Ontario combat knife dated 9-87 info

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bk42261

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I got a "combat" style knife .

The only marking on it is ONTARIO 9-87 on the butt of the side of the 6-sided hilt (Sorry if wrong terminology)

Approximate 5" blade, saw tooth on back edge, leather handle.

Leather sheath with metal backing, honing stone compartment with stone included..

I can't find any knife looking anything like this on the Ontario site, and wondered if any of you could help with an ID on this
 
It is what is known as a 'Jet Pilots Survival Knife'.

Commonly issued to pilots, flight crews, helicopter pilots, etc.
Not necessarily 'Jet Pilots'.

They yellowish white paint on the butt used to glow in the dark.

Rc
 
I have read that the saw teeth were intended to cut plexiglass rather than wood. Be that as it may, they do not work well on wood, in my experience.

I always liked these knives, they were tough and took a decent edge and seemed just the right size for utility use. They can be improved by reducing the size of the crossguard a bit. The steel butt works nicely as a little hammer in a pinch.
 
I thought the design of the teeth on the spine of the blade was intended to go through aluminum airplane cockpits.
 
I had one when I was a kid, that thing cut through everything I put it against. It took an edge quick and held it for a long time, and the back would saw through bamboo like it was bitter. It would be a good workshop/yard knife if nothing else. I think I got mine at the local surplus store/flea market.
 
The original Jet Pilots Survival knife developed in 1957 by Marbles, in cooperation with the Navy Aeronautics Bureau had a 6" blade.

Requirements included:
* Being able to chop through dense underbrush.
* Be able to drive a nail through a 2" board.
* Be able to saw through an aircraft or helicopter aluminum skin.
* Have an over-size guard to protect the users hand from sharp metal edges.

In 1962, the blade length was shortened to 5" following complaints from pilots about the knife jabbing them in all the odd places because it was too long.

Marbles had suggested the 5" length in 1954, but was over-ruled by the Navy board!

All later knives had a 5" blade, and metal plates were added to the sheath to prevent the tip from stabbing through the leather sheath when subjected to high G-Load or violent impact in 1960 something?

So, the saw teeth were designed to cut aluminum aircraft skin, not plexiglas, or 2"x4"'s, or steel car doors.

That makes them most capable of opening Coor's beer cans in an emergency, which most of them were used for that I ever noticed.

There is at least one anecdotal story of a shot down Huey helicopter crew in Vietnam being able to saw through the skin and get out the back side of the aircraft while being attacked by enemy troops from the other side.

All I know is, I would sure hate to try it!
There is a lot more stuff under an aircraft skin then just the thin aluminum skin!

Rc
 
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I have one. There may be better survival knives, but for under $50 it is a lot of knife for the money.
 
I bought mine at the AN store in the mid eighties.
Came to me dull as a butter knife.
I sharpened it and it has been a fantastic knife.
Not flashy.
Not Rambo-esque.
Not mall-ninja or internet commando approved.
Not tacticool.
Just a damned tough knife that takes a damned good edge, holds it well, and is easy to hone.
Of all the knives I've owned, it is my favorite hunting knife and general outdoors knife.
 
I lucked into a blade for one of these. It has never been assembled into a knife.
It is Parkerized, but does not have an edge.

I've been trying to decide what handle material to use.
I can make a guard and pommel easily enough.
What I can't seem to do is decide on the hilt.
Thought about black Delrin rod with grooves turned in it.
Even thought about cutting grooves lengthwise in it, in the shaper.
Kind of like how the old pineapple grenades looked.
Should be easy enough to do and give a good grip.

I'd considered stacked leather washers, but that would be just like every other one.
I also have some nice red cedar and mahogany that would make good handles.
I could make them in two pieces with a tang groove routed the length of each.
Epoxy them together and to the tang, with a brass or steel pin run through both halves and the hole in the tang.

Just a thought.

I also have some "Midnight" (I think that's the name of the color) Corian I could use.
 
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