Problem with my SP101 357 MAG.

Status
Not open for further replies.

Clippers

Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
106
Location
Kirksville,MO
My last two trips to the range were brought to a halt after firing 40 to 50 rounds because the cylinder wouldn't close. After trying to close it for several minutes, both times, I finally get it to close, but the cylinder won't rotate in SA or DA. Then after just messing with it for a while, it just starts working again. I have no idea what I did to get it to start working again. Both times I was shooting a mixture of 38 and 357 factory loads and handloads.
I've read some posts about using a toothbrush to clean under the brass ejector star every so often. I'll give this a try, but was curious if there was something else that could be causing this issue. Thanks.
 
I had the same thing happen to my shooting friends SP101 ,Found when loading his rounds for the range,he had some primers too high. Easy fix .biker
 
I thought that could be the case the first time, but the second time, I emptied the cylinder and it still wouldn't close.
 
This has happened twice to my wife's SP-101 and both times it was unburned powder under the ejector star. Twenty seconds with a small brush will free it back up. I now carry a small brush in my range bag.
 
Is the cylinder rubbing on the forcing cone? That is not necessarily a bad thing for velocity, but you will need to clean every box of rounds.
 
I was about to ask about the forcing cone, too. It sounds like the metal is expanding as it heats up, rubs, or blocks the closure. After you fiddle with it for a while, it cools off and the metal contracts enough to use it again.

Had that happen with a revolver once, and thought it was due to a lower quality brand of firearm.
 
Thanks for the replies on possibilities. I looked for some kind of markings on the forcing cone or the cylinder and couldn't see any. It seems to be binding on the hammer side of the cylinder, but once it frees up, it works flawlessly.
 
This has happened twice to my wife's SP-101 and both times it was unburned powder under the ejector star. Twenty seconds with a small brush will free it back up. I now carry a small brush in my range bag.

This is a common problem with .357 Magnum revolvers when shooting .357 magnum ammo.
 
My SP did that too, was crud under the ejector star every time.
 
Remember , 38s are .135" shorter than mag rounds & a ring of crude can build in that space the longer case are supposed to causing the rounds to chamber a little proud .

Headspace is only .003-.005 " so it does`nt take much. It is possible for expansion to cause this . Try shooting just 1 size ammo for a session ,either 38 or 357 & see what happens .
 
I suspect it will turn out to be crud under the ejector star.

The next step is to ask how do you remove the spent brass? Is the gun tilted up or down? Always tilting up will keep any unburned powder from building up on the ejector star.
 
Might also check and see if the nut on the ejector rod is tight ! If it comes loose and backs off any amount, that could be it also. Re-tighten it, or make sure its tight, then see how things work.
Make sure you have 3 mtys in the cylinder, every other hole, when you check the tightness on the ejector rod, so you don't bend or warp the crane !!
 
We had my 101 do the same thing the first time out.
It seemed to start after using some dirty old wadcutters. After a good cleaning it spins like a champ.
 
It is amazing how one little piece of unburnt powder can jam up the works. Had it happen an a Taurus (I know, don't say it). Especially in the shorter barrels where it's harder to ignite all the powder.

Thay's why I always carry a can of compressed air to my range sessions, to blast out the crud under the star. Now all I have to do is find a Tactical can of compressed air for carry. ;)
 
It is also a good idea to have the barrel pointing up when ejecting fired rounds so unburned powder stays in the case.
 
My SP did that too, was crud under the ejector star every time.
This is what I was going to say, except that my SP101 fiveguns have not experienced this, but several of my sixguns certainly have. This is not cartridge-specific, nor brand-specific; I have experienced this with .357 and .41 Magnums, and with Ruger and S&W revolvers. A new, tighly-fitted gun is more susceptible, because it takes less unburned powder or other crud to gum up the works. Oil under the extractor star makes it more likely to happen, as pieces of unburned powder and other crud will stick to the oil or other lube.

In my duty sixgun days, I learned to keep an old toothbrush in a back pocket when at the range, especially during all-day training classes.

When Ruger cared enough to make the very best, in the early GP100 days, grunge grooves
were milled under the extractor, to minimize the chance of crud tying-up the cylinder.

This NOT necessarily a maintenance issue; a tightly-fitted, clean sixgun, plus a batch of dirty-burning ammo, can mean this starts during the first reload. When one dumps the cartridges, crud falls from the chambers onto the extended extractor star, and when the extractor springs back into place, the crud is trapped and squished, but if there is enough crud, it prevents full return of the extractor.

Keeping the muzzle vertical during the reload does not totally prevent the problem! Some unburned powder crap falls from the front of the chambers, forward of the cartridge cases. In theory, holding the muzzle vertical makes it more likely that this loose crud will land on the extractor star, though there are other really good reasons to keep the muzzle vertical during the reload.

Premium duty/defensive-type ammo tends to burn cleaner than cheap range stuff. I have never experienced this problem when burning up older carry-duty ammo
 
Last edited:
My guess;
1. Improperly sized reloads
2. High primers

The cylinder wouldn't close when it was empty. Then once it would close, the cylinder wouldn't rotate.
I'll definetly have a toothbrush in my pocket next time and also do a more serious investigation as to what's binding it up, if or when it happens again.
 
Had the grunge under the star issue too...

It was from some pooh reloads a pal had... -really, it wasn't me- had lost concentration on and I wanted his brass but didn't care to un-bullet it the slow way.

The problem vexed me a couple-a-times then I made a point to not engage the ejector till the pistol was muzzle up and let it snap twice before moving on to re-load. A bit of a get-over in technique but I was on a mission to empty that brass and move rocks down the berm.
 
That kind of binding can also be the result of a too-small barrel cylinder gap or too tight a cylinder fit.

When a revolver is fired, the heat from the burning powder causes the cylinder to expand lengthwise. Normally the maker has set the gun up so the expansion will not cause binding. But if the gun is tight in that respect and a number of shots are fired or fired rapidly (even one cylinder is enough in rapid fire with a very tight gun and the OP fired 50 rounds), the cylinder will lengthen enough to bind in turning or even in closing.

The solution is either to fire slowly enough to let the cyllinder cool or to have a pistol smith or the factory loosen it up.

Jim
 
Remember , 38s are .135" shorter than mag rounds & a ring of crude can build in that space the longer case are supposed to causing the rounds to chamber a little proud .

Headspace is only .003-.005 " so it does`nt take much. It is possible for expansion to cause this . Try shooting just 1 size ammo for a session ,either 38 or 357 & see what happens .
__________________
GP100man

I lean to this....
 
Jim K, you might have hit the nail on the head, only time will tell.

Truthfully, I have only shot a little over 50 rounds of 38 Special to the 500 plus rounds of 357 since I've had this gun.
 
I have an SP101 .38 that does the same thing after about 30 or 40 rounds. Take a brush to the forcing cone and the cylinder face. The gap on mine is extremely small and fouling causes the gap to become negligible rather quickly. I like the gun tight. Brushing is just something that needs to be done at the range when shooting for a while. It's the tightest revolver I've ever owned. There's no play in the cylinder with the hammer in any position. Some folks don't care for a cylinder gap that tight, but it's a carry gun and I only have 10 or 15 rounds total on my person, so no problemo. Fouling doesn't become an issue until around 30 rounds. With the short barrel, I'd rather have all the velocity a round can muster if the need arrises and the small cylinder gap helps with that.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top