evtSmtx
Member
On recobs the blurb said "requires tight compression to ignite and burn efficiently". How other than soot will I know if I'm loading right?
question on H-110
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BSA1
member
Group size.
I don't pay attention to chronographs as I have never had a target or game animal complain.
Stay below max charges. I find H-110/W-296/really gives noticeable improvement as it approaches one grain below max load listed in reloading manual. As usual every gun is a rule unto itself.
I don't pay attention to chronographs as I have never had a target or game animal complain.
Stay below max charges. I find H-110/W-296/really gives noticeable improvement as it approaches one grain below max load listed in reloading manual. As usual every gun is a rule unto itself.
tightgroup tiger
Member
You will have unburnt powder all over the table in front of you, and/or you will see brown smoke in front of you.
It's just another sign of low pressure.
It's just another sign of low pressure.
Steve in PA
Member
A good roll crimp. Been using H110 in my .44 Magnums for 20+ years. Love that powder.
gamestalker
member
I have been burning a lot of H110 / 296 for a good 30 or so years, and although it can have it's little quirks, as long as you use a magnum primer, don't reduce it, and use a good stout roll crimp, it will put a smile on your face 100 out of 100 trigger pulls.
H110 performs best the closer you get to published max charge. Now this doesn't mean one must load to published max, but rather, that working up instead of down, is how to develop with this powder.
GS
H110 performs best the closer you get to published max charge. Now this doesn't mean one must load to published max, but rather, that working up instead of down, is how to develop with this powder.
GS
evtSmtx
Member
Rule-3:
B-b-b-b-b-u-t:
a) Hodgdon's load data specifies "Remington 2 1/2, Large Pistol" (I was thinking of starting with the minimum recommended charge from Hodgdon and using Federal Large Pistol)
b) How does any of what you said address the quoted admonition "requires tight compression to ignite and burn efficiently"?
c) I'm sure you know way more than me about this area of reloading but I'm not sure what you mean
d) Are the top end loads (range is 23.0 to 24.0 for 240 gr jsp) really compressed loads?
B-b-b-b-b-u-t:
a) Hodgdon's load data specifies "Remington 2 1/2, Large Pistol" (I was thinking of starting with the minimum recommended charge from Hodgdon and using Federal Large Pistol)
b) How does any of what you said address the quoted admonition "requires tight compression to ignite and burn efficiently"?
c) I'm sure you know way more than me about this area of reloading but I'm not sure what you mean
d) Are the top end loads (range is 23.0 to 24.0 for 240 gr jsp) really compressed loads?
evtSmtx
Member
I'm still confused as to why multiple people recommend magnum primers when Hodgdon doesn't.
In this corner we have the Hodgdon recommendation.
In this corner we have folks with decades of experience.
In this corner we have the Hodgdon recommendation.
In this corner we have folks with decades of experience.
243winxb
Member
44 magnum
Hard to get a good photo.
The rounded edge of the WLP is gone when loading 296/23gr., when compared to Unique/10.2grs with a 250gr cast bullet. Note that Winchester and Remington only make 1 ea. large pistol* primer.
Hard to get a good photo.
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evtSmtx
Member
243winxb: whachew tawkin 'bout - "rifle primer"?
dh1633pm
Contributing Member
I use H110 with 150 Grain bullets for 300 BLK. Never used Magnum primers or had an issue. I am a few 10ths over max. Been using the load since before there was loading data for the Blackout. Using a Model 7 Remington and not an AR. Also use in my 45 Colt Rounds.
I found H110 to work better than other powders in the Colt so I settled on it. Secondary benefit was found later with the blackout.
I found H110 to work better than other powders in the Colt so I settled on it. Secondary benefit was found later with the blackout.
243winxb
Member
WLP is Winchester larger pistol, primers. There is only one made. It covers everything from 45acp to 44 magnum or any large pistol needs. My fault, i typed rifle instead of pistol above. Changed it.
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I believe we already discussed this in another thread. Just as Winchester does not have a LP mag primer,
H110 is hard to ignite and burn complete, apparently Rem primer is good enough.Rem does not have a designated large mag Primer for pistols only for large rifle
http://www.remington.com/products/a...ire-primers/kleanbore-centerfire-primers.aspx
You can look at Hodgdon data for other calibers and powder, say 357 Mag and using HP38 they use a Magnum primer when it doesn't need one.
Look at 41 magnum, 357 magnum, just depends on what test they did and when, the primer THEY used is not written in stone, Look at some manuals.
Post #8
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=790968
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bluetopper
Member
From my experience with H-110, if you load a good full stiff charge, a standard primer works fine.
I suspect that you are using rifle primers in your 300 BLK, at least I do.
Standard rifle primers are hotter than pistol magnum primers so they ignite H-110 just fine in 300 BLK.
I am not sure I understand where the OP got information on H-110 needing to be a compressed load but it performs just fine uncompressed.
As others have said, one should stay within the upper and lower limits of data published from reputable sources.
H-110 and W296 do not play well if loaded below published minimums.
I also like H-110/W296. I use it in 300 BLK, 357 Magnum, and 460 S&W Magnum.
