Reloading .303

[EastBound&Down]

Hey, I got a used .303 lee a while back. Haven't shot it, I am still working on it. Don't have much money or much gun know-how. I've shot 12ga and .22 and that is it.
I was thinking about the lee loader for basic reloading for plinking and hunting, not sniper level accuracy. Here are the issues:
Any safety issues about reloading?
Do you need anything else besides lee loader kit? (aside from the bullet parts, of course)
Heard privi is good brass, does it work?
Should I just not waste time and fork money for pre-made ammo?
Any important things to know that the lee loader instructions won't say?

 

[Big7]

Lee Classic will probably load up some of the most accurate
boolits you will EVER see. Everything you need to get going is on "the card".
Then, learn from there.

That is all you need unless you are cranking out more than a few boxes at a time.

Been using them for years and still what I use in available calibers for comp.
Plus I have modified a "few" for other calibers.

 

[EastBound&Down]

Lee Classic will probably load up some of the most accurate
boolits you will EVER see. Everything you need to get going is on "the card".
Then, learn from there.

That is all you need unless you are cranking out more than a few boxes at a time.

Been using them for years and still what I use in available calibers for comp.
Plus I have modified a "few" for other calibers.

That is great, I am not looking to pump out tons, so it looks like the lee classic is just what I need.
Any safety concerns /common mishaps to avoid?

 

[<*(((><]

Headspace can be spotty on Enfields as bolts were interchanged when imported. It would be prudent to check for excessive headspace. My Jungle Carbine is over by a couple thousandths which isn’t critical but will wear brass prematurely at the base. I will be in the habit of checking for wear with a paper clip on the inside base of the fired cartridges.

When I had my carbine checked the gunsmith fired a proof cartridge and noted the primer backing out of the case by a few thousandths.

I’ve seen Enfield a with excessive headspace have case separation issues after a couple of loadings. My dad had a sporterized enfield and I won’t shoot it as one can see brass stress marks above the rim. He used it for hunting for many years and never had an issue but he didn’t reload for it.

 

[EastBound&Down]

Headspace can be spotty on Enfields as bolts were interchanged when imported. It would be prudent to check for excessive headspace. My Jungle Carbine is over by a couple thousandths which isn’t critical but will wear brass prematurely at the base. I will be in the habit of checking for wear with a paper clip on the inside base of the fired cartridges.

When I had my carbine checked the gunsmith fired a proof cartridge and noted the primer backing out of the case by a few thousandths.

I’ve seen Enfield a with excessive headspace have case separation issues after a couple of loadings. My dad had a sporterized enfield and I won’t shoot it as one can see brass stress marks above the rim. He used it for hunting for many years and never had an issue but he didn’t reload for it.

Mine is sporterized, so you're saying shoot it, then have it looked at.
Ok got it,

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Since the Lee Classic Loader only neck sizes the brass and the 303 British needs the shoulder to be correctly positioned I'm not sure the LCL is the way to go. There are very inexpensive single stage presses available from Lee and dies too. Those would do a much better job IMO for not a lot of money.

Here is a good site on the 303 British: http://www.303british.com/id1.html

Some equipment links:
https://fsreloading.com/lee-precision-reloader-press.html
https://fsreloading.com/lee-precision-pacesetter-3-die-set-303-british.html
https://fsreloading.com/lee-precision-ram-prime-90106.html

I know $77 is at least twice the price of the Lee Classic Loader but it's much more versatile and you will use the brass you have or buy much longer. That alone will save you money plus it will probably produce better 303 ammo.

This tool will make loading easier no matter which method you choose to use.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/171844/hornady-deluxe-4-blade-chamfer-and-deburring-tool

This one will do the same job but at a lower cost. The above is a much better choice IMO.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/389104/lee-chamfer-and-deburring-tool

 

[EastBound&Down]

Mine is sporterized, so you're saying shoot it, then have it looked at.
Ok got it,

Headspace can be spotty on Enfields as bolts were interchanged when imported. It would be prudent to check for excessive headspace. My Jungle Carbine is over by a couple thousandths which isn’t critical but will wear brass prematurely at the base. I will be in the habit of checking for wear with a paper clip on the inside base of the fired cartridges.

When I had my carbine checked the gunsmith fired a proof cartridge and noted the primer backing out of the case by a few thousandths.

I’ve seen Enfield a with excessive headspace have case separation issues after a couple of loadings. My dad had a sporterized enfield and I won’t shoot it as one can see brass stress marks above the rim. He used it for hunting for many years and never had an issue but he didn’t reload for it.

Just eyeballing, my bolt seems to get pretty tight, or should I try to measure space with the bolt fully closed?

 

[Duster340]

I use a Lee turret press for my bubba'd Savage 303 No4 Mk1. I neck size only to prevent overworking the fireformed brass. I really like privi brass and have settled on published load data for IMR 4895 push Hornady 150gr SP &174 gr RNSP, most accurate with prvi 150 & 180 SPBT bullets. (Deer DRT rounds) Though some folk have poor results with BT bullets. Love the 303 Brit!

Be well

 

[EastBound&Down]

How many reloads could you get with the LCL alone?
The 77$ dollar stuff probably is better, but I am pretty green. I'll get that in time

 

[ArchAngelCD]

How many reloads could you get with the LCL alone?
The 77$ dollar stuff probably is better, but I am pretty green. I'll get that in time

I highly recommend you read the "sticky" threads at the top of the Reloading Forum marked "The Reloading Library of Wisdom" before you buy anything.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/reloading-library-of-wisdom.649184/
There is truly a wealth of knowledge there and it can help you prevent wasting money. The equipment links I posted were far from the best products, they were inexpensive products meant to allow you to load for the 303 without spending a lot. If you start reloading more often and for more cartridges you will want better or different equipment.

 

[Duster340]

Hey EB&D,

I've only be loading the 303 for a couple years. So far I've reloading my rounds 4-5 times with no evidence of primer pocket wear, neck splitting or case head separation. I believe the common consensus is that the less you work the brass, the longer it will last. Also, the sweet spot for my particular rifle is .05-1.0 grain below max listed load. I'm guessing even lighter loads would extend case life further. Be well.

 

[<*(((><]

Here is a picture showing how in a excessive headspace situation the shoulders get blown forward, stretching the brass. And when you resize the case when reloading you compress it back to spec and subsequently it has to stretch back out in the next firing.



So what I’ve been told in regards to the 303 (I haven’t reloaded for the 303 personally yet, as I’ve been doing research) you can do to get more life out of the brass is to only neck size and only slightly bump the shoulders of the case after firing it in your rifle. This will limit the stretching, compressing, stretching you get in an excessive headspace scenario. One caveat though is those reloads that have only been necksized can only be fired in that particular rifle as they have been fire formed to that chamber and it’s excessive headspace.

All of this is only useful if you have excessive headspace. Just something to be aware of. The thread in bolt faces on the enfield allow one a person to trade them out to a closer headspace as there are resources on the net where you can find different length bolt faces.

 

[EnglishTom]

First slug the bore L/Es run from .309" to .315" average is .312". with the tight bore you can use 30cal with a reduced load ( not max load) If you have a large bore used cast bullets 0.002" over size, with a gas check you can get them up around 2000f/s accuracy is good depending on powder and load.
The brass, Anneal the neck and shoulders every 3 loads, check OAL every load, Neck size only and keep them to the one rifle. PPU brass is good but still weak by design but better than sup/brass.
Your head space is set by the removable bolt head 3 sizes are available you need to check with H/S gauges ,
Be careful what brass you buy as most sup/brass in Berdan primed and corrosive
A very good mould is the Lee 185g in most cases you can load them as cast, just lube and go.
Your sporter may print open groups as the barrel like up pressure, theres a very good vid on you tube about L/E accuracy . Which L/E is it, it makes a difference

 

[Big7]

Here is a picture showing how in a excessive headspace situation the shoulders get blown forward, stretching the brass. And when you resize the case when reloading you compress it back to spec and subsequently it has to stretch back out in the next firing.



So what I’ve been told in regards to the 303 (I haven’t reloaded for the 303 personally yet, as I’ve been doing research) you can do to get more life out of the brass is to only neck size and only slightly bump the shoulders of the case after firing it in your rifle. This will limit the stretching, compressing, stretching you get in an excessive headspace scenario. One caveat though is those reloads that have only been necksized can only be fired in that particular rifle as they have been fire formed to that chamber and it’s excessive headspace.

All of this is only useful if you have excessive headspace. Just something to be aware of. The thread in bolt faces on the enfield allow one a person to trade them out to a closer headspace as there are resources on the net where you can find different length bolt faces.

Correct.

And since the Lee Classic only sizes the neck, the case will be fire formed to the chamber
after the first shot plus, there is no need to full length size cases shot in just one rifle.

That alone will actually make the brass last longer.

Just sayin'

 

[Curator]

The trick to getting .303 british cases to last for 10+ reloads is to correctly fire form them on their FIRST firing. There are two ways to do this shooting factory ammo. You can lightly oil the front half of the cartridge case before firing, or slip a thin "O" ring around the case where the rim is to prevent the firing pin from driving the case forward as it is fired. The .303 british cartridge headspaces on the rim and the rim recess in the military guns like the SMLE are cut deep to allow for dirty ammo. Once cases are fire formed there is no need to "push the shoulder back" unless you are loading near maximum. With middle-of-the-road loads, you won't have the action flex. The fire formed brass will then "headspace" on the shoulder and not suffer head separation. Check out this website: http://www.303british.com/id37.html

 

[Walkalong]

You picked a tough one to start out on.

You have already been given some great advise, so good luck, and welcome to THR.

Be sure to read the info at the links provided.

 

[rdstrain49]

Curator, thanks for that, now I don't have to. Neck size only, it'll work. However that brass will only work in the rifle it was fire formed in.

 

[<*(((><]

@Curator thanks for that piece of advice, I’ll be reading that link.

 

[Curator]

I don't believe you picked a tough one to start with. My first rifle cartridge to reload was the .303 british. In many ways it rewards attention to detail, quickly teaching what is and is not important. Do a search on this and other websites to get as much information as possible before buying equipment. Properly made-up reloads make the SMLE and the No.4Mk1 rifles really strut their stuff!

 

[mjsdwash]

it uses weird size bullets. I think .311-.314, not the widely available .308. You can get whatever you want in those sizes mostly, but you have to look. good luck

 

[ArchAngelCD]

it uses weird size bullets. I think .311-.314, not the widely available .308. You can get whatever you want in those sizes mostly, but you have to look. good luck

You should be using at least a .311" bullet because they are correct for the 303 British, nothing weird about it. A .308" bullet is the incorrect size.

 

[redbullitt]

Lee loader should get the job done, but it is best on straight wall cases in my experience. It is slow, but if you are not shooting a lot then it will work until you need to bump the shoulder back on your brass (when that is will depend on what you are shooting and a myriad of other factors).

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/650614/lee-breech-lock-hand-press-kit
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/764178/lee-pacesetter-3-die-set
The lee handpress is more expensive, but much easier and more versatile. I have loaded 1000s of rounds on mine. You buy the handpress kit and your dies. Thats ABOUT it for load workable ammo if you go the lee dipper route. I have loaded from 380 auto to 45-70 and 300 mag on that little thing. Very cool tool when space is limited. Basically your loading kit will fit in a shoe box. A good little electric scale and some calipers would be nice additions when possible of course.

Privi brass does just fine. I use it in 303 Brit and 762 Russian. No complaints at all. I would not buy factory ammo. You can load your own BETTER quality ammo for much less cost if you are comfortable making them... And they will shoot well. A can of Red Dot and some cast .314 or .315 GC bullets will go a long way for plinking and sub 200 yard target practice. I am sure there are plenty of companies that can help with cast bullets like that.

I mention Cast since your rifle will likely have an oversized bore... A .308 bullet will function, but will most likely shoot poorly, at least thats how my "fat thirty cal" rifles are. You may get lucky though and have a better bore that will do okay with .308 or .312 bullets.

Our .303 takes cast bullets at about .314 diameter. It shoots quite well for what it is, and the cost is minimal. I cast my bullets, so plan on that expense being a bit higher if buying the bullets. Using "the load" we wind up with about .03 for primer, about .05 for 13g Red Dot, about .05 for 150gn round nose gas check bullet, and the price of brass. This all comes to about 13 cents per round minus the brass cost.... I expect over 10 reloads per case generally. A full power load and/or using jacketed bullets will cost marginally more, but still be quite cheap compared to factory bought. Basically, once you go this route there is no reason to buy commercial ammo lol. The cheapest .303 ammo I see on midway is about a dollar per round with shipping... ouch, and I am sure it would not shoot as well as your handloads.

 

[mjsdwash]

You should be using at least a .311" bullet because they are correct for the 303 British, nothing weird about it. A .308" bullet is the incorrect size.

by weird, I mean, if you go to a gunshop and ask for some 30 cal bullets, you probably getting .308 (if location is not listed, I assume US). You can get 311, but you need to find it. Now finding it usually means just looking a few boxes over in bigger shops, but as a new reloader, he may not have been aware of this. I saw a gunshop sell a guy a box of .440 lead balls for his Pietta, because the top said "44 cal". It caused a chainfire, and ruined the gun. The point I make is that you have to go in knowing what your looking for, especially for reloading, especially when using a caliber rarely produced in the US. I shoot a 8Mil, and a friend reloads his Mosins, and everytime, we need bullets, the clerk gives us a strange look, and points to the aisle, and lets us figure it out. Much better than a guy who doesn't know handing you a box and saying "this will work" (another friend was handed a box of 45ACP when he asked for Colt. The clerk assured him there was no difference, they both said "Colt" in the fine print. however this was a department store, not a gunshop.............................. I did not mean to imply .311 is rare, or difficult to find. Its really not, reloading the Enfields is fairly common, and reloading Mosins as the surplus goes out will be more common. If anything, I expect the availability of .311 options to go up because of the 500,000,000,000,000,000 Mosins sold in the last few decades, and ammo betting more expensive.

 

[loose noose]

I've had really good luck in reloading for my British .303 Enfield, made in 1955, in fact I got some .311 bullets from Midway and dies from Hornady, and Remington LR primers. I use my Forester case sizer to trim all the casings to the proper length, which is indicated in the Lyman 49th Edition reloading manual as well as the correct powders. I've produced some pretty accurate loads, just with very little experimenting. Granted I've been reloading for over 50+ years, so over that time I've accumulated a vast supply of reloading paraphernalia. I've found that 180grn. RN bullets perform about the best.

 

[JohnB-40]

My No1 & 5 both shoot really well with Hornady 3130 174gr RN .(.312")