Questions about getting a cerakote job on a stainless 1911 slide....

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MIL-DOT

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Hey guys, I've always liked the two-tone look, and never had anything in it, and I've been ruminating on having a cerakote job done to a stainless Springfield Mil-spec slide (so this is stricly for aesthetics rather than function).
The questions are as follows:
-Is cerakote about the best option available, factoring in cost, availability, resilience,etc?
-What would a typical fair price for this job be? (from a proffessional operation, I am NOT doing this myself).
-Will it be difficult to get a "satin" or semi-gloss black finish (versus a high-gloss or fully matte finish)?
-I was thinking I might even prefer they only coat the outside of the slide, leaving the inside as exposed stainless, partially for easier cleaning. This would also leave my rail-to-rail contact completely un-altered, which is already extremely tight as it is. I don't see an advantage to adding anything in there that could possibly be a game-changer, cycling-wise. Are there any reasons this would be a good, or bad, idea? Or would they have to uniformlly apply the stuff to the entire slide?
Any advice, info , warnings, recommendations,etc. are much appreciated.......
 
Soooo.... nobody knows nuthin' about no cerakotin'. I guess, in the interest of getting page after page of responses, maybe I should have added, "....and would this be an ideal gun for my girlfreind/wife, or should I get a Glock ?" :banghead: :scrutiny: :rolleyes:
 
I didn't ignore you first post. I just didn't respond because I felt that the original stainless slide is superior to a cerakoted finish in all ways except (possibly, and only possibly) aesthetically -- and felt a professionally-polished stainless slide could be as attractive and unique as any spray and bake finish on stainless.

I didn't think you were looking for that type of response.

If you were starting with a more conventional carbon steel slide (or frame), the cerakote finish offers practical advantages -- and you get the aesthetic improvements you're seeking as well.
 
I'm with Walt, SS is the best workin' finish as far as I'm concerned.

In the interest of being helpfull though, there are some other coatings that can achieve a semi gloss black finish and won't decrease the already tight fitment of your pistol and are in all likelyhood a better finish.

I may be wrong but there's things like Birdsong's "Black T" finish and meloniting amonst many other are options.
 
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Given your goals, and an already tight gun I would rethink Cerakote. It's a pretty thick finish as far as finishes go.

Assuming you're going for black as the second tone in the two tone, there are process out there that blacken stainless steel without appreciably changing the metal or dimensions.

Robar's Blackened Stainless is one:
https://robarguns.com/custom-firearm-finishes/blackened-stainless-steel/

TechPlate will blue stainless for you:
http://www.techplate.com/firearms_pl.htm

There are Stainless blackening kits:
http://www.caswellplating.com/metal-finishing-solutions/stainless-steel-blackener.html
 
Thanks guys, those were all helpful responses, and that addressed the concern I had that this might be not only a frivolous waste of money, but an outright bad idea, for practical reasons. I'm thinking you guys are right, I should just leave well enough alone. Thanks again......
 
Well I have no experience with Ceracoat....yet.

I have a used semi-auto with a well-worn finish. I had been holding off on refinishing it until I got some ftf problems with it worked out. Replacement of the springs has solved the reliability issues so it is back on the project list for refinishing.

My gun is carbon steel. There is a local company that Ceracoats firearms and I have handled some the guns they have done. They Ceracoat the entire gun both inside and out and I am very impressed with how smooth the slide on the frame rails operate. Like you I have been considering a two tone finish. The Burnt Bronze frame and Graphite Black slide looks particularly attractive to me.

I also have a all stainless steel 1911. I have always thought a hard chrome type finish will give it the most protection in really harsh conditions such as salt water.

Personally I would not hesitate to Ceracoat my stainless steel 1911 if it suited my fancy.
 
BSA1 said:
I also have a all stainless steel 1911. I have always thought a hard chrome type finish will give it the most protection in really harsh conditions such as salt water.

One of the advantages I've heard claimed for hard chrome finishes is that if you've had trigger/action work done BEFORE the refinish, that work is slicker, and is more resistant to wear (i.e., lasts much longer.)

I sent a black-finished slide off to be nickel plated**, and it was so tight afterwards that I spent a good bit of time with sandpaper and credit cards opening up the tracks in the slide (it was a CZ pattern gun.) It would NOT cycle it was so tight. Even thinly plated guns can be problematic if the gun is tight beforehand.

**My first try a keying the italicized part above got it all mixed around as I keyed it -- and I didn't notice. (Duh). My point was that plating can add thickness where it's not expected and problems, and I think cerakote would be worse than nickel-plating a slide or frame.
 
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