Questions about S&W Model 10-6

[Turkish]

Well, the other day I picked up an S&W M10-6 for $150 and I've got a few questions. First, can anyone tell me when it was made? The serial number is C8239XX.

I also need to know what frame type this is, N or K. Alot of places online list it as a K, but stamped on the crane(I beleive that is the name for the arm that holds the cylinder?) is the letter N, as well as some numbers that are also stamped under the grips on the frame so I assumed that it was an N-frame. Going on this assumption, I bought a set of Hogue Monogrips for a square butt N-frame, and they stuck off the rear a bit. In the instructions it says due to differances the grips may not fit perfectly, so I shaved them down to be more comfortable. Now today I start thinking that this is actually a K-frame, and now I've got a set of grips I can't use, sell or return.

Last question, I notice S&W offers a few packages including a restoration service. Proividing the gun shoots well I was thinking of seeing about how much that would cost. The gun is in decent condition, holster wear mainly and the side of the frame are patinaed(SP?) a bit. The cylnider has a bit of side to side play, but not alot. Trigger feels GREAT, one smooth pull for DA and a SA that is barely noticable. The worst part of the gun are the stock grips, you can tell that this gun has been USED by looking at them. There are a few small chips missing, and the checkering is gone in a few areas. Based on that information, do you guys think I should get a resto package, or just have it reblued? Thanks in advance, and pics will be posted later on today hopefully.

 

[Hkmp5sd]

The S&W Model 10 is a "K" frame.

 

[GaryP]

It is a K frame manufactured in 1966 according to Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson by Jim Supica and Richard Nahas.

 

[Turkish]

Darn, guess I got a pair of garbage grips now. Any idea why there was an N stamped on the part? As I said, it was definetly a part original to the gun due to the numbers matching on the frame of the gun. Another thing i found odd, on the crane and frame under the grips was the same number, which i understand since it's shorter and easier to stamp on smaller parts of the gun. But then, on the inside on the left side grip itself was stamped the guns serial number. Any reason they use differant numbers to match parts to a frame like that?

 

[Majic]

Revolvers will sometimes have assembly numbers on major parts (frame, yoke, sideplate, cylinder) to keep them together as they go thru the factory.
There is not a lot of difference in the N-frame and K/L-frame stocks. If you have cut the stocks down so they now fit then use them.
If the play in the cylinder is really side to side then have it repaired. If you mean rotational play then a small amount of play is normal. You can ask the factory to give it a check-up when you send it it and they will contact you as to what repairs are needed.

 

[Turkish]

I know about the use of assembly numbers, I was just curious why they would use an assembly number on one part, and the actual serial number to the gun on the stocks. I did cut down part of the Hogues, only problem is they are still too large at the top and look horrible. The play is both side to side and rotational, both small amounts but still there. Maybe I will call S&W on Monday and ask about repairs/restoration services, I notice there is no price on resto service listed on the web site because of the availability of parts.

 

[donkee]

I wouldn't worry about parts availability for the Model 10. Check out numrich gun parts, they have anything you would need for a Model 10, so I would assume S&W would have parts galore too. I am thinking about sending my M10 off to S&W for a polishing and re-bluing. But I'll have to pickup the GP100 first, don't want to be without a revlover for any amount of time!

 

[lee n. field]

I wouldn't worry about parts availability for the Model 10.

Really. I can't think of any other product made for over a century.

 

[Old Fuff]

Turkish:

Assembly numbers may or may not include part or all of the serial number. One reason for assembly numbers is that they are sometimes shorter then a full serial number, and can be used over. That said, at one time S&W usually marked the cylinder, extractor star, yoke, barrel and other parts as well as the frame with the serial number. A lot of this depends on when the gun was made.

The reason your original stocks were serial numbered is that when your gun was made, S&W would individually fit them to each gun before the wood was finished, and the frame blued or nickel plated. The number insured that the right ones would be put back on the revolver they were fitted too. Of course that isn't done today. Collector's will sometimes pay a bit extra if the original stocks are still on the gun and numbered too it.

Since the gun was made during the 1960's and is apparently well used, a factory overhall and possibly refinishing wouldn't be a bad idea, unless you plan to use it as a "kick-around."

Sorry about your experience concerning a K vs. N frame. Hopefully you'll ask us before you buy anything next time ... And oh yes, the price you paid is great.

 

[GaryP]

Turkish,

My S&W Model 14-1 is 1961 vintage and has the serial number on the underside of the right grip. S&W discontinued this practice in the 1960's.