Reconditioning "range brass"

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Topgunner

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I was wondering what sorts of tools that people use to get scuffed, scratched range brass in good condition for reloading. I'm especially concerned about case necks, and rims that may have been stepped on and skidded across concrete.

What criteria determine whether cases are suitable for reloading vs getting tossed in the trash?
 
Topgunner,

I'd sort the stuff into at least three groups:

Cherry nice brass that is as close to perfect as possible.

Scruffy semi-nasty but shootable.

Scrap - save up for sale as scrap!

The first and last catagories I am sure you can figure what to do with. The scruffy brass you save for blasting/plinking service. Some times you just want a no pressure, no worries shooting trip. If you don't care if you find the brass in the weeds, no problem! Also sometimes an additional firing will iron out the dings and dents and the brass looks a lot better. Some of my 30-30 brass was range brass that has gotten much better for being reloaded and shot.
 
I reject a case for: A split body, split neck, any vertical mark on the neck or body that might be a split in the making, any dent if pistol brass, a large dent if rifle brass, a messed up rim if pistol brass, a messed up rim that a file can't fix if rifle brass, incipient head separation, a squished case mouth on pistol brass, a most horribly squished case mouth on rifle brass, and any scratches or scrapes that are not shallow.

Out-of-round case necks are fine... sizing heals all wounds. Even a badly squished case neck on a rifle round can be carefully opened and then sized into shape with no harm done, so long as the brass isn't actually scored or split.

I don't worry about the rims, as they're easily discovered during normal processing, nor do I think they're a safety issue so long as the base and body of the case are in good shape. Messed up pistol rims are invariably discovered when the round won't go all the way into the max cartridge gauge I use before I box the round. For rifle brass, if I didn't notice a bad rim during lubing, I'll notice when it won't go smoothly into the shell holder during trimming.

Oh, tools? A tumbler full of walnut and maybe some Nu-Finish car polish.
 
Terrible looking brass

Topgunner--WayneConrad's about got it covered. I reload for my SKS, a firearm notoriously hard on brass. So I never have "cherry" once-fired brass to deal with.

Agreed, sizing heals all(most all) wounds. I don't worry abt a dent in the case body; it gets power-sized out when firing. The SKS really isn't fussy abt case rims, which is lucky, as it tries to tear off the rim before denting the case and flinging it into the middle of next week after each shot.

On a good day my brass recovery rate will get up toward 90-95%

A tumbler is a great weapon for making ucky dirty brass look nice. To WC's list I would add a pair of long-nose pliers, which are handy for unbending the worst of the dings in the case mouth, so the expander ball can get in. Jewelers' pliers are even better--they have conical jaws, not square, and so leave fewer tooth-marks in the case mouth.

Now, with my beautiful bolt guns, ALL the brass is "cherry"...
 
I think Wayne's about got it down. I would add that when I go to the range, I often pick up other folk's brass they've lazily left lying around at the free public range. When I get home, I go through and sort it using the same criteria as Wayne, except I also look for berdan primed cartridges and put them in the "scrap brass to be sold pile."

I then run the brass through the tumbler and like Wayne, use Nu-Finish Car polish to clean and give the brass some slickness. Eases pistol brass through the sizing process and minimizes the amount of lube you need on rifle brass along with cleaning the brass nicely.

After cleaning, I inspect any "suspicious" brass I don't recognize the headstamp for by shining a light inside the brass and looking for the double hole berdan primers. Those are not good for your decapping pins.

Regards,

Dave
 
You may want to try this if you have some brass with nicked, rough rims. I just reloaded some .45ACP that, IIRC, came from some guys shooting full auto at the range I use. The rims were really dinged up with burrs. I was sitting there trying to come up with an easy way to smooth them out when I saw a cutoff saw blade on my tool wall. It is about 12" in diameter. I put it flat in my lap and used my left thumb, index and middle finger to form a cup at the edge of the blade (where you would put the needle to start an old LP record).

I inserted a case into this little "cave" and applied light pressure. One rotation on the flat surface of the blade smoothed the rim nicely.
 
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