H110 was original a surplus 30 Carbine powder (Olin) (110 for the bullet) so a small rifle primer was the primary ignition which is why a Mag primer for handguns is the "norm"
The blurb from Recobs Reloading probably means it is a dense powder (being ball) as compared to a stick powder so it is harder to ignite.
The blurb from Recobs Reloading probably means it is a dense powder (being ball) as compared to a stick powder so it is harder to ignite.
savanahsdad
Member
the mag primer is a safety thing, not only is it hard to light but it's temp sensitive ,
not only do us folks up here go to the range with snow on the ground , but we hunt in -0deg weather, they claim it's fine down to 10deg but I for 1 am not taking any chances , mag primers for me
not only do us folks up here go to the range with snow on the ground , but we hunt in -0deg weather, they claim it's fine down to 10deg but I for 1 am not taking any chances , mag primers for me
Reefinmike
Member
Are you using small rifle primers? Most h110 loads are pistol loads which call for a small pistol magnum primers, any small rifle primer is sufficient for the job. I believe it has been verified by cci that their small pistol magnum and small rifle primers are the same thing. Same cup thickness and primer compound charge.
I use cci small rifle primers with h110 in both 300blk and 357 mag. I see people here talking about how touchy the powder is and i havent seen that. Ive developed 164gr coated lead loads between 13gr and 17gr without any issue- nearly 25% below max. Probably burnt up 24 pounds of the stuff and i havent found it touchy.
I love WW296, AA9, H110 for .44 mag revolver loads.
Usually run 180 or 200 gr bullets, but also do a few 240 gr.
Manuals say not to run lighter bullets. I do, with healthy crimp and compressed load. They shoot great, kill deer dead.
Blast is annoying though.
180's in longer bbls come up to pressure...........my 8 3/8" 629 was rude.
Kinda like getting slapped in the face with a cookie sheet every caress of the trigger.
Maybe not the most efficient or cheapest powders to run.........but you won't double charge a case
Light bullets and max charges will cause a bit of flame cutting. It only goes so far and is not a prob on the topstrap. Might accelerate forcing cone wear.
But I don't shoot that much. If I did then I'd smile and send it back for a new bbl..............having had enough fun to wear a forcing cone out.
Current reloading manuals usually show my loads above max.
Case life is dandy.
Usually run 180 or 200 gr bullets, but also do a few 240 gr.
Manuals say not to run lighter bullets. I do, with healthy crimp and compressed load. They shoot great, kill deer dead.
Blast is annoying though.
180's in longer bbls come up to pressure...........my 8 3/8" 629 was rude.
Kinda like getting slapped in the face with a cookie sheet every caress of the trigger.
Maybe not the most efficient or cheapest powders to run.........but you won't double charge a case
Light bullets and max charges will cause a bit of flame cutting. It only goes so far and is not a prob on the topstrap. Might accelerate forcing cone wear.
But I don't shoot that much. If I did then I'd smile and send it back for a new bbl..............having had enough fun to wear a forcing cone out.
Current reloading manuals usually show my loads above max.
Case life is dandy.
evtSmtx
Member
Thanlks Hookey - I've got a bunch of Federals I want to use up so I can get rid of that stupid large box
BSA1
member
You are overthinking this. The answers to your questions are best found on the shooting range.
Every gun is a rule unto itself. Very slight differences in the cartridge can bring desirable results. Bullet crimp, cartridge overall length, a 1/10 of a grain of powder charge and, yep, brand and type of primer.
As a novice or working with a new powder there is nothing wrong with using recommended minimum charge and primer. However keep in mind the relative burning rate of the powder you are using. Fastburning powders such as Bullseye can reach peak pressures quickly whereas slow burning powders such as H-110 will not reach peak performance until you get close to max recommended charge.
The air space between the powder and bullet is safe when using smokeless powder. H-110 (W-296) happens to be one that performs with a fuller case. I don't know if my pet load is compressed. It is very accurate without any over pressure. The game I have shot has never asked me what my powder charge was. They just laid down and died.
I spent a summer working with W-296 the same way you are proposing. I had no problems whatsoever. The result was a lot of trigger time and the discovery that 296 reached it's peak performance with the bullet and gun I was shooting when I got to a grain below max load. As a result of all of that shooting I have a lot confidence in the safety of using this load in my 44's
tcoz
Member
I've never heard the admonition about compressed loads with H110. It's my go-to 300 BLK powder and I have nothing but praise for it using upper middle loads which are not compressed.
As for using magnum primers, I talked to Hodgdon before I started using H110 and they told me that they recommend the use of magnum or mil-spec primers with all of their spherical powders because they're coated with a retardant to slow ignition and burn and magnum strength primers will ignite the powder more completely. This was for rifle. I don't know whether the recommendation holds true for pistol use.
As for using magnum primers, I talked to Hodgdon before I started using H110 and they told me that they recommend the use of magnum or mil-spec primers with all of their spherical powders because they're coated with a retardant to slow ignition and burn and magnum strength primers will ignite the powder more completely. This was for rifle. I don't know whether the recommendation holds true for pistol use.
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