Question for those that wet tumble with SS pins

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Rule3

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When cleaning a bottle neck case say 223/5.56 how are you absolutely sure that a pin is not inside the case?? Big straight wall cases like 45 ACP OK pretty easy

But after rinsing and the magnet and all that can't a pin be somehow lodged in the case? Do you have to tap each one or look inside??
:confused:
 
I've only used my ss pin tumbler twice so far and I dried my cases in our Maytag Drying Cabinet. It has screen racks inside for drying flat stuff such as sweaters etc. As I pulled the brass off the screens I tapped each one neck down on a bar magnet that was laying in a Tupperware box. Didn't find any pins though.
 
I load a lot of pistol. and use SS/pins and what I do is use my Dillon case/media separator that I used for walnut media. Works very well.
 
I have only been doing it for 4 months, and I am a paranoid person. When I pull cases out of the tumbler I whack the tops against plastic to dislodge anything. Then I deprime. I have had 1 pin stuck in a primer so far...a .223. It broke a RCBS decapping pin.

I tumble again after resizing to clean lube off. I visually inspect each before priming with a flashlight. Pretty quick to scan over a loading tray, but it will blind you a little. Pins are very obvious using this method.
 
There is something you need to check in bottle necked cases AFTER sizing and that's for an incipient head separation. I run a wire with a bent tip down the inside of each case to feel for the groove that starts above the web. Said wire will dislodge any stuck pins so, two birds with one stone, er, I mean wire.

What I've found is that out of 100 to 200 cases, 2 or 3 will have pins stuck in the flash holes so I check those as well. That will probably only happen with cases that take large rifle or large pistol size primers.

What you have to remember is that when you tumble in walnut shell, etc., you'll also get adherent material in some cases you should check for.
 
Pardon my ignorance, Im new to reloading. I know a pin or two would reduce case capacity for powder; but is it a serious problemas long as it's not obstructing the flash hole?
 
Since the pin would be behind the bullet it shouldn't hurt anything but I prefer to have only powder in the case and, besides, it would be a waste of pins.
 
Your barrel might not appreciate a stainless steel pin shot through it.:banghead:
:scrutiny:

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Rule3, I have only processed a few thousand 2.23/5.56 cases since I got the FART last December.

After drying them and putting them in the big ziplock bags (and moving the bags around, some) I did find a couple of pins at the bottom of the bags later on. If they were actually "hiding" inside cases, rather than just being pins that I missed seeing on the papertowels, I have no doubt that they were initially held inside the cases by only water, since the FART process cleans inside & out so very well.

During reload processing (where I feel & eyeball the exteriors), any pins in case would almost certainly fall out but, quite frankly, I am not worried about a pin hiding in a case as I see no damage that it could possibly do, so ... :)

The Two-Pins-Locked-Together-In-The-Flash-Hole situation could be an issue for someone that does not inspect their cases and/or is, perhaps, reloading in large QTYs so that case inspection may not be as careful.
 
I've ran probably a large wheelbarrow full of various rifle cases through my cement mixer SS pin rig, rinsed them all in a Frankford Arsenal media separator submerged in water, and have only found a couple dozen straggler pins. I dry the cases on a large movers blanket in the sun 'til they're bone dry, and any pins will fall right out. Pretty rare for a pin in a case to make it to my reloading bench.
 
My process is to de-prime (universal de-primer die), wet tumble, resize (and remove crimp if needed), trim to size, then into the dry tumbler to remove sizing lube (20 or 30 minutes). On the trim step I generally look them over pretty closely. Using the Giraud TriWay trimmer does shake them up a little and so far I haven't seen any pins... I typically only wet tumble when I buy range brass or my brass is extremely dirty, otherwise I am good for several dry tumbles before hitting them with wet tumble again, frankly it is way too much work and the dry tumble can get the exterior just as clean with a little extra time.
 
Easy - count the pins before you tumble, then make sure you have the same number after tumbling.

Honestly though, after thoroughly rinsing and shaking the water and pins out, I dump the brass on a towel. I then cover the brass and roll the ends of the towel, then shake vigorously from side to side. This dries the brass, shakes the water out from inside the bottle neck cases, and also shakes the pins out. There are typically a dozen or so pins after doing this that I pick up with a magnet.
 
Your barrel might not appreciate a stainless steel pin shot through it.:banghead:

Which was kinda why I asked.;)

A piece of corn cob or walnut I do not think would as bad as a SS pin going through a barrel. Even cheap SS is pretty hard,
 
I'm glad you asked because I've wondered about this too. I did have at least one instance where a pin was left inside the case. I know this because when I went to reload it, there was a clear pin sized stretch mark in the side of the case below the neck. It didn't rupture the case but it scared me nonetheless. Since then I have been more vigilant when rinsing/drying the cases after tumbling. I like the idea above about using a magnet.
 
You really should inspect every case prior to reloading. I wet tumble thousands each month, and .30 Carbine is hands down the worst as far as wedging pins in both the primer pocket and the case its self.

Don
 
Once the brass is thoroughly dry any pins left inside will fall out with normal handling (while inspecting for pins in primer pockets, case defects, and then tossing into a container). I always find a few that would not come out when wet though.
 
Not to start an argument or anything but all of these posts refer to why I dry tumble. The media that I use cleans the cases virtually like new, is fine enough that it doesn't stick in flash holes and I don't have to mess with drying brass.
 
Not to start an argument or anything but all of these posts refer to why I dry tumble. The media that I use cleans the cases virtually like new, is fine enough that it doesn't stick in flash holes and I don't have to mess with drying brass.
I get it. I felt like you do not too long ago.

I used vibratory case cleaners for years and was very satisfied with their case-cleaning capability ... un-til I ran my first load thru my new FART last December and saw what they looked like ... :what: ... new, inside & out they looked new! WHOA!

I was also happy with Dawn ... un-til I read about someone using AA W&W and experienced a DUH! moment (it wasn't the first and it won't be the last ;)).

Yesterday I decided to start Trail Boss load-development with .44mag and .44spc. I opened the .44spc case container and counted out the shiny-bright brass that I processed with AA W&W several months ago.

I opened the .44mag case container ... and they are all tarnished. They were the last batch that I processed with Dawn.

I will probably reprocess them with AA W&W before I do any production runs. :)

To me, drying brass is no more of an issue than "straggler" pins. I put the wet cases in flats in front of a fan (that is running anyway) and walk away. Next day, they are completely dry.
 
They sell different sized pins. I need some shorterr ones. My pins will definately lodge cross ways in the neck of a 25-06 case. They are easy to see, but must be pried out with a knife blade or such. A strong magnet run over the cases will cause that case with a stuck pin to stick to the magnet also.
 
The media that I use cleans the cases virtually like new...

You evidently don't know what "like new" looks like. I used all sorts of dry media in a tumbler for 35 years, and nothing cleans cases like wet tumbling with SS pins does.

Don
 
I just bought some AA W&W and it has a $5 rebate (at least from the store where I got it). Huge bottle, probably several years supply for The Rodentman.

I am anxious to try it which means I'm off to the range!
 
...and I don't have to mess with drying brass.

I continue to be amazed at the number of people who don't wet tumble who think that drying brass is a big deal, or even necessary.

It's metal. It gets wet. It dries...all by itself. Do you run outside after a rain and dry your car? Your mailbox? Most of us have rain gutters made out of metal...somehow they dry out between rains.

Unless you're a beginning reloader with a hundred cases that you need to reload the minute they come out of the tumbler, why would you even give a second thought to drying brass? You dry it the same way you dry any other metal in your life: leave it alone.
 
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