Problems with the Walther P1

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Swichblade

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I have been looking to buy one of these guns for a little while now, and I have read that some people have experienced problems with them. I have read that some people have had the top cover shoot off when using it or have had the frame crack. People said this was due to "hot" ammo and frame cracks were due to higher strength recoil springs.

My question is this: If I buy a Walther P1 from a reputable place like J&G Sales or AIM Surplus, get one with the hex pin, do not modify the gun in any way, and shoot standard 115 grain 9mm through it, is there still a possibility that the frame will randomly crack or the top cover will blow off?
 
It's highly unlikely that with standard 115gr ammo you'd ever hurt the gun regardless of if it has the upgrades (thicker slide + hex pin). With the upgrades, you still want to stick to standard 9mm, but it's even less of a problem.

I've put a few hundred rounds through mine. Had 2 or 3 failures to extract, but nothing too major. Overall they're very neat guns. They've got most of the basic features of any modern DA/SA 9mm, but still a bit old and quirky.

I will say that I wouldn't recommend them as an only handgun. Not for reliability reasons, but just for practicality. It's just more of a range plinker, though in a pinch it'll certainly act as a "working gun" if you needed it. They are former police/military pistols afterall, and they're no less deadly now than they were than.
 
This is good to hear that it would not have problems; I would sad to get one and have it break. I was thinking about a Makarov because they are cheaper and I hear they are more reliable, but I will get one of these now.
 
Mine shoots very low. I wonder if you're supposed to have a '+' for the sight picture rather than a 'T'. I just got it and haven't shot it much yet.
 
zxcvbob, mine shoots when the posts are lined up, ignoring the painted markings (they're good enough for a snap-shot, but not exactly at POI=POA.
Center hold, not any "lollipop" or "ball-on-stick" or "dot-the-I" nonsense.

My understanding is that the adjustments are made by swapping front sight height, I've just been lucky and never needed to do so, the guys at waltherforums or the P38 forum would have more detail.
 
Mine has a tall front sight, with no painted markings front or rear. (and it's a later model with the steel cross pin in the frame) I have to put the center of the blade on the target to hit anything -- been thinking about filing it down but I need to shoot it more before I make any changes.
 
Mine has a tall front sight, with no painted markings front or rear. (and it's a later model with the steel cross pin in the frame)

The steel cross pin is a separate issue. The sights change depending on the slide. Older slides were a tad thinner and have a short group of serrations at the rear of the slide (IIRC, they stop just about at the thumb safety). The newer thicker slides had serrations going up well past the safety, and had different sights.

You can find them in every combination out there: pin with thin slide, pin thick slide, no pin with thin slide, and no pin with thick slide.

If you have your choice, the pinned model with the thick slide is the one you want.
 
The purpose for the pin in the frame was really to give the locking block a steel surface for the block to run on.
In very high round count guns they found that the aluminum frame would wear in the locking block operating ramp and the gun would start to have locking problems.
The steel pin gave the locking block a non-wearing steel operating surface.

The main reason top covers pop off is because either someone removed it and failed to get it back on properly, or they accidental bent the cover spring fingers and they fail to hold the cover in place properly.
Unless you absolutely have too, don't remove the cover.

The P-38/P1 pistols were designed for use with 124 grain standard load ammo.
They usually work with 115 grain.
What causes cracked frames and broken slides or locking blocks is hot ammo or heavy bullets the gun wasn't designed to handle.

Another factor that can cause broken guns is installing heavy-duty recoil springs with the idea that this will allow shooting hotter ammo.
This may work on the recoil stage, but the heavy springs slam the slide shut much harder and the frame will crack through the disassembly lever hole.
I've seen one P1 in which the front of the frame was literally hammered almost off the frame.
 
I always find these threads somewhat humorous.
"Will my Walther-SiG-Luger-Glock 9mm blow up or wear out using white box wally world US made 115 9mm ammo??????

European 9mm is loaded much hotter than American ammo.
German Military practice is to maintain and rebuild firearms on a regular basis.

This biggest problem with US made cheap box ammo is getting the stuff to function at all in most well made European handguns~!;)
 
I load 135 grain LRN bullets to very high pressure for my Hi-Power. (probably not good for it) I have maybe 100 rounds so loaded, and I'm not gonna reload any more of those now that i have the P1. I have 2 big boxes of the 135 grain bullets left, so I'm planning to load them to a more sane level for the Hi-Power, and use my own 120 grain truncated cone cast bullets for the P1. I tested a few 120's w/ 3.6 grains of Titegroup and they worked but were too wimpy. Gonna try 3.8 and 4.0 grains next, and if I don't like either of those switch to a moderate load of Unique.
 
dfariswheel pretty much covered it.

One additional factor that can damage the cover on the slide is sight adjustment. The P1/P38s sight adjustment is the front sight. You can get different ones for height and it drifts left and right. Try and drift the rear sight and you will damage the cover.

here are some forums to read more on the guns:


http://forums.p38forum.com/forums/

http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/

I was lucky and bought mine from a collector. It was in like new condition with all the upgrades. It is extremely accurate and has functioned flawless. It's weight makes it an easy carry piece. Allen's made me a custom high rise style holster. When I want a full size auto, my P1 is one of my favorites. The Walnut grips were my upgrade.
 
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