RCBS Pro 2000 Users Only...Simple Improvements

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GW Staar

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I posted a useful mod (at AR15.com) to control the press's primer feed a year ago. It works fine, but I found a faster, easier to build, and better way. (Mod 1 in the Link at the bottom of this post.)

Besides that, (See Mod 2) I found a simple way to stop the primer rod action that raises a primer in a strip, unintentionally, just enough to jam it. Which can happen when you forget to remove a strip, or don't wish to, during press operations on pre-primed cases.

A fact of life when using strips, is that the bottom of each primer in each strip does have to be flush with the strip surface before you insert the strip, or it can hang up in the feed mechanism. (The fix, when it does happen, is simply to push the errant primer back down...I use a hex wrench sized to just fit through the primer hole in the shell plate.)

As normal operating procedure, most of us Pro 2000 users place a bunch of strips on the bench surface and rub or roll something over them for insurance against a high primer, BEFORE the strips are inserted into the press. (I use a 5" wide laminate roller I bought at Lowes). If you make sure the primers in each strip are flat, then the only other time strip hang-ups can happen, is when you leave a strip full of primers in the press during press operations on pre-primed brass. (most often a onezy, stopped mid-cycle due to a powder drop problem, or maybe a few you had to pull bullets from and recycle.)

Anyway a Pro 200 uses a 3 stroke operation: 1. Down stroke indexes the primer strip and raises the shell plate, inserting cases into the dies. 2. Up stroke lowers the shell holder, and at the bottom indexes the shellplate. 3. Forward stroke, primes a case, by lowering the shell plate beyond indexing it, lowering it over the primer rod, raising it and the primer into the case.

The object of Mod 2 is to lock out that 3rd stroke. Stopping the shell plate from lowering below the point shell plate indexing occurs.

Here's the link to the mods. If you can use them, great.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=322049&page=1
 
BTW, I have a small electronics designer/builder custom manufacturing a LED displayed black box that will mount to the front of my Pro 2000 and count primers. It will start from count 15 and count down to zero with each stoke of the shell holder. Then once reaching zero, it will buzz, and then automatically reset to 25. From then on...it will count to zero from 25 and then buzz and auto-reset. At each buzzer you add another strip....no more forgotten strips.:) As a BONUS it will also keep a running count of used primers also resetable.

Reloaders using tube loaders have had primer sensors for years, but us reloaders using strip loaders have nada. Tentatively this will cost in the neighborhood of $30.

Hmmm, I wonder if any tube loaders would be interested in such a thing....counter could count down from say 99, just as easy, and warn when its empty....plus keep a running total, something plunger types don't do....if a running count is important to anyone that it.:)

Anyway, if any RCBS guys are interested, I will review it once I get and try it. This is a prototype. I have no personal business interest...just want one for myself. The rest of you can take it or leave it. :D......or the guy said he'd build as many as people want. I will withhold a personal recommendation of it until I have it in my own two hands and test it.

I know this guy (half a country a way) by an email inquiry a week ago. So all the risk is mine. He's building it according to my ideas and his expertise. keep ya posted.
 
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Reloaders using tube loaders have had primer sensors for years, but us reloaders using strip loaders have nada.
When three primers are fully visible on the intake side of the strip feeder you have 10 primers remaining. I take note of this when I'm nearing end of production and adjust my brass count accordingly.

It seems a block of wood, filed to the proper height and simply placed underneath the shellplate, would've been easier. But you appear to be a tinkerer and what kind of satisfaction would you get with a wood block, eh?

Cheers!
 
In the first place sanding cannot be undone. In the second place the tool is a lot more handy than a piece of wood. In the third place the piece of wood would have to be moved around each time to fine the right spot, since the cast surface of the base is not flat like a machined surface. In the forth place, you're right, what's the fun of keeping a block of wood around.:)

Same goes for the popcicle stick that some people shape and cram in the primer feed mechanism. The primer stop bolt is way handier. You don't have to stop and look for it...or the shell holder stop, they become part of the tool.

BTW, are you a Canadian living in Florida?? Kind of hot for you isn't it?:D
 
I relocated to FL from the Seattle area "aboot" 3 years ago.

Yeah, it's uncomfortably hot!
 
One of my very good friends is from Canada. New Mexico is hot too, but we're close to the mountains and he spends a lot of time in them. He doesn't have much use for long guns...his biggest event of the year is a hunt in Canada with his Long Bow. He's damn good at it. He has several bear trophies, including one Alaskan brown bear...and no I don't go with him. Only a bow in big bear country?...not me! Cheers!

If you are using a Pro 2000, You ought to try these super simple mods...you'll throw away your block and popcicle stick. Takes me about 30 minutes to build them...not much more time than getting your block right. Both engage in less than a second, and you don't have to look for them first.
 
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