Polishing Revolver Pivot Pins / Axles

[a5werkes]

In the past I have used thin strips of fine grit sand paper to pulley motion polish the machine marks off the hammer / trigger / cylinder stop pins. The hammer pin is always the easiest as there is generally more room for finger tips to work in that space; the cylinder stop pin area is impossible.

So, I used some different sized slotted roll pins to hold the 400 grit paper and chuck the roll pins in a hand held drill to quickly and symmetrically polish the axles in a matter of seconds. A thin strip of masking tape is used to prevent the sandpaper from rotating out of the roll pin; a proper sized drill bit is used as a mandrel to wrap the sandpaper within the roll pin.
Just thought I would share this method that some might find useful.

 

[drband]

That’s an innovative way to get to those pins!
Can you tell a difference in the action after polishing?

 

[a5werkes]

^^Of course not. But I sleep better knowing I have polished everything as nicely as possible.

 

[BSA1]

Removing metal on parts with close tolerances is not wise and, as the O.P. says, does not improve the action.

 

[Mizar]

It would improve the action a little bit if done lightly by hand on a new roughly machined part, but on a used gun, like the one OP worked on, those pins were already polished enough by the corresponding pivoting parts. And one always risks to not only decrease the diameter and introduce more play into the parts, but also to alter the cylindrical surface - to make them out of round.

 

[a5werkes]

Maybe it's just me but I don't know how to fit precision metal parts with close tolerances without removing some metal, otherwise I couldn't fit a 1911 safety, extractor, barrel, cylinder hand, face a bolt, freshen up a sear surface engagement etc.
The adage is not what is removed but what is left behind that matters. I am pretty sure most on this forum are using a light touch.

 

[earplug]

800 grit

 

[Old Shooter]

In the past I have done some polishing on stainless parts but I usually start at 600 grit and go finer after that. Earplug mentioning 800 sounds good to me, fine finish and very little metal removal.

 

[Mizar]

Maybe it's just me but I don't know how to fit precision metal parts with close tolerances without removing some metal...

Not to sound rude or anything, but there is a slight difference when fitting an oversized part vs. one that is already with the proper tolerances - grinding the last one will not make for a tighter fit.

 

[a5werkes]

I and many others smooth surfaces of a revolver rebound slide assembly by removing metal, to improve the trigger feel; it already has the proper tolerances too, but coefficient of frictions can be lessened on it and many other internal parts.

If one adopts the philosophy that factory parts with "proper tolerances" should not touched, so-called firearm action performance jobs would never be performed !

 

[a5werkes]

Speaking of grit #, this is the first time I have seen India Stone Grit referenced to standards.

 

[Varminterror]

To avoid carding material, and simply polish the pivots, I use a piece of leather, rubbed with jeweler’s rouge, rolled and held round with bands. I suppose a super fine grit paper could work, say a 2000grit, lest material be removed.

 

[Blue68f100]

In most all cases there is something rotating on the pin. So polishing the pin will yield some good results. I never touch holes on a frame unless their out of spec or very rough. The pins normally do not rotate in the frame so nothing to gain except a loose hole. A good grade of Syn oil will go a long ways in smoothing things up.

 

[BBBBill]

One smith (can't remember his name at the moment) up in the NE US has bored the hammers for a pressed in Oilite (https://oilite.com) bronze bushing with some success. Supposed to provide greatly reduced friction and lighter trigger pull without going to lighter springs. Then there is the roller sear (roller bearing on the tip) that replaces the standard double action sear by the smith in Tallahassee, FL (whose name also escapes me at the moment). C&S was selling a knock off of his design for a while. I've handled and shot some of those guns. The DA pull was like 6# max and very smooth.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Funny thing about that roller sear is that Korth uses them. In the very olde days, S&W used a tear drop shaped sear. The idea of either tear drop or roller on the sear is that you get a longer and more gradual build up of pressure. That's why the Python has a good trigger.

 

[boom boom]

Funny thing about that roller sear is that Korth uses them. In the very olde days, S&W used a tear drop shaped sear. The idea of either tear drop or roller on the sear is that you get a longer and more gradual build up of pressure. That's why the Python has a good trigger.

Is that the difference between the long throw and the short throw S&W actions or is it from the very old Hand Ejector and/or Triple Lock models?

 

[a5werkes]

boom boom, not sure if this is answering your question correctly but.....
Pre WWII and post WWII transitional S&W hand ejector revolvers are referred to by revolversmiths as "long action" and / or "long hammer throw" models; this is based on the relative location of the pivot aperture in the hammer and the hammer pivot stud location on the frame. Adjusting these mechanical points (studs / apertures) fore-aft on the frame will change the length of hammer cocking or throw (short v. long) and thus their different mechanical advantages required for the action.

You can see here the pivot aperture in the hammers are in different locations relative to the body of the hammer.

 

[boom boom]

boom boom, not sure if this is answering your question correctly but.....
Pre WWII and post WWII transitional S&W hand ejector revolvers are referred to by revolversmiths as "long action" and / or "long hammer throw" models; this is based on the relative location of the pivot aperture in the hammer and the hammer pivot stud location on the frame. Adjusting these mechanical points (studs / apertures) fore-aft on the frame will change the length of hammer cocking or throw (short v. long) and thus their different mechanical advantages required for the action.

You can see here the pivot aperture in the hammers are in different locations relative to the body of the hammer.

View attachment 785268 View attachment 785269

Thanks--I appreciate the photos as that makes it clear about the difference between the long throw hammer versus the short one. All of mine are post 1956 or so and are of the short throw type.