Please tell me the advantages of reloading.

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Aix sponsa

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I have 0 experience reloading. I shoot at least once a week, sometimes several times a week. Depending on the mood, I will shoot my shotguns, .308, .223 and 5.56 nato, and some others. For this post, the most important ammo would be shotgun shells and .223/5.56. Those are the ones that I shoot the most.

What I want to know, is what are the advantages of reloading? Does a person really save enough money to justify doing it, is it for the joy of the hobby, the opportunity to load the rounds that are "not available off of the shelf, but for a person's certain need", etc, etc.?

Also, what is a ballpark estimate of startup cost to pick up the hobby? $500 ? I have no idea.

Thank you very much.
 
Just started so no long term answer but I love it already. If you do start start small I'm starting off cheap so I went w/ Lee products mostly. I also like the idea of fine tuning my ammo.
 
It's fun, it's precise work. I learned a lot by loading thousands and thousands of rounds - handgun, rifle and shotgun. However, I no longer have the time to devote to it - it was a nightly hobby
 
Reloading...

First off, welcome to THR..This is a great forum, with a lot of knowledge in it.
I have loaded metallic cartridges for almost 40 years, but not 1 shotgun shell.
I think that center fire (rifle+pistol) hand loading is more cost effective than with shotgun. Just my 2 cents on that. Benefits to loading;
1. Cost
2. Quality
3. Choice of loads.
4. Satisfaction of a job well done.
5. On most rifles, usually more accurate.
6. Availability of ammo, when the stores run dry!

These are just a few that come to mind to me. Each to his own, but I do NOT believe in buying cheap loading tools, if you are in it for "The Long Haul"
I'm a retired GM Master Technician and have NEVER cussed myself for buying too GOOD of a tool.--I most always cuss myself for buying too CHEAP of a tool, when I find out it does not do the job as well as the QUALITY tool does..:confused::eek:

Again, just my 2 cents worth..Bill..
 
You're talking .223, which I admit I've not loaded. Those are fairly cheap to buy so the savings may not be practical for the time involved.
I load pistol rounds with lead bullets for 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of factory rounds. On inexpensive tools like Lee hand press and dippers. They are surely not "cheap" tools, but inexpensive and well-made. I guess 40 years is a long enough haul, that's how long I've been using Lee... and used RCBS, etc. , even I admit to using STEEL sizing dies.
Only 100 or 200 a week but thats all I need for a range day.
 
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You will save money, unless you start shooting more, which many of us have done.

If you don't save money because you start shooting more, well, you get to shoot more for the same money.

You can tailor your loads to fit your exact wants.

It's fun and rewarding shooting your own reloads.
 
Shooting is an activity that allows me and my adult son to spend some quality time together. When he and I are at the range we ay go thru a couple hundred rounds of 45ACP. Reloading allows me to think about how much fun we're having instead of how much it's costing.

Shooting proficiency comes with practice. If I did not reload, I would not be able to afford to get/be proficient.
 
Generally, Walkalong is spot on.

But I will add, your cost per round will be less if you reload. So, how you spend your savings will be up to you.

As far as shotshells, I will agree that it may be difficult to beat the cost of inexpensive or "gun club" loads. I do not even try to match those loads. I find they beat me to death. I shoot mostly skeet and load 7/8 oz loads in the 12 gauge and I can load those for less than equal commercial ammunition. I also load 20 and 28 gauges and .410 bore.

When I shot skeet competitively, I would shoot new ammunition in matches in part to generate a supply of hulls and in part to avoid any issue that my reloads did not meet the rules.

Finally, been reloading for 31 years and enjoy it as a hobby itself.
 
Don't make the mistake of comparing the cost factor with the cheep ammo out there,compare it to the most expensive ammo you can find.This will be what you will be producing in very short order.
 
I don't "cost it out", it's a fun and productive hobby I enjoy as much as shooting. It is relaxing and can drive the cares and worries away with the need to concetrated on the process, plus gives ammo that you can tailor to each guns' particular wants, through the long and happy period of experimentation.
Then, just when you have the golden load, they make a new bullet to try, or you get a new bullet mold to try. :)
I also get to keep going shooting in this poor economy because I bought components in bulk a while ago. Only thing I spend to go to the range is gas...and that's bad enough.
 
It opens up a whole new world of tools to buy. Do you have your comparator yet? :neener:

Like any hobby, it may not be for everyone. Cost aside, I find great satisfaction in loading my own ammo to compete and hunt with.
 
