Reinforcing double doors

[Voodoo]

The front door to our house is one of those double entry doors. As with most double entry doors, one door is considered the 'active" door, or one that is regularly used to enter and exit. The other door is considered "inactive", and usually remains closed (unless the need to move large items in and out of the house is required). The "active" door contains the hardware (door knob, deadbolt, etc.) The "inactive" door is secured by (flimsy) slide bolts that extend from the upper and lower part of the door into the frame. I've read that regardless of the type of deadbolt lock I have or may put on the door (in this case, Medeco), these types of doors are the least secure (because of the "inactive" door).

Buying a new single door is out of the question right now, so I'm looking for ways to reinforce the double door. I'd like to do so without making the door look like one of those doors you would see on a NYC apartment (you know...4-5 dealbolts up and down the door, and a 2 x 4 across the threshold) (No offense to those in NYC!)

Any tips?

 

[ilbob]

* take out existing hinge screws and use longer ones so that instead of just screwing into the jamb you are screwing into the 2X4 behind the jam.

* you can get reinforced strike plates

* get a bolt for the inactive door that goes into the floor several inches

* the 2X4 idea works pretty well, but only while you are there. you still need to do the other things.

 

[Tokugawa]

You have four potential weak points.
First, the screws securing the hinges. Use three or four inch screws into the studs, and on the other side deep into the door frame.

Next, reinforce the strike side (where the dead bolt engages the inactive door) with a wrap around reinforcer.Do the same on the deadbolt side.

Also , consider whether the door itself can have a panel or pane broken out- a LOT of raised panel doors can be breached this way-the panel is broken out, the criminal reaches in and unlocks the door from the inside.

Fourth, the inactive door engagement with the floor and upper jamb- A surface mounted bolt can be used top and bottom, and a hole drilled into the floor , next to the door that can receive a pin, to prevent the door from swinging. If you want, a simple welded steel bracket can be fabricated to bolt to a joist under the floor, this is typically a steel pipe to receive the pin, welded to a plate that bolts to a joist. Then a piece of steel rod sized to fit the pipe can be dropped in to secure the door. weld a stop on the pin so it does not drop all the way through. Make two sets like this, use the second one for the active door, this can be used at night to prevent entry. It can be set back a couple inches from the door to allow partial opening if you like, don't put it so far back someone can reach through the opening.
Make sure the dead bolt has a lot of travel, because the two door setup has a lot of flex- a common method of entry is to pry the doors sideways to open up the space between them so far the bolt no longer engages. A plywood spacer in between the studs beside the door will help greatly here, of course this involves some drywall work too, as it has to be cut out to install the plywood web.
In the end, these methods are dependent on a solid door to start with.

 

[1 old 0311]

When you replace the screws coat them HEAVY with Elmers carpenter glue.

 

[jkingrph]

When you replace the screws coat them HEAVY with Elmers carpenter glue.

Why, Elmers does not adhere to metal well and on a properly installed door the hinge leaves close together so it is impossible to remove the screws or for them to work out. Longer stronger screws going through the door facing and into actual framing is a better idea.

 

[ilbob]

The idea of coating the screw with Elmers glue is not to hold the screw in the wood, but to reinforce the wood itself. I have my doubts that it works that way, but it won't hurt anything.

 

[TAB]

I'm a GC, I fix kicked in doors atleast twice a month.( infact did one yesterday)

I can tell you, longer skrew and renforced strike plates, will just mean more work WHEN they kick in the door.( remember you still skrewing into 2 by or 4 by stock, that most likly has 4 nails in them) Do they help? yes, but its not going to stop some one that wants in. Double doors are infact less secure then a single door.

Your best bet is to replace all the skrews and hardware stronger bits( 4" skrews, hardend strike plates, top and bottum bolts...) then supplement that with cross bolts midway between the lock set and both the top and bottum.

That will just "buy you time"


Besides there is always a bunch of windows.

 

[12many]

I agree with TAB. All good ideas, but for my house, there are so many windows, that I am sure or would expect a bad guy will break a window in a less visible place to gain entry. The front door faces the street and can be seen from the street but my back windows or sliding glass door is less visible.

