Pretreatment of baffles with release agents?

[Shytheed Dumas]

I was just wondering if anyone has ever used a release agent on a .22LR suppressor to ease clean up? PAM cooking spray's active ingredient is polyacrylamide, and it does have some use in industrial applications. I don't know if it would be safe on aluminum, but thought it might make for a very easy cleaning.

 

[floorit76]

Not sure how it would work on that, but we have been useing a graphite based paint called Slip Plate, on lots of gun applications. It basically dries into a layer of dry graphite that little can stick to, since it breaks off in layers.

 

[jerkface11]

PAM is safe on aluminum cookware. I doubt it would work well in this application though.

 

[Jaymo]

Perhaps spray silicone or graphite/graphite-moly?

 

[Orkan]

Interesting idea. Maybe someone will do a titianium nitride plated baffle stack in a suppressor.

 

[ATCDoktor]

I have a couple of take apart cans and have used Anti Sieze on the baffles in an attempt to ease disassembly and it didn't fair too well.

Works great on the end cap threads (as it should) but it cooks/bakes off real quick on the baffles.

 

[Shytheed Dumas]

I think temperatures have a lot to do with how some of these chemicals fare, which would fit in well with ATCDoktor's experience. It seems to me that rate of fire and barrel length would be two major factors in suppressor temperatures.

Does anyone know what kind of temperatures a suppressor experiences in say, slow fire bolt action rifle, medium to quick fire semi auto pistol, or full auto rifle?

 

[Orkan]

I don't think an application such as anti-seize or any kind of oil can work. However, a baffle treatment that would make it harder and smoother, thus less likely for things to be able to attach to it; That might work.

 

[rjrivero]

I have a couple of take apart cans and have used Anti Sieze on the baffles in an attempt to ease disassembly and it didn't fair too well.

Works great on the end cap threads (as it should) but it cooks/bakes off real quick on the baffles.

Which type of anti-seize did you use? I use the copper colored stuff on my Gemtech Alpine and it does make it easier to disassemble. It gets a bit crusty, but it's easier to take apart than when I shoot it completely dry. YMMV.

 

[ATCDoktor]

Which type of anti-seize did you use?

The silver stuff that Permatex offers in a tube. So you say the copper colored stuff out of the can works (for baffles) and doesn't cook off?

 

[Orkan]

The silver stuff is lead based if memory severs, while the orange stuff is copper based. That would explain the copper colored stuff's ability to withstand temperature better.

 

[rjrivero]

The silver stuff that Permatex offers in a tube. So you say the copper colored stuff out of the can works (for baffles) and doesn't cook off?

The copper Anti-Seize does a nice job at keeping things from completely seizing up. The solvent cooks off, but the copper left behind allows for easier dis-assembly.

 

[Double_J]

See if you can find some High Temperature Anti-Sieze. It will be nickel based if I remember right. We used it on jet engine exhausts that got over 1800 degrees F. with no problems.

 

[rjrivero]

The copper stuff is good to 1800 deg F. The Nickel stuff is good to 2600 Deg F. I figure either one will do fine on .22 Suppressors. The nickel stuff costs a few $$ more.

 

[SharpsDressedMan]

Too bad they don't teflon coat them during construction.

 

[rjrivero]

I would expect coating baffles would be prohibitively expensive.....but that's just a guess.

 

[SharpsDressedMan]

Teflon coating the baffles might add $30-$50 to a $500-$600 suppressor.

 

[rjrivero]

I guessed wrong....

 

[spyder1911]

Too bad they don't teflon coat them during construction.

PTFE, or Teflon as it's called, degrades at ~300 degrees and decomposes at ~500 degrees F.

 

[SharpsDressedMan]

Huh................wonder if suppressors get that hot............

 

[bbell]

Lose the baffles

Did you chose the baffle design or where you restricted to it ? (The CNS machined supressors are easier to clean )

 

[jerkface11]

wonder if suppressors get that hot

I'm sure some do but the op was talking about .22lr

 

[spyder1911]

Well the gases are definitely that hot and I'm sure repeated firing would erode the coating.

An industrial ceramic compound like titanium nitride or even hard chroming would probably help versus bare steel or aluminum.

A colloidal graphite mixture with an easily evaporated solvent would probably work well too. Except it can create galvanic corrosion with aluminum parts if the oxide layer wears away.

Maybe molybdenum disulfide powder or collodial mixture?

Or a just a high temperature grease, to trap the grime and keep it more of a paste than a dried film. The grease should be easy to wash off with a non-polar solvent, something like white gas (cleaner than gasoline) or kerosene

 

[SharpsDressedMan]

OK, so the suppressor and baffle don't get THAT hot. Sure, they are subject to erosion, over time, but teflon coating should assist in disassembly and cleaning. The baffles, and suppressor, would have to be subjected to full auto firing cyclic rate to heat it up THAT much.