P365/XL Feedback Requested

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TomJ

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I was an early buyer of both the P365 and P365XL. The XL was for me the perfect carry gun, and I've yet to find a carry gun that I could shoot as accurately and get back on target as quickly as it, but they were plagued with the problems many experienced, most importantly light primer strikes and a failure to go into battery. I had them repaired/replaced and sold them as I lost confidence in them.

I understand that the issues they've had have been resolved and was wondering if anyone has experienced those issues with the newer builds. I've read through a number of threads regarding them and have seen nothing but positive reviews, which is encouraging. I keep coming back to the XL as the carry gun that checks all the boxes I'm looking for and would like to give it another try.
 
was wondering if anyone has experienced those issues with the newer builds.
No troubles with my 365X. Mind it's a Goldilocks for me--not too big, not too small, basically "just right."

Ok, so, somehow I'm good even if it does not have the curved trigger. I point it to where I need a 9mm diameter hole, and voilá, a hole appears. Often with a grin of satisfaction. The Romeo Zero sight may help in this, too.
 
I was a 1911 Commander size .45 carrier for years. I handled a 365xl one day in my lgs not long ago to see what all the fuss was about. I liked and I bought it. I have atleast 700 rounds through her and not one hiccup. Accurate and holds great groups out to 10yds. She carries well to. Let my wife shoot it one day and had to go get another so we have 2 in the stable and no issues.
 
I've had mine a couple of years..several hundred rounds down the pipe and not one issue.
 
Mine (P355) is relatively new, but checked it for all the historical issues after every range session.

no light primer strikes, no dragging primer, no spring scratch marks on the magazine. I check it after every range session. Few hundred freedom seeds through paper and could not be happier.

like JDeere, I was /am a 1911 carrier, but much less now that I’m a P365 owner.
 
The P365 firing pin has been redesigned. Part of the light primer strike issues were caused by the plastic spring retainer being too thick on one of the later spring retainer designs. You could either sand down one edge of the spring retainer on the newer design, or just use the early spring retainer design. I have had ZERO problems. I bought mine just before the 2020 election.

The failure to return to battery was caused by finishing issues leaving too much friction. Often firing a few boxes of ammo would cure the problem.

The root cause of the problem is the rough left adjacent wall to the breech face, the rough breech face, and the rough underside of the extractor.

Failure to Return To Battery Prevention - P365/X/XL/SAS
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...n-to-battery-prevention-p365-x-xl-sas.892742/

In addition, after you have broken in the gun, remove the recoil spring assembly, solvent clean it, relubricate it and reinstall it. You will be surprised at how much crud is inside.

I also use Milcom TW25B synthetic lube, which reduces friction further.

You cannot release the slide slowly enough on my P365X to prevent it from returning to battery. But you do need to keep the breech face clean, as the gunpowder residue on the breech face will increase the friction.
 
The P365 firing pin has been redesigned. Part of the light primer strike issues were caused by the plastic spring retainer being too thick on one of the later spring retainer designs. You could either sand down one edge of the spring retainer on the newer design, or just use the early spring retainer design. I have had ZERO problems. I bought mine just before the 2020 election.

The failure to return to battery was caused by finishing issues leaving too much friction. Often firing a few boxes of ammo would cure the problem.

The root cause of the problem is the rough left adjacent wall to the breech face, the rough breech face, and the rough underside of the extractor.

Failure to Return To Battery Prevention - P365/X/XL/SAS
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...n-to-battery-prevention-p365-x-xl-sas.892742/

In addition, after you have broken in the gun, remove the recoil spring assembly, solvent clean it, relubricate it and reinstall it. You will be surprised at how much crud is inside.

I also use Milcom TW25B synthetic lube, which reduces friction further.

You cannot release the slide slowly enough on my P365X to prevent it from returning to battery. But you do need to keep the breech face clean, as the gunpowder residue on the breech face will increase the friction.