But, one has to start someplace. Front door seems as good as any.

What about a vertical (top to bottom) steel bar in front of or imbedded in the inactive (less active) door?

 

[jkingrph]

I agree with TAB, anything you do will only buy time, and most of the time not much. If you really want security you need good burglar bars on all windows, and probably on all entrance doors. With a heavy, strong , full perimiter steel frame it will buy more time.

If you are in a remote or secluded area they can just pull up , hook a chain to a truck and yank even that out of the wall, then where are you, bigger repair bills.

Locks, ect will keep honest folks honest, a determined crook will get in!!

 

[Voodoo]

Thanks all! I appreciate the advice and insight. Needless to say, I'll be reallocating some of my "gun fund" money into a "new front door" fund.

I, too, am aware of the vulnerability of windows. However, I am approaching this particular discussion from the viewpoint of a home invasion. I was watching a TV program that showed a home invasion attempt caught on a hidden CCTV. Brazen thugs were doing repeated jumpkicks at a front door trying to break in. Just when it looked like they were about to break in, they heard sirens and scrammed. It made me think about my front door...and how easy it would be for a determined criminal to just kick it in. If something like that happened, I'd probably go into autopilot, which for me, means protecting the wife and kids first. As a result, I honestly don't think I could get to my gun quick enough.

 

[earplug]

Check out some of the information on how our soldiers break in to Iraq homes.
That is how you need to protect your home.
I'd get a dog to alarm, several firearms to keep close at hand.
If your not at home, be friends with the neighbors and hope they stop anything while your away.

 

[ArfinGreebly]

Vertical Bolt

Have you considered a vertical bolt?

If you look at how many older "crash bar" doors are secured, there's a rod that runs from the middle of the door, up to the top of the jamb, and another that runs from the same latch handle down to the floor of the jamb.

For example: See here.​

These are also sometimes seen with a rotating handle instead of a crash-bar-style latch.

You can install one at the opening side of the door and another on the hinge side. All the usual hardening advice applies to the seating of the rods.

These are usually used to secure exit doors (stores, theaters, etc.) but can be adapted to regular doors.

Sure, it will only slow down someone who's determined, but they'll really have to work for it.

 

[ilbob]

Check out some of the information on how our soldiers break in to Iraq homes.

Got any links to share?

 

[ZeSpectre]

I suppose you could lock your door, then smash into it and see what breaks.
Sounds a bit extreme but it's what one guy did during a dispute over the "extra security measures" a contractor was supposed to have built into his new home.

 

[Tokugawa]

Slowing them down is the whole point. Make it hard, noisy and maybe they will get discouraged and try somewhere else. And by all means do the same things to the INTERIOR doors, there is safety in layers. The bedroom doors should be as hard to get through as the exterior.

 

[ilbob]

Slowing them down is the whole point. Make it hard, noisy and maybe they will get discouraged and try somewhere else. And by all means do the same things to the INTERIOR doors, there is safety in layers. The bedroom doors should be as hard to get through as the exterior.

Most homes these days have outer walls made of 2X6s with foam board or OSB on the outside and drywall on the inside. A battery powered reciprocating saw will cut an entry through any exterior wall, often in a minute or less.

 

[realityscope]

Most homes these days have outer walls made of 2X6s with foam board or OSB on the outside and drywall on the inside. A battery powered reciprocating saw will cut an entry through any exterior wall, often in a minute or less.

And depending on what siding and/or sheathing was used, sometimes you don't even need the sawzall...

 

[LT1coupe]

The dbl doors are only as strong as the two vertical pins on the stationary door. We use a one of those braces that go from the floor to the handle to help slow an intruder. We have the same brace on the single doors ~$15 each at Lowe's. I have jokingly asked if a BG hurts himself on my modified door, am I liable?

 

[ilbob]

Years ago, an acquaintance of mine was thinking of building a new house. He wanted to make it harder to defeat its perimeter security.

I don't know what he ended up doing but at one time his plan was to extend the basement concrete wall up about 5 feet above grade. He was looking at using the metal frame doors and windows you see in industrial buildings instead of typical residential style doors and windows.