Pan Primer

Yes, that would work. I like it. Put a ring in the butt-end (primer pocket) so you can wear it around your neck. I like to take a cap-n-ball revolver with me anytime I'm in the field with either of my flinters, and just use my small pistol flasks for a pan-primer. And actually that's what I use if I'm in the backyard shooting. I use 4fg in all my revolvers.

Some say: "just prime from the horn", but I use 1fg in my musket, and 1.5fg in my rifle, so it's nice to have a finer grain than that for priming. Not necessary, just "nice". Even though, I have primed both rifle and musket from the horn, with 1fg and 1.5fg, and that works okay. When I was chasing that wounded bear around in the brush, I primed my rifle out of my paper cartridges, which was 1.5fg, and under the circumstances did not perceive any delay in ignition. Had a .22 pistol with me that day, so no powder flask.
 
Ugly Sauce said:
Yes, that would work. I like it. Put a ring in the butt-end (primer pocket) so you can wear it around your neck.
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I'm not planning on using it that long. I'll most likely buy one after the first of the month. I'm just kind of undecided on what I want. I looked at a brass one with a spring loaded tip but really want something more traditional looking even tho priming powder wasn't available until the 1800's. I saw one made out of an antler with a carved eagle head and the same spring loaded tip but don't want to pay 47.00 for it.
 
hawg said:
I'm not planning on using it that long. I'll most likely buy one after the first of the month. I'm just kind of undecided on what I want. I looked at a brass one with a spring loaded tip but really want something more traditional looking even tho priming powder wasn't available until the 1800's. I saw one made out of an antler with a carved eagle head and the same spring loaded tip but don't want to pay 47.00 for it.
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I made one out of a chunk of antler, with the spring-tip. Just bored through a section of antler, put the tip in one end, plug in the other. But I got too small of a tip, I think they come in two sizes, and it takes a long time to get the pan primed with it. I had the bigger size on my priming horn, which I've since converted to a regular horn, and it worked good. Just two or three pushes primed the Jeager just right. The smaller tip, sheesh, takes like a dozen pushes. Or more. !!! My Bess likes a heavy prime, so with that it would be a shoot-on-Sunday-once-prime-all-week thing.
 
Neat!

I've always used the little spring-loaded plunger thingies and have been happy with them, but now I've mostly given up on separate priming tools and powder, especially with good quality locks like those from Kibler. I now generally prime from my horn, and am glad to have one less gadget to manage.
 
.38 Special said:
Neat!

I've always used the little spring-loaded plunger thingies and have been happy with them, but now I've mostly given up on separate priming tools and powder, especially with good quality locks like those from Kibler. I now generally prime from my horn, and am glad to have one less gadget to manage.
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Amen, I hear you on that. I've been working hard to reduce all the gadgets and crap hanging around my neck and on my pistol belt. I'm getting much better. !!

If I used 2fg in my rifle, or musket, as I was for a long time, I'd just prime with that. But the rifle likes 1.5fg better, or so it seems. My musket goes off fine, and every time with 1fg in the pan, but I can tell the difference in ignition time between that, and 3fg or 4fg for prime. Or at least I think so. With either one, I still like to have my smallest prime tool with me, the one with the 20-push spout, just in case I want to re-prime for some reason (never do, same prime all day) and of course for the first prime of the day.

Wonder...how it would work, to just carry a small piece of antler around me neck, with a rounded tip, and just prime with 1.5/1fg, then crunch it up a little bit. ? I'll have to try that. That could work.
 
Ugly Sauce said:
Amen, I hear you on that. I've been working hard to reduce all the gadgets and crap hanging around my neck and on my pistol belt. I'm getting much better. !!

If I used 2fg in my rifle, or musket, as I was for a long time, I'd just prime with that. But the rifle likes 1.5fg better, or so it seems. My musket goes off fine, and every time with 1fg in the pan, but I can tell the difference in ignition time between that, and 3fg or 4fg for prime. Or at least I think so. With either one, I still like to have my smallest prime tool with me, the one with the 20-push spout, just in case I want to re-prime for some reason (never do, same prime all day) and of course for the first prime of the day.

Wonder...how it would work, to just carry a small piece of antler around me neck, with a rounded tip, and just prime with 1.5/1fg, then crunch it up a little bit. ? I'll have to try that. That could work.
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Yeah, I spent years clanking around the forest like a tinware salesman. If anything, I'm now in a "minimalist" phase - which just means that most of the time I leave something behind that I wish I'd brought!

And I do have guns that get grumpy when primed with anything but Null B or similar. More and more, though, I'm not putting up with them any longer. The Kiblers go off with monotony, and I can't tell any lock time difference between Null B and Swiss 3F (it probably exists, but I can't sense it) so just about all my shooting these days is with them.

It's funny, though, that you're considering replacing one tool with another, to cut down on the amount of stuff you carry. :neener:
 
.38 Special said:
It's funny, though, that you're considering replacing one tool with another, to cut down on the amount of stuff you carry. :neener:
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Every little bit helps! My powder-crusher idea would cut down on weight and bulk at least. !!! Could be a tiny little thing, perhaps hang it off my trigger guard along with the beads and vent-pick. Which I never use, but don't want to need it, and not have it. !!
.38 Special said:
Yeah, I spent years clanking around the forest like a tinware salesman.
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My problem is, anytime I want to stop and take off my pack, I have a million things on straps criss-crossing my chest. And they have to come off in order. First canteen, then shooting bag, then horn, if I'm using one, and I forget what else, and if I get out of order, then I get all fouled up like a fly caught in a spider's web. It ain't pretty. By the time I get my pack off, I've forgotten why I stopped.
 
Ugly Sauce said:
Every little bit helps! My powder-crusher idea would cut down on weight and bulk at least. !!! Could be a tiny little thing, perhaps hang it off my trigger guard along with the beads and vent-pick. Which I never use, but don't want to need it, and not have it. !!

My problem is, anytime I want to stop and take off my pack, I have a million things on straps criss-crossing my chest. And they have to come off in order. First canteen, then shooting bag, then horn, if I'm using one, and I forget what else, and if I get out of order, then I get all fouled up like a fly caught in a spider's web. It ain't pretty. By the time I get my pack off, I've forgotten why I stopped.
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Maybe you need to reorganize your bag or get a bigger one.
 
When I take the Ferg out the only things in the bag are pre lubed balls, a spare flint or 2 and a vent pick. I am kicking around the idea of getting a flask with a 68 grn spout for the powder.
 
I used a spring-loaded tip on a piece of horn handle I removed from a meat fork found at a junk shop for $3. Still working on this one to put a plug in the end plate to load 4F priming powder from the back. An antler tip would be smaller, but this one fills my pan with a couple of presses, holds more powder and it had a neat metal band already there. IMG_3614.JPG
 
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I mostly use this one made from a longer piece of brass tube than the ones they sell online. The two-piece tip is epoxied in the front and a brass bolt screwed in the back with leather belt loop mounted in a brass eye screw. IMG_3615.JPG
 
hawg said:
That was a Civil War era meat hook.
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It was not that old. Just one someone had made from a modern bent up fork made from stainless steel. I think they had made it from an older horn as it looked older than the fork.
 
VMC said:
It was not that old. Just one someone had made from a modern bent up fork made from stainless steel. I think they had made it from an older horn as it looked older than the fork.
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The horn is a dead ringer for one.
 
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hawg said:
The horn is a dead ringer for one.
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The horn does look that old with the metal band. It may have been from that era and someone used it to make a meat fork for reinacting or something. A stainless fork was glued in. I would like to know what it was originally though.
 
VMC said:
The horn does look that old with the metal band. It may have been from that era and someone used it to make a meat fork for reinacting or something. A stainless fork was glued in. I would like to know what it was originally though.
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Capture.PNG
 
VMC said:
I used a spring-loaded tip on a piece of horn handle I removed from a meat fork found at a junk shop for $3. Still working on this one to put a plug in the end plate to load 4F priming powder from the back. An antler tip would be smaller, but this one fills my pan with a couple of presses, holds more powder and it had a neat metal band already there. View attachment 1200461
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Nice looking pistol. What is it? Nice horn, I had a small horn like that, same push-spout for priming, but I turned it into a "day horn". Holds just the right amount of powder (7X110 grains) for seven patched ball loads in my Jeager, which is what I carry for hunting. Three in a loading block, four more in the bag to re-load the loading block, and then some paper cartridges for chasing wounded bears around in the brush.
 
Ugly Sauce said:
Nice looking pistol. What is it? Nice horn, I had a small horn like that, same push-spout for priming, but I turned it into a "day horn". Holds just the right amount of powder (7X110 grains) for seven patched ball loads in my Jeager, which is what I carry for hunting. Three in a loading block, four more in the bag to re-load the loading block, and then some paper cartridges for chasing wounded bears around in the brush.
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The pistol is one I built from parts collected from various vendors. The stock was a non-inlet fancy precarved one, lock is a Small Siler and barrel is a 45cal 10" Green Mountain. Stained Honey Maple from Laurel Mt. Forge.
 
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