Scooter22
Member
How does a one do this without egging the chamber with home tools? I don't have a lathe. I just want to get any machine marks out. A lot of the budget shell now have brass coated steel bases that I've read can stick. Thanks
Polishing shotgun chamber...
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One of the better videos...
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...&mid=50B16CA2BF72099FC36E50B16CA2BF72099FC36E
(I've had to do this twice to two 870s)
Remington has taken a real beating on this issue. Why they don't fix it is beyond me... other than someone
must just not care. This is getting to be a habbit w/ companies now run by green eyeshade guys who have
little emotion/heart invested in the actual product.
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...&mid=50B16CA2BF72099FC36E50B16CA2BF72099FC36E
(I've had to do this twice to two 870s)
Remington has taken a real beating on this issue. Why they don't fix it is beyond me... other than someone
must just not care. This is getting to be a habbit w/ companies now run by green eyeshade guys who have
little emotion/heart invested in the actual product.
A flap of 600 grit emery paper slipped into a 1/8" (I think it's 1/8") split dowel rod and chucked into a variable speed hand drill. The flap of emery paper is essentially self centering and 600 grit will do little more than polish; a wooden dowel rod won't harm your gun. You can of course use finer paper.
The idea is for the abrasive side of the paper to swipe against the chamber at speed as you move the hand drill back and forth. I've done this on chambers and steel sizing dies.
Of course this "shade tree mechanics tool" may not be your cup of tea and that's understandable.
The idea is for the abrasive side of the paper to swipe against the chamber at speed as you move the hand drill back and forth. I've done this on chambers and steel sizing dies.
Of course this "shade tree mechanics tool" may not be your cup of tea and that's understandable.
Scooter22
Member
Thanks. I didn't think it was rocket science. Now I just have to decide which one.
Put a little oil on the paper (use wet and dry type) and it won't clog up so fast. You can even polish barrels this way. I have smoothed out chambers on my BPCR barrels using the split dowel method.
I have even used fine grade Scotchbrite in a split dowel.
If you go up further, you can polish the forcing cone a bit.
KU4HX gave you a good suggestion.
I have even used fine grade Scotchbrite in a split dowel.
If you go up further, you can polish the forcing cone a bit.
KU4HX gave you a good suggestion.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Yea, but it's not 1/8" dowel rod.
The bare minimum is 1/4", but 5/16" or 3/8" is much better.
You have to have enough dowel rod to slot it.
And 1/8" isn't enough.
rc
The bare minimum is 1/4", but 5/16" or 3/8" is much better.
You have to have enough dowel rod to slot it.
And 1/8" isn't enough.
rc
Scooter22
Member
Got it. I have everything I need.
Virginian
Member
Remington HAD a problem. They are no worse than the others now, but no one polishes a chamber like they used to.
I prefer to use an automotive drum brake wheel cylinder hone. Cheap and widely available, and the little flat stones do an excellent job. No other follow up needed. Removes any ridges far better than one of those gunsmith's ball hones.
I prefer to use an automotive drum brake wheel cylinder hone. Cheap and widely available, and the little flat stones do an excellent job. No other follow up needed. Removes any ridges far better than one of those gunsmith's ball hones.
Dunno about that rc, I've been using 1/8" dowels since the early '70s; still have the first one I ever made.
But then the size depends on many factors I 'spose ... most likely a function of what the OP is comfortable with. I just wanted less spinning mass in the chambers and dies I polished. Just seemed a mite less likely to "over polish" a spot if a lighter weight more flexible rod happened to contact the chamber or die wall. As is the usual case ... YMMV.
But then the size depends on many factors I 'spose ... most likely a function of what the OP is comfortable with. I just wanted less spinning mass in the chambers and dies I polished. Just seemed a mite less likely to "over polish" a spot if a lighter weight more flexible rod happened to contact the chamber or die wall. As is the usual case ... YMMV.
Are you having trouble with shells sticking in your shotgun or is this a theoretical problem?
oneounceload
member
^^^ Exactly what I was going to say. Don't shoot the really cheap crap and if you currently aren't having any issues, then do not bother
loose noose
Member
A Winchester Model 97 manufactured around 1899-1901 that I did a restoration on had some really bad pits in the bore. What finally worked was the piece of 280 all the way down to 600 wet and dry sand paper, wedged in the slit of a 5/8" dowel that finally worked, thanks to the people here on THR.
Scooter22
Member
Yes I did have several stick in a old Stevens single shot. You can see and slightly feel the circumferential ridges. This happened with Fed, Win, and Rem shells. I'm surprised at how many brands use plated steel now.
Use whatever diameter dowel will fit into the bore **"freely-but-snugly"** with several wraps of (wet/oiled) sandpaper wrapped around it.
I'd suggest 3/8 dowel to start, and a couple of grits 400/600, with 600 or finer to finish. Cut the paper strips shorter to adjust to fit as appropriate.
Drill on slow speed if/when dual speed available, but reasonably fast (easily as fast as you'd use to put screws into soft wood.)
I'd suggest 3/8 dowel to start, and a couple of grits 400/600, with 600 or finer to finish. Cut the paper strips shorter to adjust to fit as appropriate.
Drill on slow speed if/when dual speed available, but reasonably fast (easily as fast as you'd use to put screws into soft wood.)
Deltaboy1984
Member
I used JB Bore cleaner and a brass brush to clean them up.
entropy
Member
The easiest way I've done it yet is with a Flex-Hone and some JB Bore Paste.
Coyote3855
Member
I used the slotted dowel (yes, rc, more like 3/8") and wet/dry emery paper to slick up the chambers on a couple of double barrel shotguns I used for SASS competion. I wanted to use the cheap steel shell based ammo because I shot a lot of it and don't reload.
This method worked well for me. Even the cheap stuff dumped right out.
This method worked well for me. Even the cheap stuff dumped right out.
Gottahaveone
Member
A couple of years ago I bought a Stoeger Coach gun. When you looked down the barrel from business end, the area where the choke constrictions started looked like corrugated pipe, and you could feel the ridges with a fingernail. 5 minutes with a brass bore brush coated with Flitz did the trick. I would guess the same would work for the other end of the barrel just as well 
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