GW Staar
Member
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2009
- Messages
- 3,736
I took the tool completely apart to show you "everything" It doesn't come to you that way. You only have to remove the nylon lock nut over the cam, add the cam handle, screw in the pivot handle (lever). Then you only have to pick a primer size and screw in that size case rod, lift the Swager Head Pin and push that size swager head in.
The base looks more massive than it is.....an aluminum casting....mostly hollow. Seems plenty sturdy though.
The cam plate goes on first, and needs to be lubed....I used some marine grease I had around.
Next step is to place the connecting rod and cam and I found it easiest to slide the cam handle on from the end; Then the cam bolt is brought up from the bottom and the Nyloc Nut screwed on.
You have to make sure the Nyloc is not too loose nor too tight....iow the least amount of play, that allows smooth & full motion from side to side. Finally the hex head bolt is screwed in tight.
Then you pick your primer pocket size, and push in the appropriate Swager head.
The swager head is connected to the cam with the Swager Head Pin....it just drops in.
The Case Base Plate is then dropped in. (make sure the cam is at its most rearward position or it won't go.)
The other end of the tool is next: Shown is the Pivot (with it's position locking dowel pin), and the adjustment disc. Notice that the adjustment disc has a wide divot on one side and has three slots cut, made to seat the pivot's dowel pin in three positions (vertical, 45 degrees, and horizontal).
The divot is wide because this provides the up/down adjustment (that caused RCBS's Ken Sakamoto's problem in his video). The hex head bolt goes through this divot and allow adjustment limited by the width of the divot.
The tool uses a Bow washer held just tight enough with another Nyloc Nut, to make the three pivot positions simple-easy to move through, yet those positons are definite and stable holds. Deceptively simple and effective. Notice the Hex head bolt on the other side of the tool...holding in the adjustment disc. Its just a tad loose at this point...I'll tighten it when the first case is swaged.
The last part is the Case Rod....this is the small on that fits the .223 that I used in the video. It has an "O" ring in the center of the thread that hold it in the position you set (depending on case web thickness. It has a hex head and is adjusted in and out with a hex wrench in place. I found is easy to just leave the wrench in place while I adjusted it in for the right amount of swaging.
The base looks more massive than it is.....an aluminum casting....mostly hollow. Seems plenty sturdy though.
The cam plate goes on first, and needs to be lubed....I used some marine grease I had around.
Next step is to place the connecting rod and cam and I found it easiest to slide the cam handle on from the end; Then the cam bolt is brought up from the bottom and the Nyloc Nut screwed on.
You have to make sure the Nyloc is not too loose nor too tight....iow the least amount of play, that allows smooth & full motion from side to side. Finally the hex head bolt is screwed in tight.
Then you pick your primer pocket size, and push in the appropriate Swager head.
The swager head is connected to the cam with the Swager Head Pin....it just drops in.
The Case Base Plate is then dropped in. (make sure the cam is at its most rearward position or it won't go.)
The other end of the tool is next: Shown is the Pivot (with it's position locking dowel pin), and the adjustment disc. Notice that the adjustment disc has a wide divot on one side and has three slots cut, made to seat the pivot's dowel pin in three positions (vertical, 45 degrees, and horizontal).
The divot is wide because this provides the up/down adjustment (that caused RCBS's Ken Sakamoto's problem in his video). The hex head bolt goes through this divot and allow adjustment limited by the width of the divot.
The tool uses a Bow washer held just tight enough with another Nyloc Nut, to make the three pivot positions simple-easy to move through, yet those positons are definite and stable holds. Deceptively simple and effective. Notice the Hex head bolt on the other side of the tool...holding in the adjustment disc. Its just a tad loose at this point...I'll tighten it when the first case is swaged.
The last part is the Case Rod....this is the small on that fits the .223 that I used in the video. It has an "O" ring in the center of the thread that hold it in the position you set (depending on case web thickness. It has a hex head and is adjusted in and out with a hex wrench in place. I found is easy to just leave the wrench in place while I adjusted it in for the right amount of swaging.
Last edited: