Priming before Re-sizing?

[HK SD9 Tactical]

Is there any inherent danger to priming a case after cleaning it and prior to sizing it. I have the RCBS benchtop priming system and I really like the feel of it and the adjustments that I get on the depths of seating. It is a lot easier to prime using the RCBS than the Hor LnL AP priming system (I don't have to worry about refilling the primer tube every 100 cases because I load about 20 primer strips at a time). What I would like to do is to decap and clean my brass (using a universal decap pin so I do not have to lube my cartridger prior to decapping) that way I get to clean the primer pockets as well (even though most people say it is not necessary) then use my Hor LnL AP to resize (no decap or prime), charge and expand, bullet feed, seat, then taper crimp, or powder check then bullet feed and seat & crimp. I only worry about my .357 Mag cases and my rifle cases as far as trimming is concerned, even though I always check the other pistol brass for min/max after cleaning. My .357 Mag is my only wheel gun.

Of course I would not prime the brass prior to reloading it, ie, it would be done in the same loading session. I use a LnL AP case feeder and while I am not afraid of a primer going off during case feeding into the LnL AP, I am concerned about the resizing process (with the decap pin removed from the resizing die) of a primed case.

Thanks

 

[243winxb]

Should be safe sizing in the correct station of the Hor LnL where there is a hole under the primer.

 

[john16443]

I do the same thing as the OP. Deprime, tumble, clean pockets off the press. Depending on what other reloading activities I've planned for that session, I may prime off the press or on the press. Makes no difference.

 

[Walkalong]

Won't hurt a thing.

 

[Rollis R. Karvellis]

When I, do my .41 mag's I, use this method. My stem was broken, and I, never bothered to order a new one yet. Plus the press I, use for .41's is an older Projected, and the priming system sucks.

 

[Walkalong]

Plus the press I, use for .41's is an older Projected, and the pricing system sucks.

If you meant the older Projector priming system is very poor, your right.

 

[HK SD9 Tactical]

Thanks. I did not think that there would be an issue. There is no inward pressure to the rim and the primer pocket would undergo no pressure changes. Even with a shell holder that does not have the center cut out, just so long as the primers are seated to just below flush should not pose a problem.

On a side not (I hate to start a new thread), I just got the LnL AP with the case feeder and bullet feeder. With all the shell plates, special dies (bullet feeder and quick change powder through), the PTX inserts, the bell adjustment brackets, and some other stuff including another case activated powder measurer (no need to change out drums), I came across both a Hornady Taper Crimp Die for my .40 S&W and the Lee Deluxe Pistol Die Set which has the Carbide Factory Crimp Die (I have both of these). Now the Lee is a carbide sizer die as well to prevent an unsized case from making it through the loading process (very unlikely on a LnL AP - requires operator malfunction).

Which one is the better die for crimping? The Hornady is a taper crimp but the Lee does not specify even though it resizes the case while it crimps.

I am under the belief (maybe wrongly so) that a taper crimp is better for a straight walled case while a roll crimp is better for bullets with a cannelure.

I load .380 auto, 9mm Mak, 9mm, .357 Sig, .357 Mag, .40 S&W, 5.56mm, 30-30 Win, 300 Savage, and some 5.7X28mm.


Thanks

 

[Walkalong]

Now the Lee is a carbide sizer die as well to prevent an unsized case from making it through the loading process

The carbide ring in the pistol FCD is not there to size a case that did not get sized. It is there to post size any round that is too big in diameter from crooked seated bullets, or fat bullets, or whatever. If the case had not been sized the bullet would fall in the case when seated, before it ever got to the FCD to crimp. Personally, I would skip the FCD and use the Hornady taper crimp die, but many folks like the FCD.

A taper crimp is for auto calibers that headspace on the case mouth. A roll crimp is for revolvers using lead bullets with a crimp groove or jacketed bullets with a cannelure.

For someone who loads all those calibers, and especially 5.7X28, and considering the questions asked, I really suggest that you read up some more.

 

[psyshack]

Some brass I do not resize.

My most accurate revolver and semi auto pistol brass is fire formed and it stays that way. Range brass always get's a resized. My most private brass. gets deprimed, cleaned in a ultra sonic cleaner, tumbled and reloaded on a single stage press.

 

[HK SD9 Tactical]

The carbide ring in the pistol FCD is not there to size a case that did not get sized. It is there to post size any round that is too big in diameter from crooked seated bullets, or fat bullets, or whatever. If the case had not been sized the bullet would fall in the case when seated, before it ever got to the FCD to crimp. Personally, I would skip the FCD and use the Hornady taper crimp die, but many folks like the FCD.

A taper crimp is for auto calibers that headspace on the case mouth. A roll crimp is for revolvers using lead bullets with a crimp groove or jacketed bullets with a cannelure.

For someone who loads all those calibers, and especially 5.7X28, and considering the questions asked, I really suggest that you read up some more.

I appreciate your concern. I read all the time. I just did not phrase my question correctly about the Lee FCD. I took the information from the Lee phamphlet which states that it sizes the case if one gets through. I know that it does not do this like a FL sizing die, it only checks the cartridge for universal fit and sizes it if it is too large. I was more interested in the results of the taper crimps from the Hornady or Lee.

On the 5.7X28. More hype about how this is a bad round to reload. Been doing it for over five years without a hitch. I load all my 5.7X28mm one at a time to make sure that there is no double charges or squibs. I know what .1 grain overcharge can do. Beleive me when I say that I pay very very close attention to this round. Each charge is weighed on a digital scale, all my barrels (FiveseveN, SBR, and PS90) have been miked, and I know the limitations of the firearm platforms, including what to look for when testing higher than average rounds. I have developed loads from the 28g projectile through the 55g projectile including subsonics. Some work in all firearms, others are for specific platforms such as tehe SBR or the PS90. If one is careful and attentive, everything will be fine.

Thanks for your response, always looking for feedback.

 

[popper]

If you prime BEFORE sizing and flaring, then get a split neck, you get to remove the primer or toss it. Also makes cleaning the case after sizing more difficult. I prime just before loading, but I use a single stage pres.

 

[Funshooter45]

Some brass I do not resize.

My most accurate revolver and semi auto pistol brass is fire formed and it stays that way. Range brass always get's a resized. My most private brass. gets deprimed, cleaned in a ultra sonic cleaner, tumbled and reloaded on a single stage press.

How do you get the bullet to sit in the case mouth if you don't resize? After I fire a cartridge, the resultant case mouth has a diameter that is several thousandths larger than the bullet diameter.

 

[Gadzooks Mike]

Lee Deluxe Pistol Die Set which has the Carbide Factory Crimp Die (I have both of these). Now the Lee is a carbide sizer die as well to prevent an unsized case from making it through the loading process (very unlikely on a LnL AP - requires operator malfunction).

Which one is the better die for crimping? The Hornady is a taper crimp but the Lee does not specify even though it resizes the case while it crimps.

Actually, the Lee Factory Crimp dies use the appropriate crimping method for that caliber. Taper for 40 S&W, roll for 38 Special, for example.