Rate the AR-15 triggers

Status
Not open for further replies.

AZRickD

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2003
Messages
1,684
How do the triggers from all the AR 15 manufacturers rate? Are they all the same (milspec) or does one shine (or maybe glow dimly) above the rest?

As for the aftermarket AR triggers, I have heard of a few. Which are the better models?

JP, etc. While they might be fine triggers, are they robust enough for long-term wear and tear in a personal defense rifle, or a three-gun IDPA type rifle?

Thanks,

Rick
 
I'm real partial to my JP trigger.

But it's a single-stage trigger, and as such, may not be legal in different competition disciplines. For example, it's not legal for use in NRA High Power. Still a great trigger for making small groups, and popping off varmints. I have no intentions of changing mine out for something different. ;)
 
I like the JP trigger lots. I've got it in my two JP-built rifles, and several others.

I've never heard of a problem with the JP trigger when it was installed by JP themselves. They red locktite the set screws and they aren't going anywhere.

I've got thousands of rounds through mine with no problems. It's the ne ultra plus for action-rifle competition, as far as I'm concerned.

If you are doing strictly target shooting, not action shooting, I might recommend a tuned two-stage trigger. I hate them for action shooting, but a well tuned two-stage might be a little crisper than the JP trigger. Mine hve an almost imperceptible amount of "roll"

-z
 
I'm leaning on the JP for my action/tactical needs. I was concerned that it might be one to wear out...but since you've had a few cases through it...

Okey-doke, then. Who is the best source for the JP
http://www.jprifles.com/

These folks have it for $140 (which is full retail)
http://www.vikingtactics.com/ForSale/JP/JP.htm

They also have the "Speed Hammer" for $50.

And to confuse matters, JP offers the following spring weights...
We offer three different spring set ups. When ordering direct, you may specify any of the following. JPFC kits purchased from other sources will have the 3LB springs only.

1. 3lb competition/recreational use, color coded yellow and included with all kits.
2. 4lb tactical, also recommended for any AR10 installation.
3. 4.5lb CMP service rifle spring set.

JP Tactical Spring kit: Yields 4LB release with JP trigger components and no ignition reliability compromise. Recommended for Military or Police duty rifles or your home defense rifle. Also required for any AR10 installation. N/C with purchase of kit or installation from JP.

JP CMP service rifle spring kit: Yields a 4.5LB release with JP trigger components for CMP legal set up. N/C with purchase of kit or installation from JP.

I have a 3.5 connector (eight-pound return spring) on my Glock 21... So 4 pounds would just fine for me.

Rick
 
I have the full JP fire control package in all mine. In fact, I had them install it. They'll do everything including anti-walk pins for $220 shipped.

Here's what I recommend. Use the speed hammer. Choose the 3# or 4# spring set depending on what you want. I like the 3# for 3Gun, but it's a little light for training or "duty."

-z

edit: the speed hammer has a dramatic effect on lock time. I haven't had any problems with ignition.
 
Since you're leaning towards the JP trigger...

Wouldn't hurt to spend a little extra on the JP tensioning pin, which replaces the rear takedown pin and locks the upper and lower receivers solidly together. I've put them in all my AR's, and given away the AccuWedges they replaced. ;)
 
I have a RRA NM trigger and love it. Can't compare it to the others out there, but it is so much better then the milspec POS it's unbelievable.
 
Gewehr,

That "Tensioning Pin"

jptp.jpg


It replaces the rear push pin. Does that mean that I won't be able to quickly separate the upper and lower receiver (for cleaning) ? Does one need an allen wrench or something to remove the new pin?

Rick
 
That's it. You need a allen wrench to field strip the rifle.

Not worth it IMO.

I've tightened uppers and lowers by using a little epoxy above the front pivot pin.

-z
 
Yes, it definitely slows down the disassembly process.

But I noticed a big difference in my pre-ban Colt rifles after installing it. One had a gap that you could see a lot of daylight through, and was all sorts of loose in upper-lower fit. I have a hard time believing that such a loose gun would shoot well, even though the trigger group is enclosed entirely in the lower. It may have been a confidence-builder only, but the JP tensioning pin definitely helped in my 100 to 300-yard group sizes. I carry the allen wrench the buttstock cleaning kit compartment, along with an actual cleaning kit. ;)
 
I only have one lower that's "loose" and I just deal with it. The rest of them are very tight, being built on recent RRA lowers.

My CTR-02 is still very tight with the push pins. I do have the tension pin in the AR10 'cause it just feels wrong to have play in a battle rifle. :D

-z
 
For a gaming rifle the JP would be just fine. For social purposes I wouldn't trust it. I've seen too many of them go out of adustment on the line to ever put one on a defensive rifle.

The Rock River National Match trigger is the only way to go. It is non adjustable and very crisp. It's tighter than milspec and set at 4.75 lbs (it should break in to about 4.5 lbs) Give the guys at Rock River a call and talk to them about their trigger. They are very helpful.
 
I purchased the RRA two stage from Steve at ADCO (great place to look for gear, flat $4 shipping charge). I think this is a very good bench trigger but is too light for a defensive rifle. I can barely distinguish the two stages on mine.

Shabo
 
I have a Rock River 2 stage in my Bushy/Armalite build. So far I've been extremely happy with it. It makes a great long range rifle trigger.

I'd definitely change the trigger type for a CQB type rifle.

Good Shooting
Red
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top