Question on metal restoration

[woof]

I have recently located a 50 year old Winchester 37 that was in my family. It has been sitting in a closet for who knows how many decades. It isn't real rusty but there is a surface of "stuff" on it. I just wiped it off because I didn't know what to do or not do. I would like to get the metal somewhat restored, not a showcase finish, but brought back to where it can be kept up the way it should have been.

I asked a gunsmith/FFL when I was there today and he says, oh that would run about $350. I choked on that. Is that realistic? For the metal only not the wood? I was thinking maybe $100 or so. I can understand this guy maybe only wants to do show quality work, and I don't want something shoddy either. Surely there is an adequate if more minimal approach?

 

[fixyurgun]

Imo that price is way high. Jim

 

[rcmodel]

Well, you certainly don't want to re-blue it if there is any factory finish remaining.
Re-bluing an old Winchester is akin to burning hundred dollar bills, both to pay for it, and for the decreased collector value a re-finished gun has.

I'd go to the hardware store and get a package of 0000 (extra-fine) steel wool. Use it & light gun oil or solvent to remove all the surface rust.

It will not hurt the remaining bluing unless you go crazy rubbing hard in one place.

Once you get all the surface rust cleaned off, apply a coat of R.I.G. or Sheath, or other good rust-proofing product.

You can also use the 0000 steel wool & Lemon Oil furniture polish to rub down the stock and get any old dirt, cigarette smoke, etc., off of it.

I think you will be surprised at how good it looks when you get done.

BTW: I agree $350 to re-blue a single-barrel shotgun is WAY too high!

rcmodel

 

[ieszu]

I can see where the $350 might be reasonable for are-blue job...

Labor to remove pits and polish to 320 grit could be a few hours (if it is done by hand) and then the re-blue itself.... could be $100 for the bluing and about 4 hours for a decent (not show-room) finish... $60 an hour for the labor and you are at $350 easy...

I once brought a Remington 7600 up to a semi-gloss finish by hand, took over 7 hours of pure hand work.... If I had charged my real rate for it he could have bought a new gun, but it was for my father-in-law (and I like him), so he got it done for a beer.

 

[brigadier]

$350 may be a reasonable price depending on what sort of work needs done. If there is any blemish to the gun's interior parts, you can very easily be stuck with a huge price tag if having it worked at a mom and pop store. Pro refinishers can usually get away with a smaller price because they are already prepped and set up to do that sort of thing all day. Even then, they still usually charge around $200 just for a simple refinishing, not necessary including any prep work on blemish. Special care for antiques can rack up an even bigger price at times. Bottom line is that we haven't and cannot inspect the gun to see what it really needs for restoration, we don't really know if that's a good price or not.
I have restored some old guns in hobby practice that I wouldn't have done professionally for as little as $350.

 

[woof]

I don't really know how to describe the condition. it was never really abused or left to the elements I know that. The deteriorated condition is from being in a closet (not a basement) for a very long time. I know who last used it and he would have kept it cleaned. he died 25 years ago and I really think I am the first person to have touched it since him. Let me ask this: is there any way to tell how bad the surface rust (can it be anything other than rust?) is before starting to work with the steel wool? Or is it like, you just set to work getting the gunk off and when it's off you see how much blue you have left? By the way it is mostly the barrel. The receiver is much better. PS- would pictures help? I can take some tomorrow.

 

[mike724]

I've had good results from GeorgeR, a member of this forum. His web page is http://www.gunblue.homestead.com

 

[rcmodel]

Or is it like, you just set to work getting the gunk off and when it's off you see how much blue you have left?

Exactly!

If the late former owner kept it well oiled in the closet 25 years ago, it probably has a coating of dried oil & lint on it covering up the bluing.

I got hold of a 1950's 94 Winchester like that and the bluing was perfect under the dried gunk.

Just get the 0000 steel wool & oil and see what's under there.
You can't hurt anything.

If the bluing is a little suspect, you will perhaps want to reblue it anyway, although I wouldn't if it were mine.

rcmodel

 

[Grandpa Shooter]

Thought this was on "mental restoration" and thought, "I gotta read this one!"

 

[Jim K]

I guess anything marked "Winchester" is collectible to some extent, but the Model 37 must be somewhere near the bottom of the list, and will be for a long time to come. If I owned one and wanted to have it reblued, I wouldn't worry about future collectors.

Jim

 

[Jolly Rogers]

Rcmodel said
"Once you get all the surface rust cleaned off, apply a coat of R.I.G. or Sheath, or other good rust-proofing product."
Better hurry if you want R.I.G. as it is being discontinued...
Joe

 

[DnPRK]

Use 0000 steel wool and gun oil to remove surface rust. Rub lightly, don't scrub so hard you take off the remaining blue.

 

[Clemson]

I guess anything marked "Winchester" is collectible to some extent, but the Model 37 must be somewhere near the bottom of the list, and will be for a long time to come. If I owned one and wanted to have it reblued, I wouldn't worry about future collectors.

Jim, I would normally agree, but take a look at gunsamerica.com or the firearms auction sites. Model 37's are selling for up to $700. It is crazy!

By the way, the steel wool and oil advice is excellent. That will do no harm, but will clean up the surface so that you can see what you have.

Clemson

 

[jimmyraythomason]

RCMODEL is absolutely correct! If bluing is necessary, have the barrel bead blasted or degrease and buff with emerycloth yourself(like polishing a shoe) and let the shop run it though the bluing tanks. If the receiver is okay leave it alone. IMHO of course.

 

[Sunray]

Use the 0000 steel wool and oil or a fine brass wire wheel in a bench grinder with a light touch. Eye protection is essential. Either will take off surface rust without bothering any remaining bluing.
Do either in a wee spot and look for pitting. Literally tiny places where the rust has eaten away the steel. Pitting shouldshow through light rust too. If it's heavily pitted, don't bother doing the whole thing.

 

[mrmeval]

Johnson Safety bought Silencio and it looks like everything was dumped but the hearing protection.