Good point from Doug B, don't compare the cost to the cheapest ammo you can buy. I reload 7.62 x 39 and I sure do NOT consider my reloads the equal of the cheapest corrosive steel cased ammo from eastern Europe.
 
I just started reloading earlier this year. Only doing 45 acp. Have only loaded just under 2000. For my Lee setup I spent right around $400 with bullets/primers/powder included in that price.

Haven't reloaded any rifle cases yet so I cannot help you there. I will tell you I started it to save money though. Figured it out that by the next 1000 rds the savings basically paid for the equipment. That was the reason I wanted to start reloading...but be warned!! It is extremely addictive and you may end up spending more in the long run because you shoot more.

Hopefully you saw the silver lining in the last sentence...you get to shoot more! :D
 
Economy, Accuracy, Independence, Understanding of your firearms, Inner Peace, Pride

Welcome to reloading (I am anticipating that you WILL join the society) and thanks for asking our opinions and advice.
I have 0 experience reloading. I shoot at least once a week, sometimes several times a week. Depending on the mood, I will shoot my shotguns, .308, .223 and 5.56 nato, and some others. For this post, the most important ammo would be shotgun shells and .223/5.56. Those are the ones that I shoot the most.

What I want to know, is what are the advantages of reloading? Does a person really save enough money to justify doing it, is it for the joy of the hobby, the opportunity to load the rounds that are "not available off of the shelf, but for a person's certain need", etc, etc.?

Also, what is a ballpark estimate of startup cost to pick up the hobby? $500 ? I have no idea.

Thank you very much.
12 Gauge is, in most loadings, available pretty cheaply, so much so that reloading is not a cost saving activity, especially if put a dollar value on your time (you may wind up having to pay the neighbor's kid to mow your lawn or wash your car so that you have time to load, yes?- that's a cost). Other gauges may vary. 16 Gauge in some stores is hard to find at any price.

.223/5.56 destined for semi-auto use is likewise cheap enough that the savings from reloading is minimal. However, for tack-driving accuracy (even in semi-autos capable of it) cost is less of a factor than the fact that you can produce ammo that is almost certain to be more accurate than factory. And factory "match grade" ammo is WAY more expensive than the 250 or 500 round "bricks" of 223 that competes only on the price point of reloading. Reloading can (and actually is likely to) produce better accuracy than anything accurate you can buy off the retail shelf and for far less money, too.

Not that I am saying you less expensive 223 bulk ammo is inaccurate. It is just not LIKELY to be AS ACCURATE as the more expensive stuff (unless you are lucky and have a rifle that happens to be in harmony with the bulk stuff. Very lucky.

Being able to produce ammunition when everyone else is crying over empty shelves is an obvious advantage to reloading. Of course, you will probably be subject to the supplies of primers, powder, bullets and to a lesser extent, brass, but those cycles of shortage and plenty are usually less problematic because it is easier to stock up with enough inventory to outlast a cyclic shortage. (It is more convenient to store a thousand primers, a thousand bullets, 2 or 3 pounds of powder and 150 shell casings than the equivalent 1,000 loaded rounds in retail boxes.)

When you reload, you will perforce study your firearms more closely than the more casual shooter of retail ammo. Likely, you will become more interested in the subject of internal ballistics as well as external ballistics. (Internal is what happens between breechface/chamber and the muzzle of the barrel. External is what happens during the bullet flight to the target. Terminal ballistics is what happens to the bullet and to the target after the bullet contacts and is inside the target.)

Many handloaders experience a "Zen-like" feeling of tranquil concentration while reloading. Some enjoy the activity as much as or more than the shooting itself.

Note that some people make a distinction between "reloading" and "handloading". The former giving more emphasis to getting ammo to shoot and in quantity and the latter giving more emphasis to the craft of ammomaking and the high degree of quality achieved by that art. The distinction is real for those to whom it matters.

When you punch paper in tight little groups or bring home game you have harvested with self-made ammo, the pride you have in a skill demonstrated or a hunt, stalk and clean kill well executed is a little sweeter than with factory ammo. Ever bring in a fish with a fly you tied yourself? Ever garnish a salad with home-grown tomatoes? You know.

Investment:

You can get started with a first-class setup (the three essentials) for under $150 with the bare essentials which you will likely never have to replace (trade up). For well under $100 you can get the three essentials, but you MAY (not necessarily) want to upgrade later on. So, maybe $70 to $250 can get you started in style

The three essentials without which you physically CANNOT load.

