Polishing SS Revolvers?

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I've seen Mothers chrome polish at Wal-mart

That's where I got mine.

Also have something called Nevr-Dull. I used this to clean up some primer overspray on my stainless twin exhaust on my Mustang after a recent repainting. Shined it up really bright. Absolutely gorgeous. Haven't had the nerve to try it on a gun yet.

HogRider, you're really tempting me with those picks. The local shop has a new 65LS for $489. Not a terribly good price, but pretty decent for an LS in this area. Only thing is, if there's one thing I don't need is another gun. Even less I need another K-frame .357. I have very few 3-inchers, though (lots of 2 and 2.5s).
 
Mothers

I hope you're using the paste and NOT the liquid.
You're loking for the Mothers Mag & Aluminum polish.
It does NOT come in a squeeze bottle, but a short plastic jar.


Jeff (GUNKWAZY)
 
I have the paste. Worked wonderfully on my Interarms Walther PPK/s. The sides of the slide now sport a very high gloss. I'm debating about doing to the frame to match.
 
What does polishing a stainless gun do the the value?
I will probably try polishing my new Security Six, But if I had something nice and valuable like the earlier mentioned Python, I would be worried about messing with the finish.
 
I'd forgotton about this thread and asked the same questions on the Ruger Forum.
My main concern is the degree of abrasive qualities among the different polishes.
Anyone have an idea of how they stack up?

BTW, I've used the Nevr-Dull since the days when I helped MY Dad polish up the exhaust tips on his hot-rod station wagon... :D
That's good stuff, but more for use on something that already has a shiny surface.

Great thread. I'm looking forward to getting my new Super Redhawk and doing a bit of detail work, all to be 'enhanced' by having the stainless steel BLACKENED!!! :evil: It should be very interesting.
 
Ruger

Odds are that your Ruger Security six does not have any real collector value.
If you like polished guns, go for it. You'll enjoy doing it and the end results will be worth it.

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Jeff (GUNKWAZY)
 
All right guys...after reading this thread I started polishing my 65LS last night in an attempt to remove the bead blasting and the LadySmith etching. I was using the only polish I had at the house which was Kleenbore Gun Polish (similar to Flitz). I was able to get most of the etching off but I can still faintly see the words and the area is extremely bright. Brighter than I want for the rest of the gun. Can I knock that area back down now with sandpaper and oil or something else? I tried 000 steel wool but that really didn't do anything. Suggestions?

The other areas that I have been working on look great by the way. Not too shiny, not too dull.

Greg
 
Redhawk 45 Colt

OK. I sat down and tried Mothers on my Redfield. Looks great. I am pleased. It also eliminated some minor imperfections. Thanks for the input.

Now I need to refinish the original wood grips. They are looking old and tired.

Any ideas on how to refinish?

Thanks!
 
I tried the Mother's Mag polish on a Smith. I didn't spend as much time as I could have, but the little time I did spend made a difference.
I don't think I want a mirror finish on it anyway, it's a shooter.

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jmm
 
I polished up the sides of my Interarms Walther to a mirror finish. Looks great. I may never shot it again. Been working for a month on a stainless (Ruger's "High Polish") Vaquero and not gotten very far. I'll keep at it.

Mother's is real good for removing light scratches and I'm happy I tried it.
 
When you're done with all of this polishing, apply one or two coats of a good paste wax. Mother's will do, as will Johnson's paste floor wax. It helps with the fingerprint problems. You'll find they'll wipe right off.
 
Nice job Grimjaw,
Nuttin' like a couple a shiney wheel guns to brighten your day. ;)

4inchsmiths3.jpg


Jeff (GUNKWAZY)
 
Hi Jeff,

You just gave away my 20 year secret :mad:. Semichrome is what I use. I still have the same tube I bought 20 years ago. It does take a little time but the results are worth it.

Kevin
 
grimjaw, your model 67 seems to have some peening around the indexing notches too. What year is yours from?

I hope yours is shooting better than mine. I'll have it shipped back to S&W sometime this week for repair.
 
grimjaw, your model 67 seems to have some peening around the indexing notches too. What year is yours from?

SeanSw, this thread

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=143390

gives it 1982 vintage.

I got this one very used. Yes, it shoots OK in the 150 rounds or so that I've put through it.

edit: TarpleyG, much thanks. I will start a new thread rather than steal this one.

jmm
 
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Irregular wear around the index notch pictured here...

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Greg
 

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Gunkwazy, do you just take the grips off the revolver and go to town on it, or do you disassemble it further? (sights, cylinder, etc.?)
 
Usually just the grips come off.
You need to make sure you spend the time equally over the entire gun.
Also get into those tight corners with the tips of your fingers. Don't just polish the easy places and ignore the tough to reach places.

I just recently did a S&W 617 that the factory had a fairly crappy finish on even though the gun looked unfired.
I left the flutes on the cylinder rough and polished the rest.
It gave it a very nice contrast.
I'll try to remember to shoot pictures soon.
I think you guys will like it.

Jeff (GUNKWAZY)
 
Here are a couple of mine.I usually remove the thumb latch to polish mine.
 

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wow

:D hey out there i took the advice out here about the mothers mag polish but i bought the mothers incredible billet metal polish and rubbed it on my ruger sp101 ss gun then off and man i was like that is awsome the more shine you want the more buffing and polish you add try some you will be a believer too. dont have a pic but looks like jeff's ;)
 
Grip Finish

Third and Last Try:

Any input about how to refinish the grips on my now 'shiny' Ruger Redhawk?

Thanks!
 
Drill Sergeant:

Sorry, thought someone had got to you by now ...

Anyway, do you want a high-gloss finish, or something more satin looking? Refinishing smooth (as opposed to checkered) stocks is easy. I will go into more detail when you respond as to which "look" you want.
 
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