Two questions...
1. What is it that everyone doesn’t like about Pyrodex?
2. is the only difference between 2F and 3F is burn speed? With 3F burning faster then 2F?
Since I have a Cannon and considering getting a golf ball cannon, I will probably keep getting 2F. But since I will have both a pistol and 2 short shotguns (6” 20 gauge on the Lemat, and the 12” Perdesoli Howdoh)
1. It's personal preference and many people actually prefer Pyrodex.
Each powder has its advantages and disadvantages.
Because everyone has some personal bias, many don't want to acknowledge any advantages with the other types of powders.
Pyrodex can have slightly more difficult ignition, because it has less sulfur than black powder I think.
And it's often said that Pyrodex can create more corrosion if not cleaned promptly, depending on factors like humidity.
On the other hand, Pyrodex can sometimes offer more velocity, and may also be safer during the loading process.
And the subs are a very consistent and uniform product.
2. I often state my opinion that Pyrodex 3f burns cleaner than 2F.
I think that it also ignites easier than 2F because the smaller grains flows better into the flash channel and under the nipple of many percussion guns.
This is never really a problem with revolvers due to their inline design.
Yes, Pyrodex 3F has been shown to burn faster which results in higher velocity than 2F, so approximately 10% less can be loaded.
777 is considered to be even more dificult to ignite than Pyrodex at times, depending on the gun.
That's probably due to its formulation without sulfur.
Sulfur lowers ignition temperature, so perhaps the less sulfur, the higher the ignition temperature needs to be.
777 is also more powerful than most black powders, and creates more felt recoil, so 15% - 20% less can be used compared to Goex, depending on the granulations.
Most people don't experience any or many problems with the sub's if they clean their gun, flash hole and nipple.
Residue can build up, but that's why they make nipple picks.
And the finer granulations of sub. powders helps to make for more reliable ignition.
Some guns can be quirky if they have a narrow flash channel or drum,which requires slapping the gun before ramming the ball so that the powder will flow into the flash channel.
Also, placing the hammer on 1/2 cock and removing any spent cap remnants from the nipple allows escaping air to whoosh the powder along under the nipple when the ball is rammed.
Black powder has the best ignition because of its formulation, and it also has the most sulfur, which may cause more fouling.
It depends on the brand and granulation of powder, and the humidity and how much is being loaded.
Not all black powder is the same because they are made with different wood charcoal.
Black powder is often easier to clean with simple water or soapy water, but there can also be more creosote produced.
Some sub. residue can be stubborn to remove, and there are solvents, soaps and household cleaners that can help.
Inadequate removal of fouling is what usually causes corrosion issues, even with black powder.
777 can be removed with simple water depending on factors like how much is loaded.
777 can burn the cleanest of the 3, or create a slightly sticky but mostly water soluble residue.
Higher amounts can cause it to carmelize with high heat to form a crust or beads of crust, that's usually in rifles with heavy loads and it can be stubborn to remove.
Smaller charges don't produce the same problem.
Any ignition issues that persist with any powder should be able to be rectified by cleaning or by using magnum caps as a last resort.
Most people never have a problem if they clean their gun unless the granulation is too large and their flash channe too small like when Pyrodex 2F is used.
Fouling can block the flash channel or nipple of nearly any gun after many shots with very heavy loads, which isn't always the fault of the powder.
