I am going to refinish the stock on my Tranditions (Fausti) O/U shotgun. It has some nice grain patterns that would look great with a nice oil finish.

So, questions:

1. There does not appear to be much in the way of a finish on the wood now, but what cleaners/solvents should I use on the wood first to remove whatever finish may be there?

2. I am going to do the typical 100/220/400/600 grit sand paper smoothing. What sort of sanding sealer or grain filler should I use? Are there good commercially available products (like @ Lowes, Home Depot, etc.)?

3. I am considering a Linseed oil finish. Should I finish the stock in something like Tru-Oil first to bring out the Walnut’s color a little before the Linseed finish is applied?

4. Should I do any sanding in between oil applications or merely just let it dry between applications?

5. Last, would a lint-free cloth be the best applicator for the Tru-Oil and Linseed oil?

Thanks!

 

[rcmodel]

Linseed oil should not be used.

It takes months to completely dry and will remain tacky feeling for a long long time.

Use Tru-Oil from start to finish. (No pun intended)
It is linseed oil, but contains polymers & dryers to kick it over into full cure much faster.

There is another thread right by yours concerning block sanding between coats.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=391270

In general, Tru-Oil will dry ready for wet sanding between coats, in 24 hours unless you have very high humidity.

rcmodel

 

[Sunray]

Wood is wood. Use the same products and techniques used on fine furniture.
Don't use linseed oil. Use Boiled Linseed Oil(BLO) or tung oil.
BLO gives a flat finish. Tung oil, when properly rubbed in, gives a shiney, waterproof, finish. If you opt for tung oil, stain first. There's no restaining a tung oil finish after the first application(takes several coats with 24 hour's drying time between coats).

 

[Jason M]

Thanks for the heads up about linseed oil. I want the finish to be a little on the shiny side, so I may go with the Tung oil.

 

[rcmodel]

Tru-Oil can look just like water or glass if you want it too, and don't rub out the last coat.

rcmodel

 

[1KPerDay]

Read up on Tung oil before you use it... it irritates some people's skin (like where your cheek touches the stock) FYI.

 

[rcmodel]

I use Tung oil on Grandfather Clock cases.

However, Tru-Oil is just so easy, fast & foolproof, I have never looked for a better stock finish.

I've used it with perfect results since 1962 when I built my first rifle.
And I can think of no reason to change or experiment with something else at this late stage of the game!

Did I mention I use Tung oil on Grandfather clocks!

rcmodel

 

[CRITGIT]

Tung oil is cheaper and more forgiving. Most tung oil products today contain very little real tung oil.
Min Wax is a goodin' as is McCloskeys

CRITGIT

 

[Zedo]

Before you go nutz on the sandpaper, be advised that "sanding" changes the fit and size of the stock.

You want to remove the existing finish -- with a chemical stripper, and soft rags, light steel wool.

Sanding alters the fit and you'll find that the reciever and butt plate end up sitting "proud" (oversized) in the wood after "sanding."

The stock has been precisely fitted to the reciever by a gunsmith at the factory. Any sanding on the wood is going to alter that fit.

 

[Ithacaman]

Try this product for beautiful gunstock finish

I swear by Arrow Wood Finish.

http://mpi.websitewizard.com/ModShow/ShowPage/122375

It's on my whole collection. It's not the fastest but it is long-lasting and durable.

Ithacaman