A press (because fingers are just not strong enough to work metal)
Dies (because fingers are just not accurate enough to work metal)
A way to mete powder (because eyeballs are just not accurate enough to measure out gunpowder)

Two more essentials without which you CANNOT load sanely

Loading manual with 1) Load recipes (otherwise how do you know how much powder of what kind to use) 2) a description of the loading steps
Safety Glasses (a primer going off in your face can ruin your day, and your eyes.) Use your shooting glasses until you get a dedicated pair for your loading bench.

But Loading manuals can be borrowed from the Library, reliable load recipes can be gotten online from 1) powder manufacturers 2) bullet manufacturers 3) internet forums (beware unvetted casual sources, though, even honest typos can be deadly, and there are people who take "liberties" with safety as well) Loading procedures can be observed through online videos, NRA classes or by reading manuals, including the one I recommend as the FIRST READ, "The ABC's of Reloading" (any edition)

Then there are what I call "enhancements" over and above the three essentials (press/dies/meter). These make loading 1) safer 2) faster 3) more convenient or 4) more accurate.

Scale (if you decided to go scale-less with your powder metering in the beginning)
Powder measure (automatically or semi-automatically drops a volumetrically measured "dump" of powder)
Bullet puller (for undoing mistakes or suspected mistakes)
Micrometer (for the occasional verification of the dimensions of your cartridges or components.
A lube pad (better than your fingers for applying lubricant to rifle cartridges for sizing)

Most people consider these essential. I agree, sort of. For example, I need a bullet puller. But it was several years before I had one and several more before I ever needed to actually USE it. But when I needed it, I NEEDED it.

Up to about $300-$400 is pretty much usual for adding the add-ons, enhancements and all the things that are "nice to have".

I populated my reloading bench last summer (2010) for about $450-$500 with almost all brand-new gear for 7 chamberings. If I wanted to forego some conveniences, I could have gotten away with a couple hundred less and been able to load for your two metallic cartridges for $250 to $300 easily.

Check out my "10 Advices for the Novice Handloader" in my next post. This one is long enough.

Good Luck

Lost Sheep
 
10 Advices for the Novice Handloader

Here are 10 advices I composed for the new reloader/handloader. Keep in mind that my perspective is that of a handgun loader (meaning straight-walled cartridge cases, not bottlenecked, which are used mostly in rifles).

I have thought of a few things I think are useful for loaders to know or to consider which seem to be almost universal. So much is a matter of personal taste and circumstance, though. So, all advice carries this caveat, "your mileage may vary".

The guy who sold me my gear showed me how to load my first six rounds (1974). He showed me first, explaining each step and then watched me load six cases he gave me and kept me doing it correctly. I learned a lot in those first six rounds and for decades was self-taught. Recently, especially with the advent of the internet, I have learned a lot more. Keep your eyes and ears open.

Now, here are my Ten Advices.

Advice #1 Use Reliable Reference Sources Wisely - Books, Videos, Web Sites, etc.

Study up in loading manuals until you understand the process well, before spending a lot of money on equipment.

I found "The ABC's of Reloading" to be a very good reference. Short on loading data but full of knowledge and understanding of the process. Check out offerings in your local library. Dated, perhaps but the basics are pretty unchanging.

Read as many manuals as you can, for the discussion of the how-to steps. What one manual covers thinly, another will cover well. As far as load data in older manuals, the powder manufacturers and bullet manufacturers may have better information and their web sites are probably more up to date. But pay attention to what the ammunition was test-fired from. (regular firearm vs a sealed-breech pressure test barrel, for example)

The reason you want more than one or two manuals is that you want to read differing authors/editors writing styles and find ones that "speak" to you. You also get better coverage of the subject; one author or editor may cover parts of the subject more thoroughly than the others.

The public library should have manuals you can read, then decide which ones you want to buy.

There are instructional videos now that did not exist in the '70s when I started.

Richard Lee's book "Modern Reloading" has a lot of food for thought, and does discuss the reasoning behind his opinions (unlike many manuals, and postings). Whether right or wrong, the issues merit thought, which that book initiates. It is not a simple book, though and you will find it provocative reading for many years.

Only after you know the steps can you look at the contents of of a dealer's shelves, a mail-order catalog or a reloading kit and know what equipment you want to buy. If you are considering a loading kit, you will be in a better position to know what parts you don't need and what parts the kits lack.