I re-read your previous posts. Thanks for the detailed info. Have the issues and corrections you described been corrected by Sig or do you still see them as being helpful or necessary?
 
I had a bad sear in mine(XL), which showed up in the first 100 rounds. Returned and repaired. Has worked great ever since through 1,300+ rounds and several matches including the SIG EDC.

For competing I use the XL, long barrel, long grip, configuration, But for concealed carry I put the short, regular, 10 round grip on the XL slide. Gives me the added weight and barrel length but doesn't tend to print as much with the shorter grip.
 
I re-read your previous posts. Thanks for the detailed info. Have the issues and corrections you described been corrected by Sig or do you still see them as being helpful or necessary?

I think that Sig has got the striker issues dealt with.

But the return to battery issues are a matter of doing finer finishing work that Sig is not likely to do on a $600 gun. So you either polish the areas that I've mentioned, or shoot the crap out of your gun until the shell cases do the polishing. Cleaning the recoil spring assembly is just good maintenance. Every friction reduction helps a little bit and it all adds up.

You may not have a noticeable RTB problem during normal use, but if you pull the slide back slightly on most brand new P365s, the slide won't return to battery. Whereas, when you do the polishing you can not stop the slide from returning to battery. The polishing just gives you added safety margin. Some people will say that it's unnecessary work. But I want every reliability and performance improvement possible, so it's worth it for me to spend the time and effort.

Insert a magazine loaded to capacity against a closed slide, as you would if you were carrying +1. Now see how easily you can retract the slide. If you find it difficult to retract the slide, consider polishing the stripper rail. I think that this is the single most important reliability improvement that you can make for the P365/X/XL/SAS

Polishing the Stripper Rail - Sig P365/X/XL/SAS
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/polishing-the-stripper-rail-sig-p365-x-xl-sas.892413/
 
TomJ, I bought a P365XL as soon as they were introduced. I had a few light strikes and failures to return to battery soon after purchasing it. After reading your prior threads, I sent mine in and Sig replaced a few parts. I probably have put about 2500 rounds through it since I received it back and I have not had any issues that I can recall. It now wears a Holosun 507K X2, and I like it a lot. I recently put a curved trigger on it so it is the same trigger pull as my standard P365.
 
I bought a P365 in 2020. It shoots great. Accurate and no malfunctions or indication of issues. That said, I’ve probably only got about 200-300 rounds through mine.

In 2018, I went to an event where SIG was allowing folks to try their guns. I asked a rep about the issues encountered in early guns. He admitted that there were issues related to the firing pins in some of the early guns, but that SIG had addressed the issue (I believe he said something about how some firing pins were improperly heat treated). I believe him as there seem to be plenty of happy P365 shooters within the last few years and early issues do not seem to be prevalent.
 
I have a current gen P365XL. Owned it for about 1.5 years, I guess. Run a lot of rounds through it and never had any issues at all. Mostly 115gr, some factory ammo, some reloads.
 
I have eight p365s (five XLs) and rotate through them shooting 100 rds out of each of a few every other week for two years. So that's about 1000 rds a month. I have had zero malfunctions of any sort. Cheap 115 gr. FMJ practice ammo (brass case).
 
I wound up picking one up early this afternoon along with a Trijicon RMRcc red dot. I had to order the adaptor plate and will install the red dot when I receive it.

I checked the stripper rail and it did not feel rough. With no magazine inserted or 11 rounds loaded into a magazine the slide easily goes into battery. With a fully loaded magazine inserted the slide is more difficult to rack, but not overly so and does not always go into battery if I pull it back an inch or so. I'll see if this is an issue, and if yes will polish the stripper rail.

I gave it a good cleaning, including the striker channel. The range I belong to is an outdoor range. I'm temped to run there now but it's 11 degrees and dropping while it'll be in the 30's Saturday. The adult in me is thinking I should wait until Saturday to shoot it. I'm going to put about 300 rounds through it before carrying it and don't want to get frostbite doing so.
 
