Question about Ed's red.

CoalCrackerAl

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I soon need to mix up a new batch. Im going skip the acetone. It just evaporates. On the ATF does it matter if it's dextron or not? I have some type F on hand. I no longer have a ford.
 
I soon need to mix up a new batch. Im going skip the acetone. It just evaporates. On the ATF does it matter if it's dextron or not? I have some type F on hand. I no longer have a ford.

It won't make the slightest difference. DEXTRON is merely another type of hydraulic fluid (it's a necessary medium for the transfer of pressure in the transmission case) like MERCON with a different additive package that will have no bearing on its role in the Ed's Red mixture. Even then, it's pretty much 'over kill' for firearms where the demands placed upon lubricants are rather low to begin with.

Lots of folks use plain old motor oil (5w30, 20w50, 15w50, what have you) to lubricate their firearms with no issues. ''Firearms specific'' lubricants typically—but not always—have corrosion inhibitor additives added to them whereas automotive lubricants don't, so some additional vigilance in terms of corrosion prevention might be necessary if using automotive lubricants.

Years ago, Armalite, the manufacturer of quality AR-15s, published Technical Note 64, Alternate Cleaning and Lubrication Materials for Small Arms (dated 10 October 2004) that stated, ''Twenty weight engine oil serves in an environment that is far more strenuous than normally found in small arms so it is normally quite successful. The Army authorities recommend synthetic oils such as Mobil 1. (In fact, one noted authority has used Mobil 1 as his personal firearm lubricant for over two decades.)''

Go with what pleases you.
 
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I also skip acetone for the same reason and it works fine for what I clean. I also use lamp oil for the kerosene - less odor.
I think the above answer covers the ATF.
 
I always skip adding acetone and lanolin. I don't want the acetone eating plastics or paints and I think the lanolin is redundant. I have made it in the past using MERCON instead of DEXTRON. I didn't like the smell of the MERCON. Seemed to work ok but really smelled bad IMHO. I use equal volumes of DEXTRON, mineral spirits, K1. I use it in my ultrasonic cleaner without it getting too hot. I let it cool when it hits 125 degrees. I don't know the flashpoint of this stuff and don't wanna find out the hard way. I always use outdoors and filter when it gets gunky.
 
I make it without the acetone as a lube. The acetone is added to thin things and allow deeper penitration. I also have a can of acetone that I can add to some ed's if things are rusty and I want to de-rust a joint first. I just dont mix it in when making a batch originally.
 
I looked up the formula yesterday out of curiosity. I couldn’t remember what lanolin was called. Since then this picture has popped up about 30 times. View attachment 1137488related for sure but not the same.

I have also seen that time and time again since the early 2000s.

I worked in heavy equipment repair for 15+ years and tried all of those items on that list and I can say they all work equally….and badly for my purposes. Even the much adored Kroil. Basically, penetrants need TIME and I didn’t have it. I usually went for a drill or a torch rather than wait the time it took for penetrants to work.

Kroil and ATF/acetone may work “better” than average but the difference between 6 and 12 hours (metaphorical numbers) for a job that has to be done in one hour is very moot indeed.

I believe the numbers are correct and the scientific or semi scientific process that was used. I just don’t believe there is all that much as it plays out in the real world.
 
I make it without the acetone as a lube. The acetone is added to thin things and allow deeper penitration. I also have a can of acetone that I can add to some ed's if things are rusty and I want to de-rust a joint first. I just dont mix it in when making a batch originally.

Actually the purpose for the acetone is for removing plastic wad residue in shotguns. I've never used it.

The two solvents are the Kerosene and mineral spirits. One is a polar solvent, and the other is a nonpolar solvent.
 
I read to not use synthetic transmission fluid. Just why not explained.

I've seen that too, and have also never seen any explanation.

I use synthetic ATF with no issues, both in my powder solvent (equal parts Amsoil synthetic ATF, Kerosene, and mineral spirits), and also my lube (5w-40 synthetic oil, Amsoil synthetic ATF, and a bit of anhydrous lanolin).
 
It won't make the slightest difference. DEXTRON is merely another type of hydraulic fluid (it's a necessary medium for the transfer of pressure in the transmission case) like MERCON with a different additive package that will have no bearing on its role in the Ed's Red mixture. Even then, it's pretty much 'over kill' for firearms where the demands placed upon lubricants are rather low to begin with.

Lots of folks use plain old motor oil (5w30, 20w50, 15w50, what have you) to lubricate their firearms with no issues. ''Firearms specific'' lubricants typically—but not always—have corrosion inhibitor additives added to them whereas automotive lubricants don't, so some additional vigilance in terms of corrosion prevention might be necessary if using automotive lubricants.

Years ago, Armalite, the manufacturer of quality AR-15s, published Technical Note 64, Alternate Cleaning and Lubrication Materials for Small Arms (dated 10 October 2004) that stated, ''Twenty weight engine oil serves in an environment that is far more strenuous than normally found in small arms so it is normally quite successful. The Army authorities recommend synthetic oils such as Mobil 1. (In fact, one noted authority has used Mobil 1 as his personal firearm lubricant for over two decades.)''

Go with what pleases you.
I use synthetic 20weight oil for cleaning my firearms. Whenever I do an oil change I have some left over because I don't need a full six quarts and it quickly becomes gun cleaning oil. I recommend you wear gloves while using it though because unlike something like Ballistol it's not considered non-toxic.
 
I use synthetic 20weight oil for cleaning my firearms. Whenever I do an oil change I have some left over because I don't need a full six quarts and it quickly becomes gun cleaning oil. I recommend you wear gloves while using it though because unlike something like Ballistol it's not considered non-toxic.

I couldn't agree more.

Regardless of the toxicity (or lack thereof) of any solvent, lubricant, or other ''firearm-specific'' maintenance product, it is probably wisest to wear gloves given the nature of the residue being flushed/cleaned from the gun itself. Direct exposure to gun cleaning products--even those with relatively low toxicity--can result in damage to skin separate and apart from toxic effects.
 
I've got Remoil, Balisol, and Kroil. Mostly use Remoil. I'm pretty cheap (jusy ask my wife) but this stuff goes a long ways.

My grandpa had a saying about guys that were so tight you couldn't pull a greased needle from... you know where... with a John Deer tractor.
 
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