Advice #2 All equipment is good. But is it good FOR YOU?

Almost every manufacturer of loading equipment makes good stuff; if they didn't, they would lose reputation fast and disappear from the marketplace. Better equipment costs more generally. Cast aluminum is lighter and less expensive but not so abrasion resistant as cast iron. Cast iron lasts practically forever. Lee makes good equipment, and is generally considered the "economy" equipment maker, though some of their stuff is considered preferable to more expensive makes. Just think about what you buy. Ask around. Testimonials are nice. But if you think Ford/Chevrolet owners have brand loyalty, you have not met handloaders. Testimonials with reasoning behind them are better.

Be aware that many loaders don't use brand names, preferring the manufacturer's chosen color, instead. RCBS equipment is almost all green; Dillon, blue; Lee, red. Almost no manufacturers cross color line, so many loaders simply identify themselves as "Blue" or whatever. But this is not 100%. I have a Lee Powder Scale that is green.

On Kits:

Pre-assembled Kit: Almost every manufacturer (and retailer) makes a kit that contains (nearly) everything you need to do reloading . A kit is decent way to get started quickly with less puzzling over unknowable questions. Eventually most people wind up replacing most of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops (negating the price savings of the initial purchase), but you will have gotten started, at least.

Make your own kit:
On the other hand, you can assemble your own kit. But you have to put more thought into it before you start plunking down money (and plunking out rounds).

Third alternative. Populate your loading bench one piece of gear at a time starting with a minimal setup (press, dies and a way to mete powder, all else just makes things safer, faster or more accurate). I posted a thread "Budget beginning bench for the novice handloader you will never outgrow" on another forum (see links below). Basically, the two rules are: Buy only what you absolutely need, and nothing more. Whatever you buy, buy what you will need ten years from now, so you will not ever have to retire any piece of gear. To follow these rules, you must know about reloading before you actually DO any and you must know what your future needs will be, which is a tall order.

Advice #3 While Learning, don't get fancy. Progressive or Single Stage? Experimental loads?

While you are learning, load mid-range at first so overpressures are not concerns. Just concentrate on getting the loading steps right and being VERY VERY consistent (charge weight, crimp strength, seating depth, primer seating force, all that). Use a "fluffy" powder (takes up a lot of space for the charge -Trail Boss is one) that is, one that will overflow your cartridge case if you mistakenly put two powder charges in it, and is easy to verify that you have not missed charging a case with powder.

Learn on a press that performs one step at a time. A single stage press or a turret press can do this organically. A progressive press can be made to do this, but since that is not the way it operates naturally, many people recommend to not learn on a progressive press, especially operating in the progressive mode with multiple operations on multiple cartridges at different stages in the loading process (3, 4 or 5 shells simultaneously). When too many things happen at the same time, they are hard to keep track of. Mistakes DO happen and you want to watch for them ONE OPERATION AT A TIME until handloading becomes second nature to you. You can learn on a progressive, but it is easier to make mistakes during the learning process.

Note: A turret press is essentially a single stage press with a moveable head which can mount several dies at the same time. What makes it like a single stage rather than a progressive is that you are still using only one die at a time, not three or four dies simultaneously at each stroke of the press' ram.

Also, a good, strong, single stage press is in the stable of every loader I know, no matter how many progressives they have. They always keep at least one single-stage for those jobs that are simply easier to do on a single.

Advice #4 Find a mentor.

There is no substitute for someone watching you load a few cartridges and critiquing your technique BEFORE you develop bad habits or make a dangerous mistake. (A mistake that might not have consequences right away, but maybe only after you have escaped trouble a hundred times until one day you get bit, for instance having case lube on your fingers when you handle primers 99 times, no problem because primers are coated with a sealant, but the hundredth primer may not be perfectly sealed and now winds up "dead")

Like I said before, I started loading with the guy who sold me my press watching over my shoulder as I loaded my first 6 rounds to make sure I did not blow myself up, load a powderless cartridge or set off a primer in the press. I could have learned more, faster with a longer mentoring period, but I learned a lot in those first 6 rounds, as he explained each step. I educated myself after that. But now, on the internet, I have learned a WHOLE LOT MORE. But in-person is still the best.

After you have been mentored, mentor someone else. Not necessarily in loading or the shooting sports, but in SOMETHING in which you are enthusiastic and qualified. Just give back to the community.