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....I checked the stripper rail and it did not feel rough..... With a fully loaded magazine inserted the slide is more difficult to rack, but not overly so and does not always go into battery if I pull it back an inch or so. I'll see if this is an issue, and if yes will polish the stripper rail.

Fully load a magazine to 12 rds, insert it against a closed slide and then lock back the slide. Remove the magazine and inspect the top round for scratches on the shell case. The stripper rail in my P365 was rough enough that it repeatedly put deep scratches into the brass shell cases that I could see and also feel with my fingernail. I could drag my fingernail across the stripper rail and feel the roughness.

It's possible that I received a slide that missed a finishing step. But I'm not the only one. Other people have reported the same problem, and one person even reported that he was unable to rack the slide over a magazine loaded to capacity. Hopefully Sig has addressed this problem and it is no longer an issue.
 
I understand that the issues they've had have been resolved and was wondering if anyone has experienced those issues with the newer builds. I've read through a number of threads regarding them and have seen nothing but positive reviews, which is encouraging. I keep coming back to the XL as the carry gun that checks all the boxes I'm looking for and would like to give it another try.

I have two FCUs that were purchased as P365's and an XL kit. Both guns (FCU's) work just fine with any combination of slide and grip module. They eat all brass FMJ practice ammo that I've tried and Winchester 115 grain JHP, Speer Gold Dot JHP, Federal HST and Federal Hi-Shok ammunition.

Both my FCU's and various components were built after whatever update SIG did. I suspect that if you bought a newly built P365 gun, you would have a good experience with it.
 
Thanks everyone for your input. I just got back from the range and the gun worked perfectly with 300 rounds through it. I did what I could to induce a failure, including limp wristing, having a less than an ideal grip (it's 7 degrees outside so I shot with and without gloves on) and shooting strings of multiple rounds as fast as I could pull the trigger. There wasn't a single malfunction. I was shooting at metal targets of different sizes from 15 to 20 yards away and it's accurate with the muzzle coming straight back down for quick follow up shots. I'm glad I went with it, and it'll be my carry gun going forward.
 
Fully load a magazine to 12 rds, insert it against a closed slide and then lock back the slide. Remove the magazine and inspect the top round for scratches on the shell case. The stripper rail in my P365 was rough enough that it repeatedly put deep scratches into the brass shell cases that I could see and also feel with my fingernail. I could drag my fingernail across the stripper rail and feel the roughness.

It's possible that I received a slide that missed a finishing step. But I'm not the only one. Other people have reported the same problem, and one person even reported that he was unable to rack the slide over a magazine loaded to capacity. Hopefully Sig has addressed this problem and it is no longer an issue.

I tried that, and while I see a little bit of a line across the brass I really have to look hard to see it. If I wasn't looking for it I wouldn't see it. As well as the gun functioned I'll hold off on polishing the stripper rail unless something happens in the future that warrants it. Thanks again for the advice.
 
Started with the 365SAS which was my always carry—so easy in a front pocket. Got a great deal on a 365XL, it’s so good I don’t feel the need for a full-size 9mm very often. Carry with 12 round mag and a 15 in a pocket.
 
The only problem I've had with the Sig P365 is the Siglite front sight went totally dim after a few months. Called Sig, great customer service stretching back years for me and they replaced sight after sending in the slide, they paid shipping both ways. It's a fine carry gun in a Tulster IWB. Reliable, accurate, slim, light, compact. Very satisfying.
 
Briefly owned a P365, couldn't hit my 25yd 10inch gongs with it. Sold it.

Friday, a friend of mine brought his red dot equipped P365XL over to shoot. It was ok but... The sun was just right that I couldn't see my gongs through the red dot. Too much glare. I did hit a few of them.

I'll stick with my iron sight Glock 19 and Ruger LC9s Pro.
 
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