Parkerizing service

[griff383]

I have been looking for someone that offers parkerizing in the Fort Worth area. I only need one small part done right now and can not justify spending money on the equipment for sand blasting and parkerizing.

I got a compensator for my AR from Midway and noticed that there was some small spots of rust starting to form on some internal areas. I have a decent duracoat setup but not sure how that will holdup on the internal surfaces and figured that if I had it parkerized I could then duracoat it (to match some other furniture) with out worrying about the internals.

Anyone that has done any parkerizing or knows of a gunsmith that offers this or can help in any way would be appreciated.

 

[NCsmitty]

If you're doing Duracoat by airbrush, then I'm guessing you have an air compressor. If that's true, then you're half way there, if it's big enough for sand blasting. I use the Lauer parkerizing solution and it's very easy to parkerize smaller parts in a porcelain clad bowl heated over a small burner or something similar.

You can do this, and be able to do other shooters needing this service to make your investment back.



NCsmitty

 

[griff383]

I have two compressors, one small one for airbrushing and one big one for automotive type stuff. I have a bbq with the side burner so I can be outside when heating solution. Im just not sure about the sand blasting set up. I really dont want to spend a whole lot to do one small part and then have equip laying around. I would be willing to invest a little in the equip if it really is that easy.

 

[NCsmitty]

All you need is a bag of play sand from Lowes, and one of the hand held blaster guns from Harbor Freight. Not a big investment.

http://www.harborfreight.com/garage...pper-gravity-feed-spot-blaster-gun-95793.html

I use the Zinc Phosphate parkerizing solution.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=165481



NCsmitty

 

[Roccobro]

Who has the best Park solution? I've heard to steer clear of some of the cheaper brands. But price is not as obvious to what is "Cheap". Help.

Justin

 

[griff383]

No need for a blasting cabinet of any kind?

 

[hso]

A blasting cabinet would be needed if you were intending to do more than just a small occasional piece of work and you couldn't do it outside where the media wouldn't be a problem.

BUT, if you're planning on doing this without a cabinet wear a respirator to keep from inhaling the silica.

 

[NCsmitty]

No need for a blasting cabinet of any kind?

I don't, I use the sand blaster outside on my lawn and do not worry about collecting the media. I wear goggles, and I also use a towel over my head held in place by a flip visor and use a simple respirator. It's not rocket science, but you need a little common sense to protect yourself.
You also should have a moisture trap on your compressor or the sand can clump and may clog the gun.



NCsmitty

 

[griff383]

Good info, thanks for helping out.

 

[35 Whelen]

Who has the best Park solution? I've heard to steer clear of some of the cheaper brands. But price is not as obvious to what is "Cheap". Help.

Justin

I bought Amerlene solution many years ago, but I hear they're out of business. I mix up my own from a formula I found over on the Surplus Rifle forum. It's super easyto make, the process is very easy, and the results are excellent. Here are some pics of a pistol I did a few days ago:
















Regards,
35W

 

[Old Fuff]

Brownells (www.brownells.com) is a gunsmith supply company (see their advertisements on The High Road); that sells the supplies, and a phone call or e-mail will get a copy of their detailed how-to-do-it instructions for free.

Unlike salt-tank bluing, Parkerizing solution is not toxic, can be poured down the drain after using, and isn't heated above that of boiling water. The only trick, if there is one, is to soak the parts in a oil removing solvent after sandblasting.

Most machine shops have sand blasters, but as has been pointed out, you can do this yourself as long as its outside.

You will need a stainless steel pot or tank (a porcelain clad bowl will work in a pinch) and a small stainless steel cooking strainer is useful for small parts.

Once you do it you'll understand why Uncle Sam gave up bluing.

Oh, and it makes an excellent prime coat for any paint product. Just don't oil it when you're done. Then apply the finishing coat as soon as possible.

 

[gunpartsearch]

you need to leave the pins in longer.

you need to leave the pins in longer if you do they will take on a deep black color they are hardened steel. and just take longer.or throw them in a bluing tank. before you oil them. I tryed diffent Sandblaster my self, best one so far is Harbor freights self contained blaster saves a ton of time.cost about $250.

 

[35 Whelen]

you need to leave the pins in longer if you do they will take on a deep black color they are hardened steel.

If you're talking about the pins in the pistol pictured, they match the rest of the pistol exactly. They only appear to be lighter due to reflection of the flash from the camera when taking the photos.
Regards,
35W