Reboring how far

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T Bran

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If I had a .50 cal CVA Hawken hunter bored out to a smoothe bore how far do you think I could safely take it. .54cal .58cal .60 cal etc. been looking around for an inexpensive smoothe bore and dont see many at all. I do see a very similar rifle to my CVA on Dixies site at a fair price thinkin about buying one. I'll shoot them both and turn the least accurate one into a smoothie unless there is a reason that this is unsafe, please advise.
Thanks
Troy
 
barrel reboring

It determined by how much meat is on the outside of the barrel to the rifling that determines how much it can be opened up. If the barrel is 3/4 inch dia. I dont think you will get much more than say .75 cal smoth bore out of it. Just a guess.
 
lemat, you do understand that 3/4" is .75" is 75 caliber?

How large you bore out a barrel is dependent on the diameter of the barrel. Finding a rebore specialist is the hardest part of the equation, find one and he or she will know how far the barrel can safely be enlarged.
 
If I can get .60 cal out of it that should be getting close to 20gague but I must take it far enough to erase all traces of rifling. As long as it ends up a common RB size 20ga or larger I can hunt with it. I've allways wanted a small gage BP shotgun to hunt doves and quail with but with no choke, range on doves will be rather limited. I should save the subject of choke tubes for a new thread.
 
Some of the CVA breech configurations were next to impossible to remove and reinstall. The breech was installed into the barrel and then the drum was drilled and threaded through the barrel wall into the breech plug.

The main limiting factor with the boring of such guns is not the barrel wall thickness left at the muzzle, but the wall thickness left at the threads at the breech. For instance on a TC Hawken with a 15/16 barrel the breech threads are 5/8 x 18. is 5/8 Exterior diameter of the breech thread, there still must be threads inside the barrel. The drill size for 5/8 tapping is 37/64. or .578125 If you open the bore to 62 caliber, there will be no threads left at the breech to grip the breech plug. If you take it out to 58 caliber (24 ga), you will have threads left but no interior shoulder for the breech plug to seal up against. At 55 cal, (28 ga) there would barely be an interior shoulder for the breech plug to match up against.

So the limiting factor is how far you can take the bore out and still have enough meat to put threads into, and not compromise safety. If you went out to an 11/16 breech plug thread, that leaves only 1/8 inch barrel wall thickness around the breech plug threads. (Not enough to be going off next to my face.)

As for small bore shotgunning, you can jug choke.
 
After buying another barrel and having it bored out and all, you could have bought a shotgun.....It would point and shoot better too!

just an oldman's take on it...
 
I'm confused. Why are we going to ream out the breech plug threads?
My plan for my TC New Englander is to ream it out to 20 gauge, while leaving the breech plug area alone. Maybe even leave the first 1/2" or so past the plug as a loading chamber.
I do realize I'll have to chamfer the bore from the loading chamber to the bore, to prevent a right angle/stress riser.
That's just my idea. Blind reaming the hole won't be a lot of fun, I realize.
I'd love to be able to remove the breech plug and make a fly tool that I could run through the bore.
 
JAYMO that is what I was thinking wasnt gonna remove the breach plug. I was going to chuck it up in the lathe and run a boring bar down it to within 3/8 or so of the breach plug and polish it up leaving a small 50 cal well in the base. Good point about the threaded portion being a bit larger than the actual bore though. Guess 54 cal would be the safest way to go.
45-70 Any info on where to find an inexpensive shotgun or smoothe bore 20ga or smaller would be greatly appreciated im not against the idea of buying one just didnt see anything reasonable thanks.
Troy
 
.54 caliber would give you 28 gauge. That would be a good shotgun bore.
 
Looks like I need to get the order placed with Dixie.
Before I do one more question I have heard some folks refrence BP guns from a company in India any info on this company?
Thanks to all
Troy
 
You won't get a 60 out of it, 54 at the most. A 1" TC Renegade/Hawken barrel will get up to 62.

Google Ed Rayles, Gasaway WV., he can do the job, last I recollect. for about $135.
 
T Bran said:
Looks like I need to get the order placed with Dixie.
Before I do one more question I have heard some folks refrence BP guns from a company in India any info on this company?
Thanks to all
Troy

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I've looked pretty seriously at new barrels for awhile, both rifled and smoothbore, and just recently bought a new 1"x32" 58 caliber drop-in from GM for my TC Hawken and Renegade. I bought new only because of the length. If I could have found a salvageable 32" 50 or 54 caliber cheaply(I bought one for $50 before), I could have had it bored and jug-choked into a smoothie or rifled for considerably less than that $210 ticket(plus shipping) and still come out with a new barrel....

If you buy a barrel blank for $125-$150 you've got still more expense to come in having it breached and tang fitted, dovetails, underlugs, sights, etc., and the bore is no more new inside than a rebore using existing hardware.
 
I had an Idea last night, I figured you could get some coarse sandpaper, wrap it around a steel or aluminum rod and secure it with some tape so it's tight in the bore, then put it in a drill, slowly run it down the barrel, switch it when it gets dull and clogged, and basically sand the rifling out. Then maybe get some fine sandpaper, polish the bore so it's nice and shiny. Basically sand away the lands all the way to the grooves so you basically have a smoothbore. It shouldn't be significantly weaker than it was before given it only lost the lands.

I have been considering reaming the rifling out of my gun, it seems to throw fliers and I could probably get better accuracy with a smoothbore. Not to mention I could also shoot buckshot, birdshot, buck and ball, and round balls with decent results. I could probably even make sort of a foster slug or a Brenekke slug using a Minne ball and a wad to seal the gasses behind it if I wanted to shoot conicals. I figure since I'm buying the exact same rifle as a kit in percussion that could be my gun for Minnie balls, and the original rifle could be my smooth rifle to shoot shot and ball with. It's starting to really appeal to me, I shot a paper target and realized that my fliers were actually too frequent for my tastes. I think making it into a smooth rifle would actually be pretty cool, I'm going to sleep on this and consider the trade-offs.

~Levi
 
BUISYHANDS
Now we are on the same quest the rifling is feeling a bit funkey when I clean my 50 but I like it. I dont have the heart to scrap it but I only paid 109.00 for it years ago and I'd hate to spend more on a barrel than I can purchase a new rifle for at Dixie, Boring it out seemed the only solution to my problem but I'm still debating it in the mirror [ dont know who is winning yet ].
I like the sand paper idea but fear that an inconsistant bore diameter is very likely but please keep the good ideas coming.
Troy
 
what if after reaming out the rifling like that you took the same sandpaper rod and went back and forth like the piston of an engine. I would be sure to check it every once and a while to make sure it looks good. I think as long as you remove it completely you will have a good smoothbore barrel. I'd say that would be the best way I can think of to make sure it stays consistent without fancy expensive tools.
 
You know, I like the idea of a gun I could hunt deer, elk, squirrel, rabbit, quail, pheasant, coon, and duck with. I could probably do that with a smooth-rifle. I've got the capability of shooting shot, but you've got rifle sights and I can shoot patched balls as well. You could probably load two to deliver more energy to what you are hunting.
 
If I could get a GM drop in barrel for my TCs, I would. Problem is I'm left handed, and so are my TCs.
Nothing wrong with reaming out a rifled .50 to a .50 smoothie. You'd just need a 1/2" ID hollow punch to make your own wads.
 
Busyhands94 said:
I have been considering reaming the rifling out of my gun, it seems to throw fliers and I could probably get better accuracy with a smoothbore.

Considering that it's a relatively new Frontier rifle, the chances are that there are other reasons for the fliers other than it being due to the barrel being rifled.
And if you think that you have fliers now, just wait until you make your own smoothbore. IMHO any improvement in accuracy is unlikely. ;)
 
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One of the main reasons I am considering this besides the fliers is because I purchased a rifle kit from Dixie, they are practically giving them away. I figure that I could build the rifled percussion gun, then use that for shooting conical bullets and then use my other one as a shotgun/roundball shooter.
 
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