I'm not aware of the P365 or P365XL having these issues. Is that correct?
No drop firing issues or other unintended firing issues that I am aware of.
Early on Sig did change the extractor design. From what I could tell, the modification would make it easier to manually chamber a round and more reliably extract a round from the firing chamber.
No extractor failure malfunction issues that I am aware of. But if you polish the leading beveled edge of the extractor it makes manual chambering easier.
Sig changed the shape of the disconnector. Not sure if there was a problem or not.
These are the actual issues that I am aware of:
Early production had a batch of bad strikers allegedly improperly heat treated with firing pins that would break off. Appears to be only one bad batch of strikers. Not an issue with present production.
Primer drag. Not sure if this actually caused any malfunctions, but Sig redesigned the striker firing pin with a beveled tip that appears to cure the issue. Not an issue with present production.
There was an aftermarket company making CNC milled strikers, but they also had quality control issues.
Light primer strikes. This was caused by a one piece retaining bushing that was too thick. It can be cured by using the original two piece retainer bushing, or by sanding one side of the one piece retainer bushing. Not an issue with present production.
Failure to return to battery malfunction. Mostly due to friction issues because the breechface, the left adjacent wall to the breechface, and the underside of the striker claw were too rough. The brass shell cases will eventually polish the steel after many thousands of rounds fired. But if you don't want an extended break-in period, wet sanding with ultra fine sandpaper will cure the issue quickly.
Trigger grittiness. Continues to be an issue. However, most the the grittiness greatly reduces during the break-in period. Or you can polish the trigger linkage contact points and make the trigger pull very smoothly without going through a break-in period. This polishing does NOT affect the required trigger pull force and it does NOT affect the action of the trigger. It only makes it very smooth.
VERY difficult to retract the slide over a magazine loaded to capacity. Not sure how widespread the issue is, but other people have reported the same problem. The problem is cured with less than 10 minutes of wet sanding of the rough stripper rail with ultra fine sandpaper.
The recoil spring is only rated for 2,500 rounds. ISMI uses a more reliable manufacturing process for the recoil spring and they rate their springs for 5,000 rounds
The recoil spring can coil over itself and jam with as little as 200 rounds fired. I don't know how widespread the issue is. My solution was to use an aftermarket guide rod using an ISMI flat coil recoil spring which by design makes it impossible for the recoil spring to coil over itself. I carry with the ISMI recoil spring with a very low round count and practice with the original Sig recoil spring installed.
The web between your thumb and forefinger can catch on the corners of the XL beavertail during a draw. The cure is to wet sand a mild radius into the corners of the beavertail so that even if you grab the handgrip at the wrong angle, the web between your thumb and forefinger just glides over the beavertail. This sanding has no negative effects.
If the sear spring tangs are too short, or if someone incorrectly installs the sear spring, it will still work correctly. HOWEVER, if you remove the FCU parts can fall off. If the sear spring tangs are the correct length and the sear spring was installed correctly, you can remove the FCU and violently shake it and the parts will not fall off because there is spring loading on the parts.
Everything else is a personal preference issue.
I would have no hesitation buying a P365 series pistol today. The polishing work that I have outlined I just consider part of the break-in procedure. After all, this is not a hand finished $5,000 pistol. It's a $500 production pistol.