Refurbishing a Smith 64-5.

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Jack19

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Several months ago I picked up a well used Smith 64-5 in .38Special.

The entire top of the barrel and the top of the frame are worn, so there is no stainless finish left...only a smooth grey metal.

Ideally, I'd like to replace the barrel, as the lands and grooves have seen better days, and have it refinished. BUT, I'm wondering whether this is cost effective.

Is it worth the cost?

My intent was to use it as a car gun. Something I don't have to worry about during hot southern summers, or 20 degree winters. I don't want to put a lot of money into it, but as I might rely on it to save my life some time...

Would it be possible to replace the barrel and have it parked for not a whole lot of cash?

Any other options you can see?
 
I would lap the bore and and either buff it out or have it bead blasted. It's hard to kill a good S&W. Another option is to replace the barrel, they are often found on ebay and midway always has stuff like that.
 
Is accuracy acceptable? If so, and if the revolver is mechanically sound, it seems, to me, like the perfect truck/car gun as is. I don't know of any way to parkerize stainless, you may be able to get an epoxy or paint type finish on it but why bother, it fine as is.
 
If it is stainless steel it does not have to be refinished, just buy some Flitz and have at it. If you want a dull even finish, have it bead blasted for 20 bucks or so. If will be dull but very durable, perfect for a Truck Gun. Bill
 
What am I missing, here? The top of most M64s have a matte bead-blast texture which is.... yep, smooth gray metal.

But yeah, getting a blast job on a beat-up stainless gun will improve its looks 100%.

I had my 3-inch M66 blasted. It didn't need it, and the die-hard collectors are probably having a coronary right about now, but I prefer it to the standard brushed finish.

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Oh, you can't parkerize stainless, btw.
 
Originally posted by Jack19:
The entire top of the barrel and the top of the frame are worn, so there is no stainless finish left...only a smooth grey metal.
Stainless is not the finish per se, but rather the metal the gun is made of. What has happened here is that - most likely from many holsterings and reholsterings - the metal has worn and become "burnished." To keep the appearance uniform you would have to polish (for a bright finish) or bead-blast (for a more subdued matte finish) all of the exterior surfaces, or apply a coating over the whole gun. But, unless light glares or glints off the frame topstrap (the notch in which is also your rear sight), this has zero, zilch, nada to do with the gun's functioning.

Ideally, I'd like to replace the barrel, as the lands and grooves have seen better days, and have it refinished. BUT, I'm wondering whether this is cost effective.
I find it hard to believe that the rifling is literally "shot out." It would take many, many thousands of jacketed bullets to do that. The .38 Special is not a high velocity rifle cartridge. Are you sure it isn't just leaded or otherwise very dirty?

If the barrel does need replacement, this is a job for either the factory or a well-qualified gunsmith with proper equipment. Possibly, you could contact Smith & Wesson for a quote. If this were mine, I would give the barrel a good cleaning, then fire a few shots into a stiff piece of white paper or cardboard. If the bullet holes are perfectly round and not oval - indicating "keyholing" - the rifling is probably fine.
 
This is where the Scotebrite pads come in handy. Fine grit wet/dry sandpaper can restore it to almost the original brushed finish, too.

Just leave the top of the barrel and frame in the anti-glare sand blasted finish.
 
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