Advice #5 Design your loading space for safety, efficiency, cleanliness

When I started reloading, I did not use a loading bench at all. I just mounted the press on a 2" x 6" plank long enough to wedge into the drawer of an end table My loading gear all fit in a footlocker and spread out on a coffeetable, end table and/or the lid of the footlocker. Good leverage meant the table did not lift or rock. I still use the same plank, but now it is mounted in a Black & Decker folding workbench. A loading bench "bolted to the center of the earth" (as some describe their setups) would be more stable, but I do not feel deprived without it.

You will probably spill powder or drop a primer eventually, so consider what you have for a floor covering when you pick your reloading room/workspace. I would not try to vacuum up spilt gunpowder unless using a Rainbow vacuum which uses water as the filter medium.

A dropcloth is handy for making cleanup quick and easy and also prevents dropped primers from rolling away. Cloth is quieter than plastic and drapes better, too.

Advice #6 Keep Current on loading technology

Always use a CURRENT loading manual. Powder chemistry has changed over the years. They make some powders differently than they used to and even some powder names may have changed. However, if you are using 10 year old powder, you may want to check a 10 year old manual for the recipe. Then double check with a modern manual and then triple check with the powder maker.

Read previous threads on reloading, here are a couple I read.

Here are some posts and threads I think you will enjoy. So get a large mug of coffee, tea, hot chocolate, whatever you keep on hand when you read and think and read through these.

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543
TheFiringLine.com, "Handloading, Reloading, and Bullet Casting"
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230171
http://www.thehighroad.org//showthread.php?t=238214
THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS - Powered by Social Strata
http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/frm/f/2511043
RugerForum.com :: View topic - Interested in reloading
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543
RugerForum.com :: View Forum - Factory Ammunition and Reloading
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewforum.php?f=11
This was informed by my recent (July 2010) repopulation of my loading bench. It is what I would have done 35 years ago if I had known then what I know now.
http://rugerforum.net/reloading/293...you-will-never-outgrow-novice-handloader.html
thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430391
(posts #11 and #13 are mine)
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=107332
thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=439810

Advice #7 You never regret buying the best (but once)

When you buy the very best, it hurts only once, in the wallet. When you buy too cheaply it hurts every time you use the gear. The trick is to buy good enough (on the scale between high quality and low price) to keep you happy without overpaying.

Advice #8 Tungsten Carbide dies (or Titanium Nitride)

Use T-C dies instead of regular tool steel (which require lubrication for sizing your brass) for your straight-walled cartridge cases. T-C dies do not require lubrication, which will save you time. Carbide expander button for your bottlenecked cases. Keeps lube out of the inside of the cases.

Advice #9 Safety Always Safety All Ways.

Wear eye protection, especially when seating primers. Gloves are good, too, especially if using the Lee "Hammer" Tools. Children (unless they are good helpers, not just playing around) are at risk and are a risk. Pets, too unless they have been vetted (no, not that kind of vetting). Any distractions that might induce you to forget charging a case (no charge or a double charge, equally disturbing). Imagine everything that CAN go wrong. Then imagine everything that you CAN'T imagine. I could go on, but it's your eyes, your fingers, your house, your children. Enough said?

Advice #10 Remember, verify for yourself everything you learn from casual sources. Believe only half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for everything you find on the internet (with the possible exception of the actual web sites of the bullet and powder manufacturers). This advice applies to my message as much as anything else and especially to personal load recipes. Hare-brained loaders might have dangerous habits and even an honest typographical error could be deadly. I heard about a powder manufacturer's web site that dropped a decimal point once. It was fixed REAL FAST, but mistakes happen. I work in accounting and frequently hit "7" instead of "4" because they are next to each other on the keypad.

Good luck.

Lost Sheep
 
YOU DON'T RELOAD TO SAVE MONEY

You may, but then you just spend what you would have spent on ammo...
AND SHOOT MORE
So, another way to put it, you don't save money, you shoot more with the money you spend.
 
2 basic reasons: Increased accuracy, and reduced cost.

Accuracy: Now, you mentioned 223. I found that changing the amount of powder I was dropping in the case by just half a grain can change the group sizes I get. You can play around until you find a powder/bullet combination that works well for you.

Reduced cost: if you're just blasting away at coke cans with a 223, buy cheap steel cased ammo and don't look back. I can only save about 5 cents a round by loading my own and by the time I factor in my time and equipment costs it's not worth it.

Jacketed bullets are expensive. The big savings in reloading comes from reloading something that you can put a cast lead bullet in. Something low velocity and expensive to buy. Perfect examples are 30 carbine, 45 acp and 357 mag.

A 3rd reason to reload is that you can underpower your calibers to reduce recoil. At 10 yds a steel plate or coke can doesn't care if it gets hit by a bullet going 1300 fps or 900 fps, so why deal with the extra recoil?
 
Shadow I'm going to disagree with the sentiment that you don't reload to save money. At some point you will reach the usable limit of ammo you can shoot in the day. For me that is roughly 100 rounds of .308 through my bolt action and 500 rounds through my XD. At this point I am "saving" money reloading because I've reached the practical limit of shooting I can do in a day and buying 500 rounds of .45 or 100 rounds of match grade .308 is expensive in comparison to reloading it. Granted, I'm not one who stockpiles tens of thousands of rounds either.
 
Just my opinion that NOBODY saves any money by reloading. The best it will get is shooting more rounds for the same $$ spent. I started reloading because of the ammo shortages and general Obamaphobia.

Your needs will guide your decision. Are you looking to shoot 1000 yard matches or just 'plinking'? Competition or just fun? How many rounds per session? Do you have easy access to low cost surplus ammo in .308 and .223? Target 12 ga is often on sale at great prices.

Reloading WILL let you worry less about ammo availability, new rounds are a few handle cranks away as long as you keep your component inventory up.

Low volume shooters, rifle or pistol, would have a more difficult time 'justifying' reloading based on presumed 'savings'.
 
Since I have no real requirement to shoot any round that I make or buy, I'd save the most if I were to just stop shooting. Reloading/hand loading strikes a balance somewhere between being frugal and being cheap that I am happy with.

What it really does for me is it allows me to shoot better ammo more often than I would normally do. Match grade rifle and 10mm ammo are both prime examples. It's a hobby and it has a budget. My only goals as far as money is concerned is to stay within the confines of the budget, but, it will get spent regardless.

1. Cost
2. Quality
3. Choice of loads.
4. Satisfaction of a job well done.
5. On most rifles, usually more accurate.
6. Availability of ammo, when the stores run dry!

Those pretty much sums it up for me as well, but it's mostly it's because I enjoy doing it.
 
Reduced cost: if you're just blasting away at coke cans with a 223, buy cheap steel cased ammo and don't look back. I can only save about 5 cents a round by loading my own and by the time I factor in my time and equipment costs it's not worth it.

I have never bought factory loads for my .223 but I have less then $2 in 20 rounds 7 normally shoot more then 100 at a time. So for 5 boxes I have less then $10 & the last factory I seen was $7 a box which is $7*5(boxes)*1.06(tax)+$10(gas)=$47.10+my time to go get it. I could stock up when I'm already at the store but I can also load when I'm not doing anything else.

Now that math is to load stuff that only shoots about 1"-1.25" which I doubt is any worse then the cheap factory stuff from watching someone else shoot it.

If I use better bullets to get tight groups I have about $2.40 to $3 a box. I have no idea what a box loaded with V-Max would cost but I would say $10-$15 a box.

For 30 cal I have never done the math but my cost is close to the same so at $30 a box for the factory loaded I used to buy the savings is huge.
 
Before I started reloading, I used to waste my time by indulging in activities such as drinking beer, chasing women, mowing the grass, fixing fence, cutting firewood, working overtime, going to church and other assorted idiotic tasks. Thankfully, I now have something much more meaningful to do.

As a side benefit, 2 years ago when .45 Colt cartridges were like gold, I was one of the few people here who could go out and shoot 100 rounds through my revolver and not even think about it. Likewise, if I didn't reload, I could probably only affor to shoot about 50 rounds per year of .454 Casull or .480 Ruger or .325 WSM. Now I can fling that ammo down range with no regard to the cost.
 
Ahh yes, George Dickel...................

Reminds me of a friend of long ago.

What everyone else has said about reloading is very true. Plus, you'll be so immersed in your hobby of guns, you will become an authority on reloading.

My buddy always asks me, "how can you cite handloads but you can't remember the name of a card game that is played at deer camp?"

You can become addicted to handloading. There are days I'd rather reload than make empties. My son is 6, I let him do the non critical steps when we reload together. It's awesome quality time.
 
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