Parkerizing question …

If it's H2S it's not hard to get out of solution in water...I used to work in a chem plant where we were extracting H2S and capturing it for our processing. Just bubble clean air through it like with an aquarium air pump. The easy way to tell if its coming out is to put a penny near the top of the container while you are bubbling the air through it. If the penny turns grayish black in a couple hours ... H2S is coming out. Also it smells like rotten eggs. Be careful with H2S in high enough concentrations about 10% it is explosive as methane or propane gas. do this outside but buying distilled water is cheaper than the aquarium pump unless you need LOTS of water
 
Gobsauce ... not sure about the intent of your comment ...

As soon as the barrel shows up (couple more weeks) I’ll put up some pictures. This is part of a Mauser short action build I talked about in another post.

I’ve just done a couple test pieces (a piece of an old barrel and carbon steel rod). The main purpose of the tests were to see if house water would work … it did ok but I’m switching to distilled water when the actual parts arrive (as advised here). Here's the end of a badly rusted barrel: I just dipped the last 6 or 7 inches (the rest of it was deeply pitted rust). Obviously I could have gotten rid of the solder but it wasn't what I was worried about.

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Ok … the more I think about this the more concerns pop up.

if I Parkerize the barreled receiver the bolt bore and bottom rails (Mauser) will be Parkerized. While I’ve come up with a good method for plugging the barrel in my vertical tank I have no idea how to protect the inner surfaces of the receiver. Anybody got thoughts or suggestions?
 
Ok … the more I think about this the more concerns pop up.

if I Parkerize the barreled receiver the bolt bore and bottom rails (Mauser) will be Parkerized. While I’ve come up with a good method for plugging the barrel in my vertical tank I have no idea how to protect the inner surfaces of the receiver. Anybody got thoughts or suggestions?


I'm not 100% sure if this would work but maybe a coat or two of some sort of exterior lacquer based paint or polyurethane where you want the metal to stay shiny, then lacquer thinner it off after parkerizing.
might be worthy of another test run
 
if I Parkerize the barreled receiver the bolt bore and bottom rails (Mauser) will be Parkerized. While I’ve come up with a good method for plugging the barrel in my vertical tank I have no idea how to protect the inner surfaces of the receiver. Anybody got thoughts or suggestions?

I am in the process of Parkerizing a Mauser style action myself. I looked up if it was necessary to plug the chamber and muzzle to keep the solution out of the barrel. Results I found across other boards were evenly split. Some posts said the mild etching action of the solution will help clean the barrel and won't harm rifling. Others plug it out of precaution. The barrel of mine is pretty dirty so I am going to leave mine unplugged to see if it improves the barrel. Haven't quite decided on if I am going to keep it out of the receiver. Parkerizing is a much thinner but tougher finish than bluing. So I am not worried about tolerances being messed with inside the receiver, bolt, and such with the Parkerizing.
 
Herrwalther… thanks for the input! I was more worried about surface finish causing a rough bolt actuation. Maybe it’s smooth enough to be ok.

Fortunately … I have s couple or three weeks (waiting for barrel) to figure it out.
 
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