Range report: S&W 37 airweight

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STAGE 2

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I've been looking for a snubby for some time to complete my revolver collection. This nice little 37 fell into my lap a couple of days ago. For some reason there has been a wave of pre-lock NIB snubbies on the market. I don't know why, but then again I'm not about to question such wonderful things. So on to the good stuff.

I was debating about picking up one of the new scandium snubbies, but there were a couple things stopping me. First, and most obvious was the lock. Out of the several revolvers I own, only one has the lock. It pains me to keep it in the collection, but its one of those things that I'd kick myself for if I sold it. Second, the price. I can justify close to $700 for a sig or an HK, or any other pistol that I'm going to run a bajillion rounds through, but that price is awfully hefty for a 5 shot snubby. Third is fit and finish. While the new scandium pieces are literally as light as a feather, they just dont feel right. The trigger is gritty as is the cylinder, and it just doesn't look as polished as a $700 revolver should be.

Enter the 37 airweight, everything a snub should aspire to be. The finish is matte black and non-reflective, and beautifully done. No scratches, tool marks, or uneven application. As I mentioned before there are no suspicious looking holes planted in the side of the revolver per Queen Hillary's specifications. The trigger is nice in single action as expected, but very very smooth and surprisingly light in double action. And the best part... the firing pin is located where it should be... on the hammer.

While not as light as the newer wondermetal revolvers, at 15oz, this pistol could definately get lost in a pocket. And while it doesn't seem like much, the extra 3oz seem to make a difference as shooting this revolver was a pleasure. Just enought heft to make it comfortable to shoot, but lite enough to disappear when carried. Finish it off with a set of low profile boot grips and you have (in my humble opinion) the perfect carry piece. And now to the shooting.

It was raining on and off today so I only had a chance to run through about half a box of S&B. The sights took the first couple of rounds to get used to as the front blade is relatively high while the rear is simply a notch in the top of the frame. Once I figured out the sight picture, the rest of the rounds went nicely into about a 3"-4" group at about 15yds. No malfunctions, and everything worked smooth as glass. I had prepared myself for some handjarring recoil, but to my surprise it was not bad at all. Much less muzzle flip than I expected and reacquisition of the target was excellent for this type of weapon. I understand that recoil is completely subjective, so I say this with the caveat that I am hardly, if ever, bothered by recoil, but it would not be uncomfortable at all to spend an afternoon at the range with this pistol.

As we speak, this pocket rocket is sitting on the dresser in a custom holster with a bianchi speed strip dying to be carried. I highly recommend that any of you folks looking for a snubnose revolver take a long look at these model 37's. They are of noticeably higher quality than what S&W is currently putting out, and for just under $400 out the door, they are a super bargain.

S2
 
Rumor has been that these 37's were from a cancelled foreign order. RSR was distributing them here in the US. No lock, no MIM parts, hammer-mounted firing pin, mostly with bobbed hammers but some with the spurred hammer. I bought 2.
 
I have an old 37, it is one of my favorites. REALLY accurate, easy to carry and easy to shoot. It would be one of the last of my guns to go if I had to get rid of them.
 
I definitely regret trading mine off, but then again I got a cherry Inland M1 Carbine for it. It was my ideal pocket snubby after I installed a set of Wolff reduced power hammer and rebound springs.

True enough, the common story is that these were for a cancelled foreign order (either South American, or South African, IIRC).

Matter of fact, I think I'm going to trade something else back for my beloved lock-less, MIM-less, 37-2. Eh, envy is a good thing sometimes!
 
heres mine........had it redone with a charcoal parkerizing.....when i got it back i thought the timing was screwed up by the finishers, but it turned out to be a build up of "stuff" in one of the cylinder stop notches.......


shes A.J. squared away now and on my ankle or pocket depending on whats going on.......

i should add, mine is an "old school" gun, pinned barrel that had the hammer spur bobbed.

though, i am torn on my next gun purchase, between a Seecamp .32, these new properly made snubbies, or an old school model 60 .38spl that i will "bob" the hammer on.......
 
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The S&W Model 37 Air-Weights

Hello
I just picked up this model 37 Air-Weight at a Gun Show.It amazed me because it appears to have been carried little, and shot even less.Serial showed it as a 1982 Issue and it Must have been a nightstand gun, now it will ride in the Factory S&W Shoulder holster I have for it. I am Not sure when the finishes changed but this one is a high gloss Black anodized example ?I have read some complaints about durability of this model compared to the Stainless or Carbon stell blued or Nickel finished revolver's, but After owning & carrying all three examples, I opt for the Light weight carry model 37 over it's heavier cousins, which the new purchase thrill of carrying the heavier cousin's wore off quickly due to extra weight..NOT Needed.;) Regards, Hammerdown

DSCF6717.jpg

DSCF6716.jpg
 
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I have 2 myself, both w/ spurless hammers. Just 'cause you probably will never see another lock-less, fanged-hammer Smith again. And so very light in the pocket.

Prefer the SP101 for high-volume work, and really stout loads.

I heard it was a Japanese order that didn't get filled.

You can still find these new for $350-$400.
 
those square butt S&W's are gett'in harder and harder
too find; especially in the J-frames

Hello AlaDan
I figured the square butt will give you a little more to hang on to with the recoil, and they are a lot less common. Regards, Hammerdown
 
its just refreshing to hear somebody say theyre going to actually shoot AND carry a piece that pretty.

while ive had some guns that looked so nice when i got them, im not at all ashamed of the charactor theyve now come to exibit......

museum pieces are nice, but honest pieces are nicer.


wow, i just noticed that you say yours is a '71 era gun, and it doesnt have a pinned barrel. i wonder how old mine is.....
 
wow, i just noticed that you say yours is a '71 era gun, and it doesnt have a pinned barrel. i wonder how old mine is.....


Hello Jerry
My Mistake. I read the reference book WRONG. Mine is a 1982. Sorry about that, and thanks for catching it. Hammerdown
 
I have one of the RSR guns as well. It has become my primary CCW. It's deadly accurate with Speer's 135gr SB load.

Chris
 
Hello
I managed to get some range time with my newly found model 37 Yesterday. It was surprisingly accurate at the 15 Yard line to me{And My Aged Eyes}. I also was contacted by a forum member asking where to get a set of grip's like shown on my Square butt model above, and by mistake removed it from my P.M.'s If you were this member please P.M. me again, as I have come onto a pair, that is available to swap or sell like the ones shown above. Regards, Hammerdown
 
.38 Special Versus .38 Plus-P. Loads

That's what I want to know. Are the RSR guns built on a J-Magnum frame.I already have a pre-lock 442, but maybe I need a 37!

Hello Dollar An
Hour

I have heard and seen the horror stories of the .38 Plus-P. loads for years. I also am an avid well seasoned Hand loader, that does not take chances, but rather improve accuracy over Velocity. Most of my older Load Manuals are shown to have a Higher Powder measurement dispensed for the Early Plus-P. starting and ending loads, than the newer Manuals I use now. I have seen Little difference in the Overall velocity of a Plus-P. load to chance Blowing up a fine Vintage example of the S&W Early-J-frame Air-Weights as well. In Most cases the Velocity differences are as Little as 50-100 Feet Per. Second between a standard .38 Special load compared to the Plus-P. Load. The most I have seen a Plus-P. load vary is a Maximum of 200 Feet Per. Second, and to me this is Not worth the Gamble of Loosing an expensive Vintage -J-Frame Air-Weight. I further think the Commercial Ammo Companies use the Plus-P. Hype to attract Shooter's to Purchase ammo that in essence May ruin a handgun, Only to make a shooter FEEL He is using a Magnum style .38 Special load, and if the Consumer was educated in what little GAIN they got by using this style ammo, would Not bother to spend the extra to obtain it. Here is a link to a reloading site I use often, and if you compare the .38 Special to the Much Bragged on .38-Plus-P. load information, You will quickly see your self the Gain is Not worth the Gamble of ruining a vintage S&W Air-Weight. I also will Point out that this ammo reloading site is a guide to show the actual velocity claimed, and further suggest the use of Commercially loaded Factory ammo, as I Doubt S&W would replace a spoiled revolver if a Hand Load was the culprit that may have ruined their product. I also use all 158 Grain XTP Style bullets to avoid splitting the forcing cone, and feel the extra bullet weight is better Kinetic energy even though Velocity suffers a bit, Let's face it, the S&W-J-Frame Snubby is intended for Point Blank up close shooting as a self defense carry Hand gun, Not a Long shooting Target revolver even though Most will shoot and score as well as some Target revolver's I have. I further feel if a shooter wants Magnum performance, They should invest in a .357 Magnum rather than make a Vintage Air-Weight shoot what it was not Designed or intended to shoot. I Know several that have shot the Plus-P. loads out of their Classic Air-Weights and claim they have had no issues, but have also SEEN ones that Exploded when Placed on Plus-P. diets as well, and the Mystery Lies in just How Much will a classic Air-Weight will take before letting go from over pressure of the Plus-P. round. Here is a link to the site I use, and it is amazing to me that some will chance a revolver to Gain so Little. I further Know, this Ammo issue has sparked argument for Years, but if the ammo was safe in vintage S&W Air-Weights S&W would endorse it as well, and in the end if I have a Factory Load ammo problem believe S&W will stand behind their Product if I was using the correct ammo that was intended for it. ;) Regards, Hammerdown.


http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/d...&Weight=158&type=Handgun&Order=Powder&Source=



http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/d...&Weight=158&type=Handgun&Order=Powder&Source=
 
That's what I want to know. Are the RSR guns built on a J-Magnum frame?
They are not built on the J-mag frame and my example isn't stamped "+P", but I got an email from S&W saying the gun is fine for +P use. I have fired roughly 30 +P factory rounds in my search for a good carry round, but I practice with standard pressure ammo just to be safe.

Chris
 
They are not built on the J-mag frame and my example isn't stamped "+P", but I got an email from S&W saying the gun is fine for +P use. I have fired roughly 30 +P factory rounds in my search for a good carry round, but I practice with standard pressure ammo just to be safe.Chris
.

Hey Chris
I understand that S&W responded with an E-mail answer that Your Model 37 IS safe to fire Plus-P. loads,Even Though The Barrel is NOT Branded by them, but I would feel Better if they also sent a Letter with the same response. At the very least I sure would SAVE that E-mail just in case, you should encounter a problem down the road. I also have HEARD the Early Plus-P. Ammo was a lot Hotter than the currently offered Factory loads, so this may hold true to S&W's claim about your revolver, but I sure would Shy away from using any Vintage Plus-P. ammo found at many Gun shows to be safe. my 37 MAY be all right as well, to fire plus-P. ammo since it is a Newer model made in the Early 80's but since it does NOT have the barrel branded that Plus-P. ammo would be safe I will not shoot any in it, as this would be an excellent way for S&W to NOT Stand behind it. These Vintage Air-Weights are too hard to Locate in tight clean condition, should Something Bad happen and I would be OUT the Cash it took to buy it, Not Have a 37 to Shoot any more to Only ADD a couple of Hundred feet Per. Second, Using the Plus-P. ammo would Not be worth the Gamble to me. :banghead: Just a friendly suggestion as well.;) Hammerdown
 
I don't know much about vintage ammo because I pretty much shoot only my own handloads or new production ammo. Given the advances in bullet design, I see no value in a "vintage" defense load compared to what's available today.

I don't think the barrel stamping is all that important because the stress of +P isn't in the barrel or even the cylinder, it's a frame issue. Extended use of +P in a non +P gun will wear the gun faster, stretching the frame and causing accelerated wear on the small parts, but it won't bulge the cylinder or split the barrel.

I carry Speer's 135gr Short Barrel load and practice with a handload consisting of a 125gr jacketed bullet and medium charge of Bullseye. I shot enough of the Speer load to confirm POI and accuracy. My handload is nearly an exact match for both metrics as well, while being easier on the gun.

Frankly, I'd like to see more standard pressure self defense loads, but they are hard to find or not very good. Often, the ones that are good get "upgraded" to +P. CorBon had a good standard pressure 38special load that got "upgraded" to +P. What a shame, it performed as well in gel tests as +P loads did. Penetration AND expansion were good.

Chris
 
I don't know much about vintage ammo because I pretty much shoot only my own handloads or new production ammo. Given the advances in bullet design, I see no value in a "vintage" defense load compared to what's available today.
Hey Chris
I didn't Know you were a Hand Loader like myself. There Isnt Much Value at all in Vintage ammo, but the problem here is several gun shows HAVE vendors that sell Older Vintage ammo, and SOME sell it at a cheap price and this will promote a thrifty shooter to buy what will work and is cheaper to shoot. Sadly enough SOME of this vintage ammo, MAY be Hotter than what is loaded or recomended today, and Proof of this can be seen often in OLDER Vintage reloading manuels, That many start OUT a lot Higher in the Powder standards dispensed than Todays standards. let's face it, Today, Liability is KEY so no Reloading Manuel is going to approach any dangerous load info. due to the older guns intended for it's use in Todays world. A common example of this is the Age old 32-20 Cartridge. In Older reloading Manuels they Seldom placed any cautions between Rifle load's compared to Hand Gun Loads. It is a Known Fact that Both S&W and Colt Sold Many Early revolver's WITHOUT a Heat treated cylinder, and Placing a hotter Rifle load in one of these revolver's can and Has Burst the cylinder, Backstrap and such destroying a revolver and Possibly Hurting the shooter at the same time.



I don't think the barrel stamping is all that important because the stress of +P isn't in the barrel or even the cylinder, it's a frame issue. Extended use of +P in a non +P gun will wear the gun faster, stretching the frame and causing accelerated wear on the small parts, but it won't bulge the cylinder or split the barrel.


I don't Fully agree with this and I feel it is REAL Important to have Plus-P. stamped in revolver barrels that are safe with it. I agree with you on the Frame and small parts stress, but also tend to believe the "Cylinder" is Under the Same level of Stress, and have SEEN Air-Weights exploded with the Cylinder Blow wide open, and top strap either Blown free from the gun or Heavily distorted. This is ALL signs of HIGH PRESSURE to me. We as Handloaders should start at The Bottom of a starting load and increase ever so slowly to keep tract of Pressure signs like sticking cases, Flattened Primers, Flowing Primer's, Case Mouth Case split's and such. These are true pressure signs, and I do agree that standard velocity ammo, is a wiser choice on a steady hand gun diet. One thing over looked a lot is Many guy's that buy revolver's for self protection, may Know Little about a gun or ammo as well. I am NOT saying this is a BAD thing, but it sure can lead up to disaster in a heart beat if the wrong pressure ammo is used in a gun not intended for it. ;) Regards, Hammerdown
 
A local shop had one @ 6 months ago and I skipped on it at the time since I had a 642. They haven't had one since...said it was an ordering fluke. The only other place I can find one is at the "traveling craps shoot" (aka: gunshow)...a particular dealer uses a 3 letter pricing code on their gun tags and I have already seen them on 2 different visits at different times last year and they had a Springer 1911 that I was curious on...each time I asked about it they had a different price:fire:

...a $75 up charge on the 2nd go around :cuss:

as much as I would like one of the new 37's with bobbed hammers, I'm not playing with someone who changes prices like that on a gun that is in stock. I settled on a nice model 60-7 instead :D
 
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