Recommend a cheap aluminum 80% AR lower and jig

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Scout21

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I'm thinking about getting in on the 80 percent AR-15 thing before they go bye-bye forever. I'm not interested in an AR-10 platform, just AR-15. Would like a jig, as well.

It looks like aluminum lowers are about $80, plus shipping and the jigs are about $100, plus shipping. Are these the going rates or can I find them cheaper? Brand doesn't matter as long as they aren't junk. Also, while not a huge deal, I'd prefer a finished receiver, not a raw aluminum one.
 
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I'm thinking about getting in on the 80 percent AR-15 thing before they go bye-bye forever. I'm not interested in an AR-10 platform, just AR-15. Would like a jig, as well.

It looks like aluminum lowers are about $80, plus shipping and the jigs are about $100, plus shipping. Are these the going rates or can I find them cheaper? Brand doesn't matter as long as they aren't junk.
Delta Team Tactical has lowers for 50ish and the jigs arent much more. I recommend the Anderson all metal jig. The plastic jigs suck.

Number one thing i can tell you is to drill the trigger pin and safety holes from both sides. Trigger pin holes only need drilled 1/4" deep. Safety needs drilled half way through from both sides. This will prevent the drill bits from wandering off course and being out of spec. I learned this the hard way and now have a nice lower shaped block for clamping in my vise...
 
Delta Team Tactical has lowers for 50ish and the jigs arent much more. I recommend the Anderson all metal jig. The plastic jigs suck.

Number one thing i can tell you is to drill the trigger pin and safety holes from both sides. Trigger pin holes only need drilled 1/4" deep. Safety needs drilled half way through from both sides. This will prevent the drill bits from wandering off course and being out of spec. I learned this the hard way and now have a nice lower shaped block for clamping in my vise...
I'll check them out, thanks! And thanks for the drilling advice, too.

It doesn't appear as though they currently offer finished lowers, only raw. I was hoping for a finished lower. I see that I neglected to put that in the original post, so I added it.
 
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Ive bought both raw and finished lowers. Not a big deal to me since i own a spray booth and airbrush.

Beings the ATF is making them illegal shortly, i would get whichever i could. Likely not to be any new stock coming in.

Or just embrace the raw lower... Would look good with a stainless barrel imho

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Curious about the benefit of building one. If I need a firearm I want a reliable one. If the government is trying to take them away having a serial number won't matter if we resist.
 
Like above... I've got an interesting looking paper weight from my first attempt... I then purchased a couple of "cheap" plastic lowers (two years ago they were only $12 each) to practice on... Which actually helped more because there is no "wiggle" room when you're machining plastic... The bit WILL move quickly... There's a company that sells plastic lowers for $25 and the metal jig for $50... I think it's EPA or EP armory... Again only for practice... However I did end up with two polymer lowers that look and function perfectly... Plus I got the experience... That allowed me to finish my second metal lower perfectly...
 
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Ive bought both raw and finished lowers. Not a big deal to me since i own a spray booth and airbrush.

Beings the ATF is making them illegal shortly, i would get whichever i could. Likely not to be any new stock coming in.

Or just embrace the raw lower... Would look good with a stainless barrel imho

index.php
I like your choice... I've got a raw upper and lower that I'm polishing up for a pistol with brace (w/ stainless barrel)... For my wife... She wants the furniture "teal"... I wanted wood... Go figure....
 
Curious about the benefit of building one. If I need a firearm I want a reliable one. If the government is trying to take them away having a serial number won't matter if we resist.
There is no benefit other than the experience gained in machining. Well and the sense of accomplishment! The money spent to buy the lower and jig, plus the time and money spent machining actually cost more than a serialized lower.

They are "easier" to buy, not having to fill out paperwork. Unless completed by a competent machinist, the end result will not be as pretty as a standard serialized lower made by a reputable company.

As i understand the new ruling, 80% lowers are not going to be outlawed for sale. They will just now have serial numbers on them and the buyer will have to fill out and pass the Form 4473. Rules have also been set up to allow FFL holders to purchase non-serialized firearms, mark them with a serial number, and resell them.
 
Is there a legal reason why some lowers lack the markings, or is it simply manufacturer preference?

Purely cost.

Are we allowed to post sites we use for parts... They have some good sales occasionally... And my wife says I can relate to the company name...lol... They have lowers for $50 and jigs for $50 https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/80-AR-15-Lower-Receivers-s/186228.htm

JoeBob is a good guy with good prices and inventory. He used to frequent the bronco forum i have been on since 2006. He got out of broncos and into things that go bang. He is only 3 hours from me but whenever im going by Hays, its in the middle of a 10+ hour drive to Colorado so i dont feel like stopping. Maybe i should get those parts for a 10mm AR ordered from him finally...
 
JoeBob is a good guy with good prices and inventory.
I'd certainly say so, $55 bucks for a finished Anderson lower is much better than I was seeing everywhere else. I'll most likely be buying from him.

I'm looking at the New Frontier Armory jig. It says that it's only compatible with New Frontier Armory lowers. Is this accurate, or is it just to get you to purchase a New Frontier Armory receiver? I assumed that they were all cross-compatible between brands because mil-spec and all. If I purchase an Anderson lower will I need an Anderson jig?
 
If the receiver is "milspec" than a standard milspec jig is the ticket... Some new frontier rec are a little different for sure... Not good or bad... Just different... and need a non milspec type jig... The exterior can hamper a milspec type jig... So generally speaking I'd steer away from proprietary jigs or lowers... And stick with milspec as advertised. For me anyway... KISS it. Anderson forged are milspec... So a milspec jig is all you'll need (anyones milspec)... Good luck.
 
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Wow... Prices have gone up...lol... Keep your eye open for deals like this though... May be more than $40 but I'm sure they'll be some sales sooner rather than later... People don't wanna be stuck with inventory.
 

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I'd certainly say so, $55 bucks for a finished Anderson lower is much better than I was seeing everywhere else. I'll most likely be buying from him.

I'm looking at the New Frontier Armory jig. It says that it's only compatible with New Frontier Armory lowers. Is this accurate, or is it just to get you to purchase a New Frontier Armory receiver? I assumed that they were all cross-compatible between brands because mil-spec and all. If I purchase an Anderson lower will I need an Anderson jig?

I just ordered a NF armory 45 lower for a 10mm build. It says any jig that mounts to the rear of the mag well will work. The anderson jig mounts/locates through the takedown pin holes. Should work fine.

JoeBob orders over $150 qualify for a free JBO t-shirt too
 
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