Question on an older snub?

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19-3Ben

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So, I'm no stranger to wheelguns, but am relatively new to snubbies. (I've had plenty of experience on mid frame guns. I'm only recently bitten by the snub bug!)

It seems modern snub nose revolvers have heavier triggers than their medium and large framed counterparts.
Was this always true, or is this just an example of "don't make 'em like they used to."

Reason I'm asking is that I was just offered a model 60 no dash for $350. I was really looking for an SP101 (want to be able to shoot .357mag) but I'm sorely tempted. Haven't seen it in person yet.
 
Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with J-frames of any vintage.

All of the Detective Specials I've tried had nice triggers that were not noticeably heavier than any other size Colt DA revolvers I've shot. My snub Security Six also has a very nice trigger. My K-frame snub Model 12 has a pretty lousy trigger when compared to other S&W revolvers I've tried. Don't know if that is normal for that model, or if I just got one with an issue.
 
My fault. I should have been more clear. The question is directed at small framed snub nose. In reference to the security six, I don't see any reason why a medium framed revolver with a short barrel would have a trigger any different than the longer barrel models (unless done on purpose to have a heavy trigger for perceived safety etc...)
 
Smaller frames have smaller parts and the leverage needed to operate them is higher because of this
 
Yup. The geometry of the fire control system in a snub is completely different. You can improve the trigger pull somewhat but you'll never come close to a K,L,N frame pull. That's OK, snubs are designed for fast and in your face confrontations and they work extremely well for that purpose.
 
In a medium/large frame a bad trigger can be fixed. Easily in fact. In a snub there just isn't much room for improvement. With a little work you can learn to shoot one just fine.
 
Agreed. A J-frame's lockwork is not the same as a K, L, or N-frame. There's only so much that can be done with them. Of course, if you learn to shoot a J-frame well and accurately, a K, L, or N will be like teflon-coated butter. :)
 
The smaller size limits the design and fit of the action. If that model 60 is in nice shape, buy it as $350 is an excellent price on a very fine revolver.
 
the small size of the J-Frame makes the geometry of the action less smooth and the trigger pull harder.

The later MIM guns are even worse.
 
J frames use a coil spring versus a leaf spring for the other models, never have seen a J frame with a excellent trigger but they can be made better!!
 
Oh man... Now I've got to unload a Taurus 85, and grab the cash to make this deal happen. Know anyone looking for an inexpensive snubbie?;)

And $350 is a good deal for the no dash M60 you say?
Now I just need to look to see if it's pinned, and do the revolver check out.
 
If it's a model 36 (no dash) the barrel will be pinned.

That said, the S&W 36 and Taurus 85 are about the same size, and have similar lockwork and coil mainsprings. I wouldn't expect a substantial difference in double-action trigger pulls, unless one or the other has been unwisely tampered with.
 
Nobody has said anything about the D frame Colt Snubbies yet! Pretty darn good. I think a Diamond back can be made as good as a Python trigger wise-I have seen it!
 
The only snubs I have are two Charter Arms Undercover revolvers in .38 Special. One is from 1987, purchased in that year, and the other is from 1966, inherited in 2010 when my dad died (don't know when he got it, but he didn't get it new.)

Both have triggers that are lighter than that on my Ruger Service Six (circa 1976), and about the same as on my Taurus Model 66 (from 1987.)
 
If you like a trigger that "stacks" then a Colt is a fine choice. I have always preferred the S&W's trigger. But either one can be learned with dedicated practice.
 
Maybe its a Pam vs. Crisco vs. Butter thing, but the M60 no-dash seems to print better on paper, and kinder to my knuckle, than other J Frame S&Ws.

Thats with Rem 158 HP SWC +P and similar skinny 'service' grip panels.

salty
 
Maybe its a Pam vs. Crisco vs. Butter thing, but the M60 no-dash seems to print better on paper, and kinder to my knuckle, than other J Frame S&Ws.

Thats with Rem 158 HP SWC +P and similar skinny 'service' grip panels.

salty
You know, as the S&W boys are fond of saying the older the better.
 
I have two "J" frames no lock, one a snubby and one a 3"er. Both have actually very nice triggers. And they weren't smith'ed either.
 
So, I'm no stranger to wheelguns, but am relatively new to snubbies. (I've had plenty of experience on mid frame guns. I'm only recently bitten by the snub bug!)

It seems modern snub nose revolvers have heavier triggers than their medium and large framed counterparts.
Was this always true, or is this just an example of "don't make 'em like they used to."


Reason I'm asking is that I was just offered a model 60 no dash for $350. I was really looking for an SP101 (want to be able to shoot .357mag) but I'm sorely tempted. Haven't seen it in person yet.

Ben, I've been carrying a J frame off duty since 1985, and an action job on these little beauties has been popular for 50+ years, so I'm going to guess that they've always been a little stiff.

LD
 
Differences in parts size/shape & coil vs.leaf spring (between J & K/L/N-frame guns) having already been mentioned, I can only add that in my experience even stainless J-frame triggers improve with use.
Matter of fact, I find shooting a most pleasant type of "trigger job".
 
So, 19-3 Ben -- Were you able to pick that bad boy up? Just my opinion, but if you're only gonna own one J-frame, the Model 60 is the one to have (unless, of course, you prefer blued, then the 36 is acceptable).

I'd love to find a clean Model 60 for 350 bucks. Around here, I'm seeing 'em for 450 - 500.

SA trigger on my 60-4 is quite simply, superb